Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Carb Troubles
Posted by Turpin on 08/09/10 - 5:57 PM
#1
I'm guessing that I have sucked some thrash inside the carb somewhere. 82 Evinrude 35hp mod. E35ECND
The symptoms- when underway at about half way through the run-up (2500 rpms) The motor looses power and will not rev any faster. If you give it more throttle it bog's down worse. You can move the throttle up to the point of just before bogging down (2500 rpms), let it run at that rpm for about 10 secs, push the throttle wide open and for a very brief second it'll give you more rpms then just bog down again. So to me it appears that it is starving for fuel.
Last year I rebuilt the carburetor and fuel pump.
I tried pumping the bulb while underway and it had no effect.
I have taken the carb off and apart twice giving it a good spraying, I have also looked in the pump area again but found nothing there.
Other than buying another rebuild kit for the carb, is there another way to get a good cleaning on that carb.
Also,as a side note. While in neutral if you use the fast idle lever, it'll give you 5200 rpms but I'm guessing it takes more fuel when under a load.
Posted by DWinter on 08/09/10 - 6:03 PM
#2
It does sound like a fuel starvation problem or else you have one cylinder not firing. You can also try the method I explained in the other carb thread.
Edited by DWinter on 08/09/10 - 6:05 PM
Posted by Alan Gracewski on 08/09/10 - 8:06 PM
#3
Fuel is a good thing to check but you may have eliminated the most probable fuel cause in cleaning a dirty carb already. Also check spark advance mechanism to make sure it is functioning. Also, not sure about the 35, but many OMC engines had a cam on the spark advance that pushed the throttle valve open to synchronize with the advance mechanism. The rollers have been known to fall off making the throttle mechanism not open properly. Good luck..always nice to get feedback to learn from...hope to hear what the cause & fix were.
Al
Posted by Turpin on 08/12/10 - 4:03 PM
#4
Well I soaked the carb and gave it good going over. I doubled checked anything else (spark plugs and such), took it to the ramp only to experience the same troubles so now the rig is in route to the local boat mechanic. Hopefully he'll figure something out that doesn't break the bank.
Posted by Guts on 08/12/10 - 8:36 PM
#5
is there any fuel being spit out the intake side of the carburetor? when running.
Posted by Turpin on 08/12/10 - 11:54 PM
#6
No, It is all clean and no spitting. The problem has truely baffled me, the most irritating part is having to drag the boat back and forth to the ramp. The only time the problem shows up is when under a load or normal operating conditions.
Posted by moose on 08/13/10 - 7:04 AM
#7
I had a similar condition with an older 65 hp. Turned out to be cracked coils.
Mike
Posted by Derwd24 on 08/13/10 - 8:00 AM
#8
Mike brings up a great point given your symptoms. The electrical draw of the ignition system is directly proportional to the load on the engine. So if you have a weak "link" in the form of a connection, coil, plug, etc, the time you'll notice it for sure will be when trying to get on plane.
Can't hurt to do a quick check of the electrical, including plugs, wires, ground points, to see if you might come across something.
Posted by Guts on 08/13/10 - 1:01 PM
#9
If you have a bad wire like spark plug or coil wire try running it at night with the the cover off it will stand out like a sore thumb.
Edited by Guts on 08/13/10 - 8:02 PM
Posted by number9 on 08/13/10 - 6:59 PM
#10
Did it run right after the rebuild last year?
Posted by denniscraig on 08/18/10 - 9:44 AM
#11
See if the problem persists at the same level if you use 100% gas without any ethanol.
Posted by Turpin on 08/28/10 - 4:03 PM
#12
Well I took the boat finally after getting it back from the shop. It runs WOT now but is idling at 2k and somewhat rough. If you ease into the throttle, it drops a cylinder until you start getting up in the r.p.m.'s. This is something it definitely was not doing before.
Not sure how you adjust the idle speed on an 82 Evinrude 35hp any ideas.
I turned the lean/rich adjustment but it didn't smooth anything out or help in any useful manor.
So if anyone knows how to adjust the idle, chime in.
Posted by John Fyke on 08/28/10 - 4:54 PM
#13
I had a simiiar problem with my Yamaha 200hp. It was the high pick-up on the carb. Clogged.
Posted by Turpin on 08/30/10 - 5:36 AM
#14
I took the carb back apart and found the mechanic had put a gasket in backwards (bowl to carb gasket) I flip that gasket back to it's proper orientation. I double check everything and put the carb back together. The motor idle about 2200rpms.
Well after toying with the idle adjustment and lean/rich mixture, I've got it idling about 1200rpm's but it still is not idling smoothly. My concerns of having to adjust the idle speed is that there is no way the mechanic adjusted it that high because the idle adjustment screw (plastic) was frozen and had to dug out. So I'm not to sure what caused the idle to be so anyway.
I guess I'll probably use the motor for my winter project and cut this season short.
My next purchase will be a manual and start from scratch as this has gotten ridiculous.
I can't see carrying it back to the mechanic as he sent the supposedly fixed motor out with a backwards gasket and idling at an insane speed granted I do get WOT but at a cost.
Funny thing is, that after I last worked on the carb I was amazed how smooth it ran after having soaked the parts compared to just spraying them out. Now it just runs like crap, maybe that was their warped attempt to get me to trade in.
Posted by Derwd24 on 08/30/10 - 10:19 AM
#15
Sometimes high idle speed can be caused by an air leak in the intake system somewhere. Were you able to inspect the reeds when you had the carb off? Did the mechanic install new carb mount gasket?
Posted by Turpin on 08/30/10 - 11:09 AM
#16
It appears that he did install a new gasket. On a visual inspection the reeds looks fine but I'll probably remove the housing to get a better inspection at some point.
I figure my next trick could also be using propane to try and detect any possible leaks. Used the propane trick before on my truck to locate intake, worked like a champ.
Posted by Derwd24 on 08/30/10 - 1:27 PM
#17
I've heard of using propane but never tried it, worried me a bit. Always used carb cleaner to check for leaks.
Seems your engine has a leaf plate, valve, and stop instead of the usual reed set up. If you can't find any other issues like leaks, etc, it may be worth taking it apart for a close inspection. Replacement parts seem pretty reasonable. Is the engine compression OK?
Posted by Turpin on 01/30/11 - 2:40 PM
#18
Well it has been a long time since I last posted on this issue but it appears to be resolved. I had gotten the boat back from the shop back the in the fall and never got around to firing it up. Today was a good day for it and the boat purred like a kitten. All my earlier problems were gone ( head shake,, dead miss and such). It appears there was a leaking freeze plug on the top of the carb.
I guess everything I did to clean the carb only made the leak worse.