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What is the location for the decals for a 1974 Montauk?

Thanks

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What size did you end up buying?
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=48

NOTE:
By mistake I deleted your other post thinking it was a duplicate.
My error.

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I bought the 14 inch decals. They were seven dollars plus shipping from Twin Cities Marine.

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Bump

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why are you bumping when you said you already got them from twin cities marine?

if you still need decals i suggest using Magic Brush. They were extremely helpful and were very pleasant to deal with.

their website: http://www.magicbrushsign.com/

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Just punch holes outside the lettering to use for registration.
Lay out registration marks in pencil on the hull. Peel off backing and align the holes to the marks and wipe on vinyl logo.
Pencil eraser the marks off.
Location is subjective, what looks good to you or have someone hold the transfers on the boat while you eyeball the perfect spot.
then pencil through the registration holes.
Tom from Rubicon,WI

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Because I was looking for the location on the hull to place the decal. I didn't know if there was a drawing location whaler used or if they just slapped them on and leveled it.

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That is a good suggestion on a preliminary location.

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The bottom of the sled should be 8" below the bottom of the rub rail lip edge and the tail end of the of sled is 13" in from the corner of the transom.

I have found this to be a consistent placement (give and take a 1/4" or so) of the 14" long decals on the 16/17 hulls.

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Is the placement level from the bottom of the boat? I think it would be easier to work from the bottom. I can easily calculate the measurement from the details already given.

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I would zero in on where Jeff suggested. When I apply pressure sensitive decals I always create a "Train wreck" (actually the train wreck look's better) so a good idea (for me) is to use 1 tblsp. of Dawn dish soap per gallon of water. Use "Dawn" dish soap and water in a spray bottle SOAKED on the Hull, hands, fingers, and the sticky side of the decal. Have someone else stand way back to see if the decal straight when you apply it, if it's NOT, all is NOT lost, you can still slide it and still move the decal as long as it's wet and SOAKED with the soap and water solution... The next day everything is dry with "Professional" results !

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I'd go a lot easier on that Dawn, too much and it will never stick... We use a tiny drop and that's enough in a spray bottle... And do not get the solid backing wet, it won't seperate from the decal if you do..
As far as a drawing on the classics, forget it... It was tribal knowledge only known by the guys in assembly... Jeffs info is as reasonable as it gets...

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I did one side using he "wet" method and the other side using this method, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfETao...fETaoSGAfU. I like the method in the youtube video much better. I can't remove the "wet" side until the morning and the "youtube" side has already turned out great.

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You nailed it Matt....good advice.





A tablespoon of Dawn per one gallon of water is too much? Really? Seems like the perfect mix too me.....I've used more that that in less amounts water and have had excellant results.

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The dry youtube method is far better. The wet side had a problem with the "R" in the trademark circle sticking, but since Jeff explained the old stickers didn't have the "R" anyway, I just scrapped them off both sides. Using the tape the place the decals puts them in the right location and they don't have anything contaminating the surface that may be in the water or soap.

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what contaminants are in soap and water ?

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I just measured my 1974 Montauk that still has most of the original decals on her. The bottom of the sled is 8.5 inches below the lower rub rail. I am not sure if my decal is complete or not but the bottom aft slanted edge of the sled is 13.75 inches from the transom edge.


[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v722/Gamalot/Boat/100_0541.jpg[/IMG]

Gary

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modenacart,

Where did Jeff say that the old sticker didn't have the "®" ??????

We certainly don't want to confuse anyone here.
There may be some early ones that didn't have the ® but at this time we would need to know exactly what years they didn't have the ® before we just made a blank statement.

Maybe we can narrow this down further to find out what year the ® started showing up.

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Joe,

He stated it in the thread that got deleted by accident.

Gamalot, Thanks for providing the picture and location. I placed mine about 8.25 inches below and about 13.25 inches from the aft edge.

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Pick up your local water report and see what is in the water. Tap water is not plain H2O. Plus anything that may be in the spray bottle.

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There is no evidence that I can see of an R ever having been on either side of mine. It was built July 25, 1974.

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Here is the thread that disappeared....I still had the page open on my other machine and saved it (screen grabs) when it was all the sudden gone. I emailed the admins on 7/29 about it's strange disappearance.
https://sites.google.com/site/rohlfin...C2post.jpg
Link in thread to images of Decals.
http://tinyurl.com/38cq2qs

I still hold that the pre 1976 Hulls did not have the ® in the logo.

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There is nothing with can do with posts that are gone or missing in action.

Time to let it go and get over it.....
I responded to you during that time frame and suggested to you that it would be best to create an article on this subject which is much better in the long run rather than any post, including this one, that is going to get buried in the more than 65,000 posts that we already have on this site.

That's fine that you still hold something to be true.
We just need more evidence to confirm something to be factual rather than just one opinion.

Out of all the photos I have of my prior 1978 Montauk, I cannot tell if it had the ® or not due to the trailers side bunks and no closeup photos of it in the water where the ® would show.

For now we will "Assume" that 1975 models did not have the ® and the 1976 models and above had the ®.....
If anyone else can confirm whether they have the original ® or not please post that info here so we can see if there is a pattern that will define the start of the ® on the decals.

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Joe, I am over the deleted thread. I just do not understand why you still claim even in your post earlier today I had never made such a claim. You basically outright disputed my belief that there was ever a logo without the ®. You claimed that it if a Whaler had a logo without one, it must not have been present because they had been "worn off". So, your statement of earlier in the thread of "Where did Jeff say that the old sticker didn't have the "®" ??????" seems strange...

I truly believe from what I have seen that 1975 into 1976 was the change over for the logos with ®. I do not know when the exact change over is. Looking through the catalogs tonight the very first time you clearly see a ® on any logo is in the 1979 catalog on page 4 with new V-22 Outrage. You can also see it for the first time on the V-20 Outrage image, 21 & 19 Revenge, Newport, 17 sport, 13 Sport, Sport 11, 9 Tender. The only time before that I saw was, there looks like there could be one on the 9 Tender on page 3 of the 1977 catalog but it is just a blurry spec if there is one. If anyone can find one before that please direct us to it.

Know we all know the catalog images are not reliable sources for data on exact dating of model changes. The photography of the boats was often used year after year and at times even after there was a change of some sort. But, I think we can all agree the images in Tom's set are not doctored in anyway so, there are images from Whaler showing their boats with logo minus the ®.

So, there was a logo without ® used for many years. Lets figure out an approximate change over date if we can. I am 99.9% certain my 1975 13 had it's true factory installed Decal without it. Larry's 1975 19 for certain has it's true factory installed Decal without it. I am 99.9% certain my 1976 17 Newport has it's true factory installed Decal with it.

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Jeff,

It is not posted in this thread so that is why I asked where you said it here.... You didn't....
You seem to be bringing things up that no longer exist here in these forums.

I also don't see where I ever said that all decals had the ® ...
Some early decals didn't.
Some that did have the ® might also have been worn or rubbed off.
Lots of things can happen.


No, you don't seem to be reading "THIS" entire post properly.
Stick to this post or everyone here will be lost and I may have to delete this post too if it gets too obscure.

Please stick to this post and not to ones that had been deleted for whatever reason.

So, it wasn't strange at all. It was deleted and you seem to be the only one that ever complained about it.

To everyone else,
The post or thread that was deleted was part of a double post by "someone"???
A member that posted the same question twice, usually by accident, is a double posting....
All duplicate posts or threads will be corrected by deleting one of the posts.
I deleted one of the double posts but accidentally deleted the one with comments instead of the one without comments unfortunately.
However, the post is gone and it's done.

Anymore on that subject here and I will have no choice but to delete some of the posts above here.
It's getting ridiculous.

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I've worked for the water dept. in "Purification and Operations", for 22 years, there is "NOTHING" in a municiple water supply that could possibly affect a decal !

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No kidding. I've been drinking water from the water department for more than 44 years and I'm okay.....well except for this little tick that hits me once in a while. Aside from that, I'm good!! ;-).

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Lots of discussions on this subject at my Audiophile forums. Those who still spin Vinyl albums also wash them. Plain tap water, even from wells will leave contaminants.

We use distilled water and Photo Flo when rinsing to avoid a film on the records.

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The first drawing that I have that officially has the registration mark was done in 1978, the 18" size. Can't say for sure anything before that, but I suspect it started in that time frame of 77-78....
And don't make too much about the soap issue, all I said was to be careful with it, too much is not good and it can make an easy job impossible. Nuff said.

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After looking deeper in the catalogs the first image of the ® in the hull decal was on page 33 of the 1977 Accessories catalog where they show a shot of what looks to be a replacement decal.

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"Distillation" of water only removes "Salts" and "Solids" not toxins or surficants if present. "De-ionized" water is the purest that you can get.

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Unless you are the OEM for the stickers, I don't think you are qualified to state whatever minerals in water may interact with the decals unless you have done extensive study. Why add an unknown if you don't have to.

You can use water all you want, I don't care. I am not going to use the wet method anymore, it caused the "R" not to stick on my decal.

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Unless you're a licensed water treatment operator by the state Board of Health, you're definately not qualified to be making any public statements about contaminants found in the public's drinking water.

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I have made no such comments that drinking tap water will have ill effects to people's health. I am not sure what being a licensed water treatment operator has to do with using water on decals, maybe you can enlighten me. To assume that since water is ok to drink, therefore it must be good for decals is foolish.

I

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Man, this thread is killing me!! Hahaha. I just busted a gut reading this stuff.

Who cares man!! Tap water is fine to use for decal placement. I used way more than a teaspoon of Dawn in a bucket of water from the hose. I had Noooooo problem with the R falling away nor did I have any issues with the decals not adhering to the boat or any grit either. That was three years ago and the decals look great!!!

Man, you guys are killin' me. Lol.

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This post is still up? People, get over it.

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This post seems to have gone from the original question of
"Location for Decals, 1974 Montauk" to:
1. Which decals have the ®
2. What Water to use to put the decals on with
3. How much and what type of Soap to use to apply the decals
4. My post was deleted and I don't know why

It appears we just don't have enough input from the members here on the location of decals.
I recall another thread where we asked for more input so we could created an article on this subject..
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...rowstart=0
Without input however, we can't reliably compare information.

From other information that we have gathered in the past, here is the location of a couple of different size decals.

1. Gamalot - 1974 Montauk with 14 inch decals and NO ®.
8 1/2 inches below gunwale lip to bottom of sled
13 3/4 inches from transom to back of sled
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...post_69105

2. Jeff -- 1976 Newport with 14 inch decal and NO ®
8 inches below gunwale lip to bottom of sled
13 inches from transom to back of sled
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...post_65942

3. Guts - 1981 Montauk 17' with 28" decals with the ®.
8 1/2 inches below gunwale lip to bottom of sled
13 3/4 inches from transom to back of sled
http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...post_47769

4. Joe Kriz - 1985 Outrage 18' with 28" decals with the ®.
10 inches below gunwale lip to bottom of sled
10 inches from transom to back of sled

If anyone has any other information to add to the list above, let us know.
If there are any mistakes above, let us know.

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Maybe if we change the subject to Cocktails we would all be more loving.

My water up here in the NY Catskills is about as clear, cold and tasty as it comes but you could probably weld with it from all the iron.

It is pretty funny though so I hope Joe can see the humor and let it flow a while longer.

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Sorry Joe, The decal on my 1974 Montauk is absolutely 14 inches front to back.

I don't really care about the water, soap, contaminants or other BS here because it has been there for 36 years and doing just fine.

I'm just stating the facts the best I can with a 1974 Montauk sitting in my driveway and I think about as original as they came.

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Gamalot,

No problem. I will change it above to read 14 inches on a 1974 Montauk.

Guts decal size seems to be 28 inches for a 1981 16/17' model.

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My measurements are from my 1976 Newport with a 14" logo. These measurements were with a 1/8" - 1/4" of what I measured on a 1969 and 1970 Currituck as well. When I measured down I am taking the measurement from the bottom of the rubrail lip edge of the hull itself and not the rubrail itself. Measuring from the rubrail introduces a variable as there were different rubrails used through the years in different sizes on the 16/17 foot hulls depending on the model. The bottom of the lip edge of the hull was a constant.

The best way I can describe what I am calling the rubrail lip edge is, it is the surface that turns from the rubrail mounting surface back up into an up-side-down U then transitions to the hull side.

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Thanks for bringing that up Jeff.

Yes, under the gunwale lip of the hull where the rub rail attaches to.

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I think this is what you mean and it is how I measured.

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v722/Gamalot/Boat/100_0544.jpg[/IMG]

Gary

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Yes...Perfect Illustration.

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It looks like the decal was slanted upwards in the front.

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Good eye there! Very slight tilt upward in the front. I get 8.5" at the rear of the runner and 8.25" at the froward end before it curves. It is 13 3/4" from the transom but I think my decal is missing a slight clip right at the end so 13 1/2" may be closer to exact.

I would bet they had some sort of guide template to get them pretty close but there could have been some play room that might explain the slight differences we are all reporting. I would go with Jeff's numbers and the only thing I can think that would look real bad is to have the front slanted slightly down.

Gary

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Do most of them have a tilt upward in the front?

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I don't think so.

I have one that is straight and one that is slightly tipped up in front.
I think it just depended on who put it on and which day of the week or how much hurry they were in...

How many people that you know have a good eye for things being straight when they put something on? Only to find out later it is crooked.....

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That is one more reason I used a tape measure and the dry method in the youtube video.