Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by Marty Johns Isd SC on 07/26/10 - 9:27 AM

Hey All, I just changed my lower end oil and it was slightly milky looking. I change both plastic "O" rings on the plugs every year too. Just wondered how bad this is when a little water gets into the foot? At least I guess it is water? Is this an expensive fix? My engine is a 2001 Johnson 90 hp two stroke. Thanks for any help!
Marty Durham

Posted by Jeff on 07/26/10 - 9:58 AM

First off it is bad to have any water in the lower unit gear lube. Especially in climates that are subject to freezing weather as the water will freeze and crack the case. That said any amount of water great begins to decrease the effectiveness of the oil's lubrication. The greater the water/oil ratio the greater the expected impeding damage.

It is likely seal around your propeller shaft has failed and is the cause of this. It is a common repair. This is often caused by getting fishing line wrapped around the prop shaft at some time.

Posted by mattgeiger on 07/26/10 - 10:12 AM

No one is going to say that water in there doesn't hurt. Short-term fix, you can change the oil more often if you're getting a little water in there. Eventually you'll want to pressure test and repair it right. I had my guy test it and ended up needing exhaust seals. He did those while he was putting in a new impeller and disconnecting my vro. $210 for all of it - parts included. Yes, my guy is a bargain.

Posted by Derwd24 on 07/26/10 - 10:13 AM

You may also want to check the main shaft seals below the water pump, seen a few of those go bad too, and replacing them all is easy insurance against future problems.

Do you have a way to pressure test the gearcase to locate the leak?

Posted by whalerman on 07/26/10 - 10:37 AM

Need to pressure and vaccuum test to be sure gear box is leak proof, for at least 15 mins. each.

Edited by whalerman on 07/26/10 - 10:37 AM

Posted by tommy mc on 07/26/10 - 10:47 AM

had a little water in my lube at end-of -last year closeup. looked slightly milky. let it sit over the winter in a jar and it sepoerated to be about 1/2" deep in a 8" deep jar. a little is a lot. had all the seals replaced and through the water pump in for good measure. $500

Posted by DWinter on 07/26/10 - 5:49 PM

One reason I recommend synthetic lower unit fluid is it retains more lubrication capabilities if there's any problems with water intrusion. I'd recommend refilling with it, if you haven't already, then after your next outing, Let it sit for a few days, then pull the bottom drain plug and see how much water drains. That way when you pull the drain plug, you can tell how bad it is since the water will be separated from the oil and will drain first. Inspect the fluid it and go from there. I'd also pull the prop and verify there isn't any fishing line wrapped around the shaft and cutting into the seal. Hopefully you've already fixed the problem with the new fiber washers on th drain plug.

Posted by modenacart on 07/27/10 - 1:08 PM

I would take the prop off every year and look for fishing line wrapped around the shaft near the seal and get it off. Fishing line is one of the leading causes for that seal failure.

Posted by MW on 07/27/10 - 1:38 PM

As everyone has stated, It's important to pull the prop off at the end of the season and inspect for fishing line entanglement, and check the seals. I also put a wipe of grease (I use synthetic as well) on the spline shaft before putting the prop back on. Taking the prop off, greasing, and inspecting is also important so that the prop and spline don't become "ONE".

Posted by Marty Johns Isd SC on 07/27/10 - 2:32 PM

#10

Thankyou Everyone for your help!!!! I knew you fellas would have the answers to help me out. Thanks again!!!
Marty Durham

Posted by number9 on 07/27/10 - 7:13 PM

#11

Worst case scenario?

Possibly inspect prop shaft for line and static leakage. If no leak found change the lube and check after several hours use.