Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Drain Tube O-Ring

Posted by pjred71 on 01/23/07 - 1:05 PM
#1

Is there any way to repair this without replacing the drain tube? (Great info on the site on replacing) Should I be concerned about water in the transom? I just purchased the boat and have no way of telling how long these have been like this. Please see the attached pic.

http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w6...CN1109.jpg

Edited by pjred71 on 01/23/07 - 1:06 PM

Posted by Tom W Clark on 01/23/07 - 1:11 PM
#2

You should replace all your drain tubes and O-rings. It is not difficult.

This article should give you a good overview of the process:

http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=42

[added www. to the url]

Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/23/07 - 1:28 PM

Posted by pjred71 on 01/23/07 - 1:46 PM
#3

What is the best way to get the tubes out without damaging the gelcoat?

Posted by Joe Kriz on 01/23/07 - 2:51 PM
#4

As old as your drain tubes appear to be, I would just use a small to medium size flathead screwdriver and start collapsing the tube inward on one end only. It shouldn't take too much to collapse the tube sort of uniformly inward. Then pull the tube out from the other end.

Posted by pjred71 on 01/23/07 - 6:51 PM
#5

Thanks both Joe and Tom. On closer inspection, all the drain tubes look shot. No flanges on the inside. I will definitely replace all of them.

Posted by Tom W Clark on 01/24/07 - 5:11 AM
#6

You may also find this article informative:

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/...09805.html

Posted by Jeff on 01/24/07 - 6:31 AM
#7

Tom, I love all of derf's dead image links in that post. Glad your pictures are still there.

Joe,

The screw driver seems like it would work.

I was going to use a dermal tool with cutoff wheel and cut the drain tube in 2 inside the tube itself, then pull each end out. Has anyone done it this way? Thanks to the freshwater my tubes are in really good condition.

Edited by Jeff on 01/24/07 - 6:39 AM

Posted by Joe Kriz on 01/24/07 - 9:42 AM
#8

Jeff,

That is a great idea and would work just fine.

It depends on what shape the tube is in to begin with. Some tubes you can pull apart with your fingers...

I sometimes use a hacksaw and just make a small cut on one of the lips on the edge only. Then using a screwdriver or chisel, start pounding it inwards right there and the tube starts splitting.

Lots of different ways to do it. Again, depending on the condition of the tube to begin with.
I have even taken out new tubes that I put in which I wasn't happy with using just the screwdriver method... Wasn't nearly as easy doing this to a new tube as it was with an older tube.

About DEAD LINKS....
Yes, that is why it is better not to post a link to other peoples photos because most of the time their links are either dead or they have changed. How many times have we found that to be true.

I have added a couple more of Tom's photos to the article on this site. That way the photo links will not go DEAD....
http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=42

Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/24/07 - 12:03 PM

Posted by pjred71 on 01/24/07 - 2:25 PM
#9

Got after the splashwell tubes with a screwdriver. They were so corroded they just pushed right out.



http://i173.photobucket.com/albums/w6...intube.jpg

Posted by Jeff on 01/24/07 - 2:47 PM
#10

YIKES! Got intrusion?

What boat are these from?

Posted by Joe Kriz on 01/24/07 - 4:06 PM
#11

pjred71,

That is a great example of why everyone should check their drain tubes periodically.

Use a flashlight to look into the drain tube. Also, put you finger in their and carefully feel for any cracks or splits.

Thanks for the photo.

Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/24/07 - 4:06 PM

Posted by pjred71 on 01/24/07 - 4:23 PM
#12

These tubes are from an '89 Outrage I recently purchased (only two splashwell tubes). Not sure about water intrusion. Short of pulling up the deck or a float test how would I tell?

My plan is to refurbish the obvious, run her for a season and do further refurbs or mods from there. This is my first Whaler. Click on the link to see what I am starting with.

http://s173.photobucket.com/albums/w6...1/Outrage/

Edited by pjred71 on 01/24/07 - 4:30 PM

Posted by JMartin on 01/24/07 - 4:37 PM
#13

You can weigh the boat. Post back on the weight. Give the make, model, of motor, trailer, amount of gas on board. The experts will know what it should weigh. Or, just replace the tubes and go boating. John

Posted by Joe Kriz on 01/24/07 - 6:07 PM
#14

pjred,

Just for reference, what you call that "Funky Fuel line setup" is actually the original Fuel Manifold for the Outrage 18 models. The manifold allowed the supply of fuel to twin engines. Notice the plug fitting on the right of your photo. That would be for the other engine if the boat had twin engines or even a kicker for that matter.

There is a photo in the OEM Photo section here:
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...?photo=296

Posted by pjred71 on 01/24/07 - 7:39 PM
#15

wow, I am surprised that is OEM. It was not secured anywhere, it looks pretty awkward and I assumed it was a previous owner's effort to supply twin engines or possibly a kicker.
Like you, I will remove and route through the fuel/water separator. Thanks for the info!

Posted by Joe Kriz on 01/24/07 - 7:52 PM
#16

Yeah, I thought it was kind of awkward myself.
Apparently they put this manifold in not knowing where the owner would place the fuel/water separator(s) or even if the owner was going to install one.

I did remove mine and just used the two outlets out of the single fuel/water separator.
The separator works just fine for both my main and kicker engines.