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Adding Commercial Rub Rail? - Restoration Phase II
Well, the time has come. My original plan 2 years ago was to make my Montauk a "Clean Original" - meaning keeping the worn cushions, cracked cooler, the scratched hull & engine decals, and the brushed and cracked rub rail. I wanted an original boat as clean as possible. I have that and now I get plenty of positive comments from everyone who sees it - online, gas stations, on the road, on the water - everywhere.
After dabbling with the idea of a beater Outrage 22 I found, and even attempting to negotiate a deal on a new Everglades 223, I have settled down and realized my Montauk should stick around for many of the reasons people love their Montauks - fits garage, ease of towing, ease of 1-man launching, easy on gas, etc.
So now I want to make it better. it's time to take my restoration to the next step. New cushions - RPS, rod rack, cooler and bow - Specialty marine will handle that. I'll be ordering new black 28" logo decals from Magic Brush. Adding a stereo. New cooler - probably a 72 so its easier to walk around. Respray the motor cover and update the Johnson decals. Finally - I would love to add a commercial rub rail.
Has anyone swapped over to a commercial rub rail? Is it a pain? Any more trouble than a standard rub rail replacement?
When we installed them at the factory they would put them in a large oven to soften them up. when I put one on my 16' I put the rubrail in a large black trashbag and let it sit in the sun to heat it up. Get somebody to help you put it on the gunnel and tape it there. Use 5200 and either rivet or use stainless screws to secure it. If you heat it up it will go on much better. It's like trying to wrestle an anaconda. Good luck, Tom from mass.
We would put a bead all along the gunnel. Use heavy screws and don't over tighten them, the glass isn't all that thick. We had a boat come back several month's later with heavy damage from a accident and had to use a forklift to pull the rubrail off and the boat was tied to the wall and that was after we took the screws off. It even took some gelcoat off. Try to put the bead of 5200 along the line where the screws go to seal the holes. The insert is like a thin garden hose and gets hammered in with a plastic hammer preferably. Then I simply tucked the insert on the back of the boat with a screw. there are end caps that screw in at the end of the gunnel that hold the insert from shrinking and give a more finished look.
Let us know what rub rail you choose (post part#'s etc). I did significant damage to my rubrail (recieiver and insert) last fall and need something much beefier for my boat.
Edited by Phil T on 03/02/10 - 12:48 PM
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
Matt- I installed a rubrail on the Minitauk (15 foot center console) I had before the Menemsha. I bought it at West Marine for around $250 (I think it was on clearance, and this was many years ago). It was really tough to install by myself. I soaked the rubrail in hot soapy water to soften it, and make the insert "slip in" easier. I fastened it with stainless screws and backed the screws with 5200, put a bead of marine silicon caulk along the gunnel as well (didn't want to use 5200 for fear of never being able to remove it without taking gelcoat). I installed it in one day, and the blisters on my thumbs lasted for two weeks. I learned a couple of things, the most important being next time I'll pay someone to do it! The hot water in a bucket did soften the rail, but made it hard to grip with wet hands.
Guys be carefull with the 5200. While I love the stuff, I recommend Life Caulk or 4200 on items that may have to be removed. 5200 will hold with enough strength that if you ever try to remove the rub rail, you'll ring off half the screw heads. Whaler actually uses sikaflex if I remember correctly but thats not readily available. And yes, "been there done that" on the screws and 5200. What a mess.
