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trailer for 1966 restored 13' Whaler?
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| jenkins913 |
Posted on 10/15/09 - 6:37 PM
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Trying to decide what to do about a trailer for a 1966 13' restored Whaler we recently acquired. Current trailer isn't a good fit. Have read the pros and cons between a roller-bunk trailer and a "floater" trailer and feel inclined to get the former---we'll be trailing it with every use; various lakes with various ramp styles. One problem is that the bow eye is higher than usual, post restoration. In case we have to go with a new trailer, would lappreciate recommendations for specific trailer brands. Local marina is recommending a
y shaped floater trailer modified with keel rollers added. Also thinking about jury rigging current trailer for less $$
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| MW |
Posted on 10/16/09 - 1:50 AM
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compare the cost of "Retro-fitting" the current trailer to the cost of the "New" trailer, if it's close, get the new trailer. If you are going to cover some distance trailering, I'd get the new trailer, the last thing anybody want's is a trailer problem on the side of the road, I would add "Bearing Buddy's" to either trailer for some extra protection on the road as well.
Edited by MW on 10/16/09 - 1:50 AM
Matt |
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| CES |
Posted on 10/16/09 - 4:19 AM
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Jenkina913, Welcome aboard to Whaler Central!!
I was in the same situation as you with a trailer for my 1966 13'. I should have just spent the extra cash up front and bought a new trailer to begin with.
I found the trailer I have now from a Craigslist AD here in Dallas, Texas. I spent about $175 for the trailer as I felt it was in pretty good shape and worth fixing up. I brought the trailer home and that's when the expenses started shooting skyward. Since I frequently travel long distance with the Whaler in tow, I went ahead and put new bunks, lights, tires, bearings, bearing buddies, winch and new leaf springs on it. Once I did the math, it would have been less expensive to go ahead and buy a new road worthy trailer to begin with. Since the trailer rebuild, I've towed the trailer from Dallas to South Florida, two times to Atlanta and once to south Texas and it has held up well.
In hindsight a new trailer would have been a less expensive option for me.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| LabCab |
Posted on 10/16/09 - 1:29 PM
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Try going to www.shorelandr.com and go to the "trailer finder" tool. You will have to enter your boat as a 2001 13 Sport and the tool will show you two suggested trailers. The one with the keel rollers and two side bunks is the typical Whaler 13 trailer that came with the boat. Many manufacturers will make a similar model but use the specs given as a guide. A dealer near me has a galvanized trailer new for $750. It has 8" wheels though and I would want to change them to 12". I'm fixing up the trailer that came with my boat and I'll probably have $400 in it when I'm done.
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| MW |
Posted on 10/17/09 - 6:08 AM
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Yea, if you're going over the road, or "HWY" distance's you'll need larger 12" wheel's. The 8" wheel's (like I have) are for moving a boat just a few miles down the road at 30-40 mph. They're good for launching (low to the ground) but, They'll "sing" like a "Banshee", over a long distance at 55 mph+ and eventually Fail (the RPM's can't keep up with the larger tow car's tires).
Matt |
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| jenkins913 |
Posted on 10/18/09 - 5:49 AM
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Thank you for your tips---very helpful! We're leaning towards a new trailer. I'll check out that Shorelander website.
We read a couple of articles on the website Continuous Wave about the different kind of trailers. They scared me off from a "floater" trailer a bit although the two dealers we've talked to so far both recommends that. One would rig the bunk/floater trailer with extra rollers along the keel.
My concerns are these; maybe you all could comment on them: 1. It sounds like, with a floater trailer, you have to put the trailer deeper in the water. Our towing vehicle (a Volvo wagon) might have to go into the water too. We are not planning to put the boat into salt water, so we won't be dealing with tides. The article says, if you don't power load, the boat doesn't necessarily fall centered on the trailer as you pull the boat out of the water and it can take repeated tries to get it aligned properly. 2. Because the boat would travel lower to the ground, the motor has to be tilted. Besides the extra hassle in that, the articles say this makes the the motor rock on the transom.
We'll mostly tow the boat within 60 miles of home, including highway driving. I'll be sure to ask about the size of the wheels thanks to your good tips. Thanks again
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| kamie |
Posted on 10/18/09 - 7:15 AM
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Go with the one that will add keel rollers. The boat should be resting on the rollers with the bunks to add stability. there is no need to powerload, if the trailer is setup correctly the boat will track straight up the center. On my 18, I hook the strap to the bow eye, push the boat out to the end of the winch strap and crank like hell. the boat tracks straight up the center of the trailer. You should be able to do the same with a 13. After you do it about 4 or 5 times, you can load the boat onto the trailer in 60 seconds or less. Most outboards have to be tilted unless you have a really high trailer.
New vs rebuilding, the new wins hands down. It's cheaper and less hassle in the long run.
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| MW |
Posted on 10/18/09 - 8:30 AM
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One of the "BIG" advantages to the 13' is that it trailers easily, it launches and retrieves with "Little" Hassel, a Volvo wagon can tow it 'All Day", with plenty of "Pull" left over to get it up the ramp.
Matt |
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| CES |
Posted on 10/18/09 - 8:33 AM
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And remeber, the boat is ONLY a 13'. There won't be a whole lot of weight to deal with. If you have 8" tires on your trailer, so what. As you said, you're only towing the boat 60 miles from the house max. The 8" tires I have on my trailer do well. From Dallas Texas I've travelled to north Georgia twice, south Florida once and south Texas once without any major problems at all. If you're only going 60 miles from the house, as long as you keep the bearings greased, tires inspected and inflated properly you should be fine. Also if you're only using it in fresh water, I wouldn't worry to much about dipping the rear tires of your car in the water too much. I dip the rear of my vehicle in the fresh water all the time.
Edited by CES on 10/18/09 - 2:07 PM
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| jenkins913 |
Posted on 10/18/09 - 4:38 PM
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Thank you again! You've helped us make a good decision.
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