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Trailer Bearings
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| MW |
Posted on 08/30/09 - 2:55 AM
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Is it better to check the bearing's every year and re-pack, or is it better to put the "Bearing Buddy's" on and just grease regularly, the trailer only get's used 2x a year "splash in" and "Retrieval" for the season.
Also my favorite boat store (that always has good stuff) sold me bearing's that have "CHINA" proudly displayed on them. I was dissappointed when I opened the package at home (Joe's post of "make sure the bearing's are made in the USA" raced into my head), should I use these bearings ? throw 'em in the garbage ? replace next year with quality "Timkin" bearing's like I took out ? I need "Guidance" from the "Trailer guys".
Thank's !
Matt |
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| Guts |
Posted on 08/30/09 - 4:46 AM
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Once the ["Bearing Buddy's"] are on and full of grease with no leaks there's no need to grease them.. you will just blow out the seals.
adding this;
easy way to tell if the bearings are worn or need adjustment.put you hand on top of the tire and push the trailer side to side you will feel a clunk if the wheel bearing is lose due to ware.
Edited by Guts on 08/30/09 - 5:52 AM |
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| CES |
Posted on 08/30/09 - 5:14 AM
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Hey Matt.
Yep, I know the feeling when you look at the side of some new bearings and "China" is written all over them. I feel bad when I see something like that because my step-dad has worked his tail off in a ball bearing plant in North Georgia for 30+ years.
Anyway, Bearing buddies will certainly help you when it comes to keeping your bearings greased. There's no sense in getting new bearings for your trailer if you're using the trailer as infrequently as you do.
Jack-up one side of your trailer up and spin the tire. If you hear any binding, grinding, scratching or crumpling...go ahead and replace the bearings and race's. If you don't hear anything while spinning the wheels, go ahead and install a set of bearing buddies and you should be fine.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| JohnnyCW |
Posted on 08/30/09 - 6:06 AM
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Another suggestion I have is when you do pull the trailer, occasionally feel each hub with your hand if you stop at a store or for fuel after at least a few miles. If any hub is more than slightly warm to the touch, I'd consider service ASAP.
IMO, the most common failure is the seals. Unfortunately they are prone to deterioration over time regardless of use. Once the seals fail, they allow moisture intrusion into the hub and problems start there-after. Try and inspect the backs of the hubs for any signs of thrown grease which could indicate failing seals.
As already mentioned, be careful not to over grease the Bearing Buddies. I've seen too many folks blow the hub seals that way.
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| whalerman |
Posted on 08/30/09 - 7:28 AM
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Hi, all very good points on the issue of bearings. I've been useing "timken" bearings for 30+ yrs., very good quality and USA made. Use a good quality grease thats as water proof as you can get. Good luck and have trouble free trailering!!
THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 08/30/09 - 8:40 AM
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Keep in mind that the bearing buddies don't actually deliver grease to the bearings, they keep a positive pressure applied inside the hub so that water doesn't get sucked in when the warm hub is backed into cold water and the pressure inside drops.
A good test is to jack up the wheel and spin it. When the grease has thinned due to water infiltration, there'll be a kind of "rumble" for lack of a better word, indicating a repacking is necessary. When the grease is good, the wheel spins a lot more quietly.
So before you pull it apart to swap everything out, give the wheel a spin and see if you can notice the rumble. Then do it again after the new bearings are installed and packed with fresh grease, and see if you can notice the difference in sound when you spin the wheel. Once you hear/experience the difference, you'll be able to check by spinning the wheel in the future.
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| JohnnyCW |
Posted on 08/30/09 - 3:13 PM
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I have a high quality Rolls trailer with Spindle-Lube axles. The spindles are actually drilled through longitudinally with a Zerk fitting on the outboard end and the other end of the passage exits the spindle between the inboard bearing and hub seal. When you grease the Zerk, it delivers the grease through the passage directly between the hub seal and inner bearing. The hub just has a rubber cap.
The system avoids blowing out the hub seals and delivers fresh grease from through inner bearing then through the outer bearing while forcing old grease back out the outboard end where it can be collected and discarded. Its not a pressurized system like Bearing Buddies. Applying fresh grease is basically repacking the bearings without disassembly. Super quick and easy.
I've been a big fan of them since buying the trailer about 11 years ago.
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| FASTFJR |
Posted on 08/30/09 - 3:41 PM
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JohnnyCW wrote:
I have a high quality Rolls trailer with Spindle-Lube axles. The spindles are actually drilled through longitudinally with a Zerk fitting on the outboard end and the other end of the passage exits the spindle between the inboard bearing and hub seal. When you grease the Zerk, it delivers the grease through the passage directly between the hub seal and inner bearing. The hub just has a rubber cap.
The system avoids blowing out the hub seals and delivers fresh grease from through inner bearing then through the outer bearing while forcing old grease back out the outboard end where it can be collected and discarded. Its not a pressurized system like Bearing Buddies. Applying fresh grease is basically repacking the bearings without disassembly. Super quick and easy.
I've been a big fan of them since buying the trailer about 11 years ago.
I've had them on my last 3 trailers and also think they are the best out there
2007 Dauntless 180-2007 Mercury Verado 150 |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 08/30/09 - 3:55 PM
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Same here, they're great! At the end of the season, I jack each wheel and spin it slowly while pumping the grease gun, and when I see the consistency of the grease coming out the cap change from old to new (thicker), I know that wheel is done and ready for the winter/next season.
Still repack manually every 3 years or so in order to change the rear seal and check overall condition of rollers and races, etc. Nothing worse then having a bearing issue on the road.
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| JohnnyCW |
Posted on 08/30/09 - 7:05 PM
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Derwd24 wrote:Still repack manually every 3 years or so in order to change the rear seal and check overall condition of rollers and races, etc. Nothing worse then having a bearing issue on the road.
No doubt. The system eases maintenance requirements but doesn't do away with it. Properly maintained bearings will not only help make for a more enjoyable boating experience, its a safety issue for the boat owner as well as anyone else sharing the road.
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| MW |
Posted on 08/31/09 - 3:27 AM
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Thank's for the help guy's, the plan is to put in the (I even hate to say it) "Chinese" bearing's, and "Bearing Buddy's" (had the "B.B" before), and not to pump the bearing buddies w/ grease. I read that if I just fill them with grease, this will avoid blowing out the seal. Thank's again, that's 2 "Main" project's that were "Buggin" me that were put to bed by "W/C" (did the rotting drain tubes this year too).
Matt |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 08/31/09 - 8:06 AM
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The bearing buddies are actually spring loaded, you can see the spring around the inner part of the bearing buddy hub. As you pump the grease in, the part with the grease fitting moves out towards you as the buddy fills with grease, and you can see the spring compressing as this happens.
I think if you pump enough so it gets to the point where the spring is compressed and then stop, you'll have protection in the form of positive pressure in the hub, but not develop enough pressure to blow out the new seal. The risk is when guys keep pumping grease in after the spring has compressed, then the pressure in the hub spikes and the rear seal is at risk....
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| jb4146 |
Posted on 08/31/09 - 10:06 AM
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My BB's - actually a different brand - have a small pressure relief hole through the casing near the outside edge. If you pump enough grease in to move the piston near the end of it's allowable travel, the hole is exposed to internal pressure and the grease will push out through the hole until enough grease is released to allow piston travel back in to cover the hole. It seems to work well. I'm only in my first season with these though. I am also wrestling with whether or not to inspect/re-pack this winter. I launch/retrieve (freshwater) with every use. With only a few hundred yards to the ramp, the hubs are lways cold when dunked. I have read elsewhere that hubs that are "normal" warm from on-road use will tend to draw cold water in to them when dunked, not sure if that theory is correct.
Also, I always use the rubberized plastic dust covers to keep the zerc fitting and springs clean. Sun exposure turns them discolored and tacky after a few months, but replacement caps are cheap. The cap also covers the weep hole.
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| MW |
Posted on 09/14/09 - 8:49 AM
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My bearing project was completed in the driveway, I never did it before, now I know how, a BIG "THANK-YOU" to W/C and it's members for guiding me through it ! One less thing to worry about ! If "I" can do it, ANYONE can !
Matt |
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| CES |
Posted on 09/14/09 - 12:58 PM
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See Matt? Trailer bearings are pretty easy to tackle.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| captaincurt |
Posted on 09/14/09 - 4:17 PM
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Congradulations ! Whats next ? Main engine bearings LOL
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