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Dauntless 16 Questions (steering and self Bailing)
First I replaced the steering cable system with a Baystar hydraulic kit because the cable steering was really tough to turn... IN replacing it I'm finding that its easier to turn now, but its not nearly as easy as my buddies boat, he as a 20 foot Sea Pro with the same 115 engine on his, and I can turn his with my pinky finger! I've bled the system a few times and all the air is out, but why is it not as easy as his? Any thoughts? I'm thinking about taking it to the dealer to see if they can make it even easier!
Second question, I have a self bailing cockpit, its the first time I've had this, but my same buddy has one on his Sea Pro... in his boat we can both stand in back and no water comes in, but on my Whaler the water just comes right through... is there something wrong or a part that I need to replace or is this just normal for the boat.
Good morning Vettenorlando regarding your steering, check and see or observe when turning the motor from left to right if there is any binding occurring. Double check that the hydraulic steering cylinder was indeed mounted level, if there is a slight twist when in operation you might feel a resistance or stiffness at the helm. Now regarding the water intrussion into the cockpit area, check your scuppers on the outside of the transom. Are the rubber flaps intact or missing? If you have the ball type, check for small debris that might hang the ball up. I have a '96 Dauntless 15 with the ball type scuppers, with my hull the scupper locations were designed to close to the water line so on occassions I will see some water in the cockpit. I had understood with your hull design that issue was addressed and the scuppers were raised a bit. Any how, I hope this helps...
Dose the outboard move easy without the hydraulic hooked up? It should work without kinks or catches when turning. Grease the pivot point (the shaft the outboard pivots on) That's where I would look. Every thing should work smooth.
As for the steering I actually called baystar about it and they think the helm might be faulty, they had produced some apparently that weren't quite right. I am going to take the boat out this weekend and do some tests that they suggested and I'll let you know what they tell me.
As for the rubber flaps, they are intact, I think they are just flaps and not balls but I will double check. I only get water when there's two people in the back of the boat... I just wasn't sure if that was normal.
Hi, I have a 95 Dauntless, and have the same problem with the water coming in, even if I stand by myself. Now, I am 270 lbs, and my motor is a 50 Merc, so that is a lot of load.
There are no rubber flaps that I can see, but there is something in the drains, because I can hear a "click click click" as the water comes in.
I presume it is the Ball Valve that you are talking about.
Is that something easy to replace ? Or a retrofit, like a check valve or rubber flapper that I could mount ?
I have been using woodden "carrots" to keep the water out, but I have to remember to unplug them in when I leave the boat in the water.
Ahmet the ball type scupper is easy to identify. They have a clear plastic housing on the exterior of the transom. The clear housing has a small opening at its bottom were the water exits from and the ball is visible through the housing as well. You can replace this design with the flapper type scupper (rubber flap) usually the bolt pattern for plastic mounting flange for either type are symetrical, usually. For your Dauntless and mine the location of the scuppers is a bit to low.
Thank you, I will check it out.
I have the feeling that there is no more ball left. Perhaps it all vaporized sometime between 1995 and now.
Another question about self-bailing:
With the 50HP on a 13 Dauntless, and the battery and tanks under the seat, I would like to loose as much weight as possible from the aft.
The compartment on the port side (where the drain plug is) is always full of water. The black cover itself just has not any seal. I will probably rebed it with 4200 to keep the water out.
Similarly there is a the little motor mount access well in front of the motor, ends up eventually filled up.
Does anybody see any problems with filling those areas with Styrofoam. I was thinking of getting thick insulation Styrofoam from home depot and cutting several layers to shape and just fill it in.
I was thinking of spray foam, but I am afraid that would be really a mess to remove sometime if I need service.
It seems to me, regardless how well I'd try to chaulk it up, after a long rain water still seeps in, and it gets filled up.
I think having water a little water come in on deck is just the nature of the beast. I sea trialed a 2004 Daunltess 16 a few years back and had the same issue. I did not purchase the boat. On my 2007 Daunltess 180 the scuppers are about 30% underwater when the boat is at rest. However, because the deck of the boat is 3-4 inches higher than the thru holes this is not a problem. Of course is could be a HUGE problem is the hoses were to fail.
Ahmet, I have a neighbor who recently purchased a '95 Dauntless 13 so I will use his for the visual referencing. In the console on the floor there is an opening for the rigging to travel towards the stern, rain water (if the boat is not covered) will eventually work its way into that opening causing the rigging tunnel (under the floor) to accumulate levels of water. At the stern (starboard side) there is a black plastic deck cover were the rigging exits from to the motor, water will accumulate there and there is a drain plug which aids in clearing that water. Its difficult to seal that deck cover for water intrussion so just drain it well when the boat is on the trailer. Regarding the cover plate located in the splash well ahead of the motor, I would not suggest putting styro-foam or any other product in there. Remove the cover and thoroughly dry the area within and allow some time for this area to vent out any remaining moisture. While this area is exposed check the lower motor bolt seen within and determine if they are secure and properly sealed (preferably with GE's 5200). If there is moisture seeping past the bolts, water accumulation and extra dead weight "not good". Seal the cover plate with either 4200 or silicone adhesive and you should do well. I hope this will help...
