View Thread
Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.

1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

 Print Thread
Trolling Motor & Dauntless 160
vettenorlando
#1 Print Post
Posted on 01/06/09 - 8:18 PM
Member

Posts: 25
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/06/09

Hi Everyone,

I'm new here and a new whaler owner. I purchased a 2002 Dauntless 160. I really want to put a trolling motor on it and have a dilemna because each party I speak to gives me a different answer. I want to buy a Minn Kota.... but do I get the 12v 55# thrust? Is that enough for my boat? Or do I get a 24v 70# thrust. The price between doing the two is that much different so I initially thought do the 70# and get the extra power, but then there is the issue of batteries. I recently had a dead battery while out enjoying the day and had to be towed back, so I installed a 2nd cranking battery under the console with a switch. I could probably get one battery under there for the 12v, but if I went 24, I would have to put one or both under the rear seats near the stern, and I'm concerned about the extra weight near the back.

What are the opinions of other whaler owners out there, I know I can't be the only one who wants to do this. I spoke to BW Customer Service and they told me a 55# would be more than enough, but that I need 54" shaft, which of course they don't make the riptide in a 54" shaft, so I would have to take it to a service center and pay $150 for a new shaft. Minn Kota also agrees 55# is enough. The local Whaler dealer says 55# "should" be enough but he's concerned about the 48" shaft, although he said it "should" work. Another boat mechanic that I've used before suggested the 70#, stating any wind or current and the 55# wouldn't be enough... He actually recommended a dual purpose battery under the console tied into my other battery system... But I've been told to keep them completely separate. My buddy has a 19 foot boat and he is suggesting the 70#

Does anyone have a 16 foot whaler with the troller that can give me your opinion?

I really appreciate your help.

 
Dave Wheeler
#2 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 4:23 AM
Member

Posts: 31
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/07/08

I would look at the Motorguide Saltwater wireless 55 pound thrust, 54 " shaft unit. It seems to meet your requirements and is priced lower than a similar sized Minn-Kota. The Motorguide also includes the removable mount with the unit. I have seen them on 18 to 19 foot long bay boats, but no real experience on a Whalet.

 
vettenorlando
#3 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 5:03 AM
Member

Posts: 25
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/06/09

Dave Wheeler wrote:
I would look at the Motorguide Saltwater wireless 55 pound thrust, 54 " shaft unit. It seems to meet your requirements and is priced lower than a similar sized Minn-Kota. The Motorguide also includes the removable mount with the unit. I have seen them on 18 to 19 foot long bay boats, but no real experience on a Whalet.


Thanks, I was looking at the Motorguide, I have no experience with it, so I didn't know how it would perform, I am going to goto BassPro and look at it. I didn't see a composite quick release mount like the minn kota has, which I like... I don't really want to have a piece of aluminum on the bow. I know that sounds like a silly reason, but ultimately the boat is a multi use, and I want to be careful what I put on the bow for when I have family on the boat.

Also, is 55# sufficient? I am getting such a variable response on whether it is enough of not.

 
Barryg
#4 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 5:25 AM
User Avatar
Member
Personal Page

Posts: 242
Comments: 1
Joined: 04/01/08

Vett , are you fishing fresh or saltwater? East or west coast? What kind of fishing are you most likely going to do?

 
vettenorlando
#5 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 5:43 AM
Member

Posts: 25
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/06/09

I live in Orlando, FL, we will do a lot of Lake fishing, but I want to be sure that I can use the motor in the intercoastal as well... I don't know how much fishing we will do out there, but I don't want to be limited as well.

 
Barryg
#6 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 5:59 AM
User Avatar
Member
Personal Page

Posts: 242
Comments: 1
Joined: 04/01/08

If you are a fishing nut or think you may be one in the future I would go with the 70#.Also I would grab the co-pilot that you can place on your wrist as well. I am like you I like the Minn-Kota quick release mount . BG

 
vettenorlando
#7 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 6:52 AM
Member

Posts: 25
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/06/09

I dont know that I am a fishing nut, but I want to be able to fish and enjoy it. I am more concerned about if the boat would handle well with two batteries under the rear seats, I'm adding like another 100lbs by doing that... The cost difference between doing the 55# vs the 70# is minimal, so its not even the money, its more about is the 70# necessary and if so is it a big deal to add two batteries under the seats. Then if I do, maybe I should try and get one under the console and one under a seat to help spread out the 100lbs.

 
vettenorlando
#8 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 8:07 AM
Member

Posts: 25
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/06/09

One other question. As far as wiring, I have two cranking batteries right now, my mechanic suggested taking one of them out and wiring it with a dual purpose battery and using those two batteries for the trolling and starting. I've been told that this isn't a good idea, and I should keep the trolling and starting completely separate. How do you have yours wired?

 
Barryg
#9 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 11:25 AM
User Avatar
Member
Personal Page

Posts: 242
Comments: 1
Joined: 04/01/08

Vett. I have three batteries under my console. One starting and two for the 24v trolling motor. Storage is in the cooler in front of the console. I put a quick disconect on my trolling motor and used a set of jumper cables to run the wire from the console to the quick disconect. THe jumper cables have the clamps clipped off of each end and battery post rings on one end and the quick connect on the other. With the disconect you can store it when not in use. BG

 
vettenorlando
#10 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 11:41 AM
Member

Posts: 25
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/06/09

Hi so what is the purpose of the quick disconnect? Sorry I guess I am confused. I have the trolling package on my boat, so there is a wire from the bow of the boat back to the console. I ws going to install a breaker and then attach it to the battery(s). were you able to get all three batteries on the floor indention in the console?

Sorry for the confusion

 
Barryg
#11 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 12:25 PM
User Avatar
Member
Personal Page

Posts: 242
Comments: 1
Joined: 04/01/08

Forget the jumper cables . That should be easy enough , I am not familiar with your console however it has to be bigger than the one I have . I do have all three in the console. I will take a pic as soon as I pick my boat up from the shop(impeller repair). BG

 
vettenorlando
#12 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 12:34 PM
Member

Posts: 25
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/06/09

Barryg wrote:
Forget the jumper cables . That should be easy enough , I am not familiar with your console however it has to be bigger than the one I have . I do have all three in the console. I will take a pic as soon as I pick my boat up from the shop(impeller repair). BG


Thanks I look forward to it! I'm starting to think that maybe I should just leave my current system for starting totally in place, and then put one deep cycle under the console and then put the last one under the aft starboard seat to run the trolling motor.


Edited by vettenorlando on 01/07/09 - 12:38 PM
 
burtim
#13 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 1:37 PM
User Avatar
Member
Personal Page

Posts: 178
Comments: 0
Joined: 02/10/08

This trolling motor thread interests me because I am about to put one on my 13 Sport.

I keep going back and forth about whether to go transom or bow mount for one thing. I will fish from the bow for Bass but sit at the helm trolling for Stripers or Walleye. The 13 is so short that I almost think a transom mount with a long handle would do the job. I also hate to cut up the bow and leave a mount bracket there. I agree with you guys that the plastic mount is far better than the aluminum one when the motor is removed.

Whalers are heavy, but it really doesn't seem to me that you should need the larger motor on this boat.

 
Barryg
#14 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 5:14 PM
User Avatar
Member
Personal Page

Posts: 242
Comments: 1
Joined: 04/01/08

burtim, if you go with the bow mount you have greater control in a wind. I mounted a quick mount on the 15 so I can switch the trolling motor between the two boats


Barryg attached the following image:


[42.13Kb]
 
vettenorlando
#15 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 5:28 PM
Member

Posts: 25
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/06/09

Thanks for the pic Barry, do you ahve one of the batteries and wiring? I'd like to see how you got the three down there... I think I am going to do three... 1 crank batt on the switch #1, and the other two for the 24v troller... then if I need the 2 deep cycles in an emergency I can just flip the switch to start my gas motor.... I think I can also put it to All while running and it will charge all three at the same time.

 
Dave Wheeler
#16 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 7:11 PM
Member

Posts: 31
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/07/08

It seems like the consensus of recommendations is to go with a 24 volt system. This is overkill on this boat, and if it requires putting batteries aft, the weight will, most likely, have a negative impact on this hulls performance. I say this based on previous threads asserting that this hull needs trim tabs to perform correctly.

If I was faced with this same situation, I would use the Motorguide SW 55 pound, 54" shaft. It would require a single deep cycle battery which it sounds like the boats is already wired for. I would also run my electronics off this battery, and then carry one starting battery that would have less of a draw coming off it. That should help resolve the weight issue, the space issue and I would carry a jump pack if I was concerned about the starting battery.

Also please note the Motorguide comes with the handheld controller, a clip for the belt (or where ever) and a white plastic cover for the removable mount when the troling motor is off the boat.

 
vettenorlando
#17 Print Post
Posted on 01/07/09 - 8:27 PM
Member

Posts: 25
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/06/09

Hey Dave, thanks for the opinion. I was thinking just doing the three batteries beneath the console... that way I would avoid the battery aft. I think that would help. I have the dilemna between the 55# and 70#, and there are opinions on both sides as to which is best. I am going to go look at the Motorguide this weekend. But can you tell me why you think the 24volt is overkill? As for the trim tabs, I will do a search about that, I've had no problems without trims.

The boat is already wired, but when talking to BW they said I could do either 24 or 12 with the wiring.


Edited by vettenorlando on 01/07/09 - 8:28 PM
 
Dave Wheeler
#18 Print Post
Posted on 01/08/09 - 5:27 AM
Member

Posts: 31
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/07/08

The 55 pound thrust is the better choice for a 16' boat. If you are using the trolling motor under any of the following conditions you will see some advantages to having a 24 volt system. 1. positioning the boat in a strong current or a tidal rip, 2. tournament fishing (8 hours a day), 3. fishing several days in a row with no access to recharge the batteries, 4. fishing in a high wind or a nasty chop, or 5. as a back-up for pulling tots in a tube. .

In any of the above conditions more thrust is better.

If your use will be as a positioning motor in more serene water conditions, the 55 pound thrust is more than adequate.

Also focus on a digital motor as the battery life is much longer, and should get a longer warranty.

I would also do everything possible to limit the weight in the boat. It will just perform better.

 
Barryg
#19 Print Post
Posted on 01/08/09 - 5:33 AM
User Avatar
Member
Personal Page

Posts: 242
Comments: 1
Joined: 04/01/08

Vett, here is your pic. wall to wall batteries. BG


Barryg attached the following image:


[74.26Kb]
Edited by Barryg on 01/08/09 - 5:43 AM
 
vettenorlando
#20 Print Post
Posted on 01/08/09 - 5:35 AM
Member

Posts: 25
Comments: 0
Joined: 01/06/09

Thanks.... definitely wall to wall.. I'm going to go measure the battery boxes and see if they will fit across like that.


Edited by vettenorlando on 01/08/09 - 5:46 AM
 
Jump to Forum:
Bookmark and Share
Today's Date & Time
November 24, 2024 - 6:31 AM
Visit our Sponsors
Nauset Marine - Whaler Parts and Accessories


Specialty Marine - Parts and Accessories


Carver Covers - The Best Covers Under The Sun


Wm. J. Mills and Co. - Boston Whaler Canvas



Click on logo to visit site
View all Sponsors Here
Users Online
Welcome
AuntiesMontauk
as the newest member

· Guests Online: 10
· Members Online: 0
· Total Members: 50,390
Login
Username

Password

Remember Me


Not a member yet?
Click here to register.

Forgotten your password?
Request a new one here.
Top 5 Models Posted
· Montauk 17 1,638
· Sport 13 1,366
· Outrage 18 556
· Nauset 16 402
· Sport 15 365

View all Models Here
Render time: 0.17 seconds Copyright WhalerCentral.com © 2003-2024 86,552,444 unique visits