E-TEC 90 rpm Issue
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mouchacs |
Posted on 05/15/16 - 1:37 PM
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HI guys. Super sport limited hull with E-tec 90. I have a 13 x 17 pitch prop on now, aluminum brp as you can see, and only seem to get up to 4500 at best at WOT. I use the boat mostly to have my 8 and 10 year old kids waterski (hopefully on one ski this summer) and tubing on a 600 acre lake in CT.
1. I was going to change it to the Stiletto Advantage I 15pitch prop hoping to get it up to 4900 ...as Tom suggested... but now I'm hearing it's no longer available?
2. DO you think I can pull a tube that's got 4 kids on? Obviously depends on size of kids but let's say 2 adults and 2 kids. I have no idea how to figure out "towing" limits so I don't kill the engine.
Tried attaching photo but website not letting me even though I made it 110kb...but I can email to any of you of course.
Edited by mouchacs on 05/15/16 - 1:44 PM |
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buchanan |
Posted on 05/15/16 - 5:23 PM
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if an inline 3 cyl 90 prop for 5200rpm with the load you describe I would shoot for 5500 light load but it sounds like something else may be going on I would think a 17 pitch would be closer to the ball park on that hull
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Finnegan |
Posted on 05/15/16 - 9:38 PM
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Sounds like a combination problem with bottom paint and engine mounted too low on transom. Prop pitch seems correct for a 2.0 gear ratio on that hull. Boat should do between 40 and 42 MPH.
If there is a Doelfin, get rid of that also.
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Marc-B |
Posted on 05/16/16 - 4:37 AM
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I have an new ETEC 90 on my 1979 Newport workboat (red dot) with a Viper 17 pitch and at WOT going past 5500 RPM going in the vicinity of 43mph (GPS), too scared to look at the gauges.
Only 4 hours on it so far, just love it. Over the next few weeks will report back with some more accurate numbers at various RPM"s
Snowing this morning ARGHH.
Marc
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NeilCarp |
Posted on 05/19/16 - 4:52 AM
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This is a 17 foot hull right? Something is wrong because I have performance similar to Marc and I run a 19 Stilletto. What mph are you running at WOT?
Edited by NeilCarp on 05/19/16 - 4:53 AM |
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Phil T |
Posted on 05/19/16 - 9:48 AM
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Before this gets any farther muddled:
Mouch - We need to know all of the items below to help.
What model of SS limited do you have? 17, 15 ?
What is the mounting position of the engine?
What is the exact make and model of the prop. 13x17 means NOTHING.
What is the WOT speed/rpms AND describe the gear, passenger weight, fuel load,painted bottom or not, T-top, bimini or not.
Towing a tube is very different from a skier. How many people in the boat pulling the tube? How fast do you want to go with the tube loaded?
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tmann45 |
Posted on 05/20/16 - 9:05 AM
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Phil T wrote:
Mouch - We need to know all of the items below to help.
What model of SS limited do you have? 17, 15 ?
What is the mounting position of the engine?
What is the exact make and model of the prop. 13x17 means NOTHING.
What is the WOT speed/rpms AND describe the gear, passenger weight, fuel load,painted bottom or not, T-top, bimini or not.
And motor trim. (Can't believe YOU left that out! :-) )
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mouchacs |
Posted on 05/31/16 - 8:18 PM
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17 foot super sport limited
What is the mounting position of the engine? HIGH UP - will try to attach photo
What is the exact make and model of the prop. BRP aluminum 17 pitch
What is the WOT speed/rpms AND describe the gear, passenger weight, fuel load,painted bottom or not, T-top, bimini or not. Speed as per speedometer is 35mph with 28 gallon full talk, me (about 225 lbs), my son (about 70 lbs). No bimini, bottom paint but mostly cleaned off ... some there I guess still....no gear....can't get rpm s above 4600 playing with tilt ..
thinking of going to 15 pitch ..if you think it would help bring rams closer to 5000 and give me better hole shot for kids when they are water skiing off it ...
LOOK AT PERSONAL PAGE FOR PHOTO OF ENGINE MOUNTING SCHEME
Edited by mouchacs on 05/31/16 - 8:22 PM |
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jamesgt727 |
Posted on 05/31/16 - 11:31 PM
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I looked at your page. You might want to try cleaning the old bottom paint off. It's probably costing you more. Just a thought.
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Phil T |
Posted on 06/01/16 - 6:45 AM
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Please post a picture of showing the top set of engine mounting holes.
What we want to know is how many empty holes are above the bolt. Should be 1 or 0.
Speedometer is a a BPR smart gauge or paddle wheel? Any chance you can get speed via GPS, maybe use an app on your iPhone?
If you are 1000 rpm below WOT running solo with no gear, either the prop is total crap or there is an engine issue.
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mouchacs |
Posted on 06/03/16 - 8:01 PM
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I have pic of engine on my page - engine all the way up with no empty holes under bolt.
I could not upload it in the message
will see if I can get GPS speed - not great cell coverage here
Full throttle rpm should be 5000 to 5500 .. .so I would think if I'm at 4600 now and I go from 17 pitch to 15 pitch I should be smack at 5000 .. which also gives me, according to the manual, the "full" 90 hp (90 hp at 5000 rpm is what manual says).
Also... any role for a four blade prop?
Thoughts?
mouchacs attached the following image:
[61.34Kb]
Edited by mouchacs on 06/09/16 - 7:29 PM |
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johnyrude200 |
Posted on 06/11/16 - 3:42 PM
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Just adding my $0.02. I don't see in your photos where the ventilation plate is lined up based on the keel of your vessel. Too low = more drag = less RPM. Too high = not enough bite in the water = too high RPM = prop slippage. Folks are asking what hole your stern bracket is mounted to on the stern. Well that doesn't mean anything where that's mounted. What matters is where the anti-ventilation plate is lined up.
I mounted a motor on my test boat (full time OMC Mechanic) and due to the aftermarket power trim unit set back (panther), the motor is actually 9" higher than the transom to get it lined up right with the keel of the vessel. It's a long shaft motor on a short shaft boat...I reconfigure the boat almost daily for all the motors I test on the water.
If you see a bunch of spray at anything much above 1/3 throttle, the motor is sitting too LOW. Especially if you have water coming back into the boat.
Every pitch up or down is roughly 200-300 RPM. Make sure the motor is lined up right first before playing with props. A 1-2" change in where the motor is hanging can make a huge difference in performance!
If you line the ventilation plate up to be parallel with your keel and 1" higher, that generally gives better performance. You won't need to trim the motor up much to gain max RPM and speed either at this position. (Also saves on the battery if the motor is set up wrong...won't be trimming the motor so much every time you're at WOT).
Take two yard sticks, use one to extend the keel line back into space toward your motor. Take the 2nd and set it on top of the ventilation plate. These two lines should be as close to even and parallel as possible. If they aren't, FIX THAT FIRST, then take the boat to see what type of RPMs you're getting at WOT. And make sure you go WOT with your desired load.
In terms of pulling, that is a balancing act between enough prop to pull someone out of the water when skiing, and not too much where the motor is lugging. If it's at LOW RPM at WOT (Below recommendations), than that's a great way to burn out cylinders, rings, and pistons. That's like driving up hill towing a heavy trailer in overdrive in a pickup!
Edited by johnyrude200 on 06/11/16 - 3:51 PM |
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Phil T |
Posted on 06/11/16 - 4:12 PM
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In addition to Johny's comments.
You don't say what Brand and model of prop. 13x17 means nothing since every model performs differently, even within the same brand.
In doing some historical searches there are a few props recommended BUT it depends on load and usage. If you are going to pull a skier or large tube with 4 persons, it definitely changes things.
In stepping further back, you are 1k below WOT rpm. Has the motor been serviced. Does it run and start smooth? Spark plugs recent?
Please confirm before we talk props to suggest.
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 06/11/16 - 5:03 PM
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johnyrude200 wrote:
Folks are asking what hole your stern bracket is mounted to on the stern. Well that doesn't mean anything where that's mounted. What matters is where the anti-ventilation plate is lined up.
Actually using the bolt holes has been tested on all motors and it now is the recommended way to judge where the anti-ventilation plate is without having to look or measure.
Just tell us which holes the brand of motor is mounted in and we can tell you what works best.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...cle_id=106
The E-Tec motor is proven to work best mounted 3 holes up (All The Way Up) on a Classic 16/17 Boston Whaler with the correct prop and possibly 2 holes up using a older type aluminum prop.
Other brands of motors may vary in bolt hole position.
Regardless of where the motor is mounted in relation to the bottom of the hull or the bolt holes:
The correct way to tell the mounting height is by the lack of spray coming off the anti-ventilation plate.
Too much spray and the motor needs to go up.
Cavitation and the motor needs to go down or possibly try a different prop.
Bottom Line:
Evinrude E-Tec motor mounted all the way up with a good prop.
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MG56 |
Posted on 06/12/16 - 4:07 AM
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Throttle cable adjustment?
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mouchacs |
Posted on 06/12/16 - 7:52 AM
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ok- so engine is all the way up as Joe and others suggested and based on previous testing
BRP aluminum propeller
Used GPS as suggested and with my 340lbs of passengers got her up to 36mph at 4500
Slight amount of spray .. not much.
Boat is in water hopefully for the summer but I recall checking the vent plate and it was high enough.
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Phil T |
Posted on 06/12/16 - 8:12 AM
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you are 1k below WOT rpm. Has the motor been serviced. Does it run and start smooth? Spark plugs recent?
Edited by Phil T on 06/12/16 - 8:12 AM |
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mouchacs |
Posted on 06/12/16 - 8:53 AM
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it s exactly 3 years old
has been running super smooth and starting like a champ every time
not a lot of hours
original spark plugs
just changed lower unit oil before putting it in water
nearest dealer over two hours away
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Phil T |
Posted on 06/12/16 - 9:50 AM
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Before we go suggesting you spend $300 for a prop I think some scientific testing is in order.
On a calm day, no 2' waves or 15 mph winds please launch the boat, (Bantam Lake?) remove all the extraneous gear, leaving anchor and safety equipment.
With just you aboard....
#1 Drive as straight as possible staying at WOT for at least 5 minutes. While at WOT trim motor all the way. Write down the RPM's and the GPS speed. slow down.
#2 Repeat # 1 in the direct opposite direction. Write down WOT RPM and GPS speed. slow down
#3 Repeat # 1 but trim engine out till the steering is light with no torque steer. Write down WOT RPM and speed. Slow down.
#4 Repeat #2 but trim engine out and write down the WOT ROM and GPS speed.
Please find prop part #. It is usually stamped on the inside or outside of the hub.
Edited by Phil T on 06/12/16 - 9:54 AM |
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NeilCarp |
Posted on 06/12/16 - 10:33 AM
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It might be worth the trouble to bring the prop to a prop shop and have then measure the pitch. Regardless of what the prop started out as, it might have been reworked up or down in pitch. I dont know how an aluminum prop acts when compared to stainless but the numbers sound more like a 21 or 22 inch.
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