1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Shift and throttle system problem
randolphp	#1  Posted on 10/03/15 - 12:11 PM
Member Posts: 74 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/31/14	2007 150 Sport, 60 h.p. Mercury Bigfoot This engine is 8 years old but has only 20 hours on it. It runs well but I have very little experience with the boat. It's still on the trailer and I haven't put it in the water yet for a number of reasons not relevant here. I attach a hose to the engine and run it occasionally. The engine runs well. The idle throttle works well. The problem seems to be when I shift into forward and into reverse. If I shift into forward cautiously and slowly, I hear a gear-stripping noise before the transmission moves into forward gear, but it always successfully shifts into gear. If I shift into forward gear faster the transmission makes a thud sound that makes it evident that it is indeed in gear but the thud noise seems louder than it should be for a good -quality engine. Also, I have to move the throttle handle fairly far forward before there is acceleration, although there is always good acceleration. I just wouldn't have expected to have to move the throttle handle so far forward to begin acceleration after shifting into forward gear. In reverse, there is a slighter gear-stripping noise but no acceleration even when I pull the throttle all the way back. I think I should get more than idle-speed acceleration in reverse. So those are the problems with the shift and throttle. Anybody else ever have these problems and if so, how were the problems solved? Randy Edited by randolphp on 10/03/15 - 12:13 PM
Phil T	#2  Posted on 10/03/15 - 12:27 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Shifting gears on an outboard does take a bit of technique. Some shifters/cables allow smooth, silk shifting. Most motors take a quick firm shift from N to F or R. The key thing is go faster when you hear the grinding. When you are in the water, the sounds will be lessened a bit.
randolphp	#3  Posted on 10/03/15 - 1:08 PM
Member Posts: 74 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/31/14	Thanks, Phil. The engine has to get used more, too, which I hope to do next year. I have a mooring for it now I just have to get it up to where it belongs. Any thoughts as to why I only have idle speed in reverse? Not that i would want to go very fast in reverse. Also, there's the distance in throttle position between the place when the transmission is in gear and the position when acceleration begins. Have cables slipped inside the throttle/shift housing?
Phil T	#4  Posted on 10/03/15 - 2:22 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Use caution running the motor on muffs, don't exceed 1k rpm's. The two shift cables control gear and throttle separately. They have adjustment inside the motor. Lift the cover and view the cable connection to see the movement in the linkage while moving the shift/throttle handle.
Finnegan	#5  Posted on 10/04/15 - 3:01 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	It sounds like your probelm is definitely throttle and shift cable adjustments at the engine. You have to determine whether you have Mercury's Generation I or Generation II control/cable design. You may be able to find the instructions on line somewhere. Not too long ago i gave someone here instructions on the Gen I adjustments (which you can search out), but I am not familiar with the Gen II system.
randolphp	#6  Posted on 10/05/15 - 3:26 AM
Member Posts: 74 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/31/14	Thanks for the message. I'll call the dealer of the original sale and get the info. I'll also familiarize myself with the linkage at the engine.
dauntless-n-miami	#7  Posted on 10/05/15 - 8:12 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 315 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/05/08	Hello randolphp, perhaps some adjustment may be required of the throttle/shift cables. With regards to shift noises, the "flush" ear muffs can a times with escaping water flow turn the prop slowly in a clock-wise turn. When you shifted the drive to reverse the prop may have been rotating slowing in the opposite direction which would initiate a "gear grinding" sound. The "thud" sound you experienced when placing the drive in forward is typical when the outboard is not submerged in water. With the prop submerged, water will act as a dampener absorbing sound and reducing prop turn when motor is in neutral or idle. As mentioned, prevent over-revving the outboard when flushing on the trailer...very bad for the water pump (impeller). If your considering future motor flushing's with drive shifts then perhaps an outboard flush bag may be an interesting option. There quite handy after a water pump repair. Hope all gets worked out for you... Best, Angel M. 1996 Dauntless 15, Sportsman Pkg. - 2007 Yamaha 90 HP 2-Stroke
MG56	#8  Posted on 10/05/15 - 8:38 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 357 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/11/13	Randy, have you ever checked the gear oil?
EJO	#9  Posted on 10/05/15 - 9:59 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 669 Comments: 6 Joined: 11/25/12	Randy I have the same vintage (50th anniversary edition) new boat and motor as you. I too think it is strange to have such a long (10 to 15 degrees) delay in forward for the acceleration to kick in but don't have that problem in reverse. I got used to it and now it is just expected. Having run many inboards and only a few OB's I know each is different and the IB's are much more sensitive than the OB's. I don't know if it is a Bigfoot thing but yes they seem to make a good thud when shifting as compared to some other. As mentioned before that will lessen in the water and I hope you are using the hose hooked up to the center back of the motor and not muffs when running the engine out of the water as you get better water intake. Your Sport must be brand new with only 20hrs in 8 year and therefore must have sat still for long periods of time. Check the oils and especially the gearcase oil. You must have gotten complete boat and engine manuals? Welcome and have lots of fun with your new ride, you have more constraints than I have, not having driven the boat yet, I had to check mine just before the water froze over. Skipper E-J m/v "Clumsy Cleat" a 2008 Montauk 150
Finnegan	#10  Posted on 10/05/15 - 10:46 AM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	To void the gear stripping sound, shift firmly and quickly into forward. If you do it slowly, you will get the gear grinding sound with any Merc. If you are using an SS prop on the Bigfoot gear case, you MUST use a Mercury FloTorq *III* hub kit to avoid the shifting "thud" and clutch rattle at low RPM.
randolphp	#11  Posted on 10/15/15 - 2:17 PM
Member Posts: 74 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/31/14	Thanks for the info on the hub kit. How do I know whether or not I have one of these on my motor (2007 Mercury Bigfoot 60 hp) and is installation of the hub kit something a DIY'er can do? I have a lot of experience using tools. Edited by randolphp on 10/15/15 - 2:19 PM