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Cracked engine block
lafrombaye
#1 Print Post
Posted on 10/02/15 - 7:32 AM
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I have a 1997 Rage 15' with a Mercury 175 hp Sport jet. When I pulled the motor to perform a rebuild, we discovered cylinder #6 is cracked. Is watching Ebay my only option to tracking down a core?

 
EJO
#2 Print Post
Posted on 10/02/15 - 9:04 AM
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What do you mean by #6 is cracked. Is the cast block cracked? Is the cylinder wall cracked? Is a cooling cavity cracked?
Each of those could require a different solution.
Talk to a local engine re-builder they might have a solution for you.


Skipper E-J
m/v "Clumsy Cleat" a 2008 Montauk 150
 
Finnegan
#3 Print Post
Posted on 10/02/15 - 9:44 AM
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You can buy factory remanufactured engine blocks from Mercury. Go to mercurymarine,com for information and availability. Be wary of something like that used from Ebay.

 
jgortva
#4 Print Post
Posted on 10/02/15 - 10:12 AM
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Not to be a basher, but I have quite a bit of experience with this model. I would say, sink it, burn it, or chop it up and put it in a dumpster. BW RAGE suffered from all the same issues as every other jet boat outfitted with the Sport Jet engines. Sooner rather than later they all blow up. The 175 HP is a little better than the smaller one, but these engines have always been a, "Problem Child". Some rage's were offerred with the Yamaha Jet Engine and they were not much better either. That is why you can look at CL or any other boat classified section in any town in the U.S and you can find Rage's selling for peanuts compared to any other Whaler. That is also probably why there are only 2 members on this sight that list that they own this boat. Your best bet is to either take the money you would spend on a rebuilt or reman engine and invest it into a nice older 13 sport which even with a vintage motor, will run better, be 100 times more reliable, and hold its value. The other option I have seen is that people because they like the center console and layout of the Rage will put a outboard Bracket on the boat and replace the jet with a outboard. All you need to do is run new cables and steering. I have seen some really nice ones modified in this way.


Edited by jgortva on 10/02/15 - 10:17 AM
 
lafrombaye
#5 Print Post
Posted on 10/02/15 - 11:13 AM
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Thanks guys.
EJO-What I mean, the cast cylinder wall is cracked.

Finnegan- I will take a look at the site you suggested.

jgortva- Thanks for the opinion/Facts.
Before I picked this project Rage up, I read all the issues with this jet set up and planned on converting to an outboard. Once the boat was in my garage I just thought I'd take a shot at a rebuild first.

 
butchdavis
#6 Print Post
Posted on 10/02/15 - 1:12 PM
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Cylinder sleeve.


Butch
 
lafrombaye
#7 Print Post
Posted on 10/02/15 - 1:38 PM
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both the sleeve and casting.

 
butchdavis
#8 Print Post
Posted on 10/03/15 - 6:59 AM
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As EJO recommended, take the block to an engine rebuilder to determine if it is repairable. Some cracks can be welded others require more effort. I believe the most common repair for a cracked cylinder wall is to bore out the cylinder enough to allow a new cylinder to be installed. This is often referred to as "sleeving the cylinder" The sleeve is sized to accept the original piston.

When going to the trouble to do all the work involved it is common to overhaul the engine during it's reassembly. It may be a good idea to chemically clean the block while it is apart. Over time the cooling water passages often become partially blocked with chemical deposits. Removing the deposits will improve engine cooling in the future. The cleaning can be accomplished by a rebuilder while repairing the block.

A remanufactured block as suggested by Finnegan may be a more economical and reliable alternative.


Butch
 
lafrombaye
#9 Print Post
Posted on 10/05/15 - 7:37 AM
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Thanks for all the great feedback.
Since I have nothing to lose at this point, I'm going to have a little fun and try to convert this little beauty to an outboard but, I want to reinforce the transom and mount the motor directly to the hull. I'm pretty sure the transom will have to be notched down to fit a 20" shaft motor.
Any suggestion on cutting technique would be appreciated.

 
EJO
#10 Print Post
Posted on 10/05/15 - 10:12 AM
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la not a bad idea to go to OB but I've no experience with that so I'm out. good luck


Skipper E-J
m/v "Clumsy Cleat" a 2008 Montauk 150
 
gchuba
#11 Print Post
Posted on 10/05/15 - 10:50 AM
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Maybe check into an Armstrong bracket or similar.Bolt on and no need to alter the transom. I am not sure of the looks with such a small hull. Others more familiar with the construction of the transom with feedback for cutting into it. Good luck.
Garris

 
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