Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
Thank you to all who responded to my first post! I now have the new cables in hand. Is there any tips or tricks to changing them? My engine is a 1998 mercury 115 hp elpto with a quick silver bimini mount. I want to do this myself because i don't want to be at the mercy of someone else. Thank you Brian
I have done many of these installations on my own Whalers, so I will try to help you out. Control should be in neutral position when disconnecting at engine.
1. disconnect the throttle cable at the engine, and OBSERVE how it is installed. Keep the old cable for a reference in adjusting the BARREL on the new cable to the approximate correct location.
2. Disconnect the shift cable, also learning how it works at the engine and for barrel location.
3. Snap the control cover off, unbolt the control at the console, and pull straight up so it is easy to access the cables. The throttle cable is disconnected first, then the shift. I think either a 3/8" or 7/16" deep socket is required, and the control handle has to be operated to access the nuts. Remeber how they work, and the new ones will go back in shift first, then throttle. There is no adjstment required at the control end, They can only go on one way. There is a throttle friction adjustment screw at the top of the control. Be sure it is set correctly, so the throttle will not work too hard, and lose position if too loose.
4. Pull the old cables out from the stern, and feed the new ones in from the stern. That way the barrels will not snag other wires in the boat tunnel.
5. After the cables are attached to the control, and control re-installed, mark which is throttle and shift. Feed new cables into engine.
6. The shift cable goes on first. Slide the free floating shift plate back and forth and determine the center location. Then attach the cable with a slight advantage to the "reverse" position. The barrel spins on the cable for the proper length adjustment. Then check shifting function by using the control,
To get the control into reverse, the prop has to be rotated in reverse by someone as you are shifting.
When properly in forward, the prop will not turn.
7. Last is installing the throttle cable. Control should be in neutral. You want to adjust the barrel for a slight pre-load against the idle stop. This is determined by whether a piece of paper can be pulled out from under the stop with only slight resistance with control in neutral position. If the paper tears, it's too much pressure (engine will be hard to shift out of forward) and if too loose, idle speed will be too high. Sometime it takes three or four tries to get this right, but it's VERY important. Improper throttle pressure at the engine is common problem with Mercs when people complain about difficulty shifting.
I hope you bought the XTREME cables. If you did, you will be amazed at how smooth the operation is.
It's as close to DTS as you can get with mechanical cables and conventional controls.
Finnegan thank you so much for the detailed information. I have enlarged it and printed it and will charge ahead tomorrow. And yes i did get the Xtreme cables. So slippery!!!!
