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Lower unit paint touch up (Mercury)?
jaymoussy
#1 Print Post
Posted on 06/24/15 - 12:36 PM
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Posts: 37
Comments: 0
Joined: 05/16/15

Well, third outing in inner bay, nice weather.
Much better launch + retreive, but smooth docking needs more work!

Good a little too close to a marsh, and, as I do not yet have a good sense where my motor trim is at, I ended up dragging the lower unit on sand bottom a bit, before correcting/pulling away.

Now I have a bit of exposed aluminum on "bottom fin" of lower unit (2006 Mercury 90 hp).

Best way to touch up, considering it is bound to happen again, given the local waters, but to a much lesser degree, hopefully.
I do not need to bring it back to showroom condition, just want to protect exposed metal.

EDIT:
WM seem to have the proper Mercury stuff as spray cans: the primer, and the "Phantom Black"
Go with that?


Edited by jaymoussy on 06/24/15 - 12:44 PM
 
brooks89
#2 Print Post
Posted on 06/24/15 - 12:51 PM
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Posts: 177
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Joined: 05/24/07

Yes, the phantom black touch up paint with an appropriate metal primer will work fine to touch up your skeg. You can also clear coat over the phantom black for a little more protection. Mask off the areas you don't want to spray and never paint any anodes or 'zincs' on your motor.

I touch up my skeg annually in the spring before I put in for the season.

 
Finnegan
#3 Print Post
Posted on 06/29/15 - 7:42 PM
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Posts: 1926
Comments: 16
Joined: 05/02/08

I have used the Mercury/Quicksilver branded paint system many times, and it works very well, with near factory finish results if done correctly. THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CANS MUST BE FOLLOWED EXACTLY, INCLUDING THE SANDING REQUIREMENTS AND TIME LIMITS. This is important, because all three applications bond together to form the completed finish.

You can see my results here, as both engine lower units were re-painted by me several years ago.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...2743115055

It is a THREE step system, which includes the primer, black color coat and final clear coat. You must use all three, and sometimes the Clear Coat can is hard to find in stores. I had to order it separately, in a case of six cans, but it is worth it, since this is where the durabililty comes from.

As a final step, for factory professional finish, and after the application has cured for a week or so, lightly wet sand with #1500 followed by #2000, then buff with 3M Finesse-it II, followed by buffing with Kit Scratch-Out. This gets rid of any "orange peel" and gives a high gloss smooth finish.

 
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