Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
I'm interested in adding a kicker engine on my 1989 27 full Cabin. She currently has twin 2005 225hp Optima's and the hull is rated up to 600hp so I don't think weight should be an issue. I am concerned about throwing off the weight to the port side and effecting her ride and stability however. There is currently a kicker bracket on there and I'm following up with the manufacturer to see if it would be strong enough to handle the weight of a modern 4-stroke 9.9hp (approx 120lbs.). If not I will need to go with a new bracket to replace it - these look nice - http://www.saltbossmarine.com .
Will 9.9 be enough to push this hull? The main use for the boat is slow trolling for salmon. I'm also wondering if I should plumb it to the main fuel tank or install a small separate tank for just the kicker? If I put it on the opposite side maybe this would solve the weighting issue. I'm also planning to install the binnacle throttle and an auxiliary wheel on the transom so I could work the rods and the kicker all from the stern... This would make the kicker a completely separate entity from the main engines which would be nice in my head but maybe I am missing something.
Current bracket can be seen on my flickr account below:
I have a 1999 23' conquest with twin 135's and a kicker way off in the corner. My 9.9 HT pushes it just fine all the way to 4' chop in all directions. I think my boat loaded with gear and fuel weighs in at about 6000lbs. the boat does lean a little to the kicker side Port but the trim tabs correct that easily. In the great lakes we troll for salmon at 2-3.5mph. Slower then 2mph is tough in any waves over 2-3'. Trolling bags would help because the increase thrust needed would help the kicker control. I would say on a 27' boat you will likely be better off with a 15hp but the 9.9 would do the job. top speed for me in flat water is just over 6mph. I have mine tied to a Garmin TR1 Gold autopilot and works like a charm.
Thanks for the response gentlebrian. Do you have it connected to the auxiliary steering of there main engines with a tie bar? or tiller? how do you steer it? I'm considering putting it on it it's own auxillary steering system but then I would lose the ability to have the main engines act as large rudders when running the kicker..
I have a similar hull to Brian (22' 1979 Revenge). My kicker is on a Garelick scissor mount. 9.9 hp High Thrust that works fine for my hull with similar speeds. No matter what you put on strictly a non plane motor. Teleflex and Panther make steering rods that mount on the boat side of the motor. I have been using the main motor as a rudder with OK results but prefer a little better maneuverability when trolling with the "fleet". Teleflex has an attachment for hydraulic steering if you cannot find a good place to mount on the main motor.
Garris
I have a tiller model but I never touch it. I use the garmin TR1 Gold autopilot. That does all the steering and throttle. If you have the funds GET the TR1. It changes the entire fishing experience for both you and your crew. Not sure how you guys fish but I will routinely troll 10-16 lines at once when fishing for salmon so boat control is critical and you cant beat a throttle control like control king or the one with the TR1. Can dial speed much easier with adjustments in 50rpm increments.
Here is a video of the TR1 on my last boat. https://youtu.be/zRzt0uclk6o
For fuel proper way to do it is to run a fuel line all the way back to the tank. Alternatively you can put a T in the fuel line for you main motor and install 2 valves. The idea is one motor will suck the fuel from the other motor so a cutoff valve is needed. That said I always just used a T with no valves and haven't had any issues but I Never run both the kicker and mains at the same time.
When picking a motor a thing to consider is the amount of power it puts out. Mercs and Yamahas only have a 6 amp output where the Honda has a 12 amp. I run lots of electronics, lights, downriggers, autopilot pump, stereo and haven't had a problem but the battery does drain faster then the kicker can charge it so have to think ahead on that one and put together a system that doesn't affect your main motors. If I run radar it drains fast so if you have radar going to have to get a Honda. I think Suzuki also may put out 12 amps.
