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Finally got the boat in the water for the 1st time today.
Also, road tested the trailer.
The weekend was not looking too good, so when I did my road test today I decided to drive the boat to Cesars Creek Lake and back. I had my wife with me so I thought I would see if we could get the boat launched.
First try I backed to within 30 feet and then had wife back down while I watched to see if the boat floated off the trailer. She started jack knifing trailer and so didn't get far enough into the water.
Changed places and I backed the boat into the water and let her say when the 4Runner wheels were getting close to the water and I stopped.
The trailer is short, so you had to get the 4Runner tires within a foot of the water at which time the boat started to release off the trailer.
We walked in down the dock and tied her off while I took the trailer up and parked it.
Put the Bimini Top up and got the boat moving.
Everything seemed to work well, but I did find a couple issues.
1. The 4 leaf springs I replaced are way too stiff for the trailer. I am going to buy 2 leaf springs or take these apart and remove a couple leafs. Definitely beating the boat up being so stiff. I ordered the same springs that were on trailer, but they aren't right. After reading several threads on this topic, this trailer should be set up more for about 1000lbs versus 2000lbs with 4 leafs.
2. I need to check the throttle cable and replace the kinked gas line.
I have a new gas line due in tomorrow, didn't have it in time for testing today.
When I go to throttle up, the rpm's hesitate and then they catch up. Seems like play in the throttle cable or the kinked fuel line is starving the engine during throttle up until fuel vacuum forces hose open?
Throttle down seems to be more consistent, but maybe not. If not, more likely the throttle cable has slack in it.
Anyways, got a quick 1 hour test in today and found a couple obvious issues to work out. Doesn't look like this weekend will offer any additional chances, so I took a shot today.
Attached is the only picture I got today. My cheap camera isn't working and I was afraid we may go swimming, so I put my better camera back in the truck before taking off :-)
The trailer is short, so you had to get the 4Runner tires within a foot of the water at which time the boat started to release off the trailer.
You are submerging too far. You have a keel roller trailer and not a float on.
To keep the vehicle out of the water, only back in to a point where the stern just starts to lift. Park. Get out, unhook and then push the bow and she should slide off.
Once you find the right spot, mark the water line on the forward side of the driver side trailer fender. In the future you can just watch for that mark in the side mirror.
To retrieve, you want to submerge a bit further in the the mark.
It takes practice.
You might want to find a big parking lot and practice maneuvering the trailer into spaces. Your wife can also practice too.
By the way, I googled the lake, it's only 2 hrs north of me. Cool.
Thanks Phil,
Yep, some good suggestions. Thanks.
I can back a trailer well, my wife needs the practice lol.
I never seen your location as Lexington before. I just glanced and seen Maine.
I spent 6 months in Auburn Maine just before I retired. Me and my wife got to explore as much as we could on the weekends. Very wonderful place with special people.
If you ever get up this way, give me a heads up and I'll go with you.
On the delayed acceleration, I've read a few things it might be. Just haven't got into it yet.
1. Kink in fuel line
2. Fuel filter
3. Accelerator pump
4. Power pack
If someone is having trouble backing up a trailer tell them to hold their hand on the bottom of the steering wheel, and when they want the trailer to go right move their hand right. That trick minimizes most of the chaos.
As for your hesitation, have you tried to decarb it? I assume the engine is new to you and has been sitting. If you don't know what I am talking about I can post the procedure. It is simple to do and you won't believe the goo that comes out of the engine.
The above will help your engine be all it can be but when you say you have a kinked fuel line all sorts of red flags come up. You wouldn't believe how many problems are caused by on deck fuel tank lines. You could have bad hose, leaky connections or the famous bad primer bulb. I wouldn't just be replacing the kinked hose, I'd be replacing the entire fuel line assembly with quality OEM gear, and replace any connection fitting that looked iffy.
Oh, have you put new plugs in it yet? And a dirty fuel filter can cause hesitation, but I'm sure you checked that.
Thanks MG,
I replaced the whole fuel line. Just came in today.
The old one looks worse after seeing new OEM.
I have not changed the connections on the engine or fuel tank.
The plugs are new and look good.
I have not had a chance to check fuel filter. I guess you just change that out? Not sure how it can be checked.
Please post a link to the carb cleaning procedure.
Are you talking about Sea Foam? I have seen a couple Youtube Videos on that, but not sure which procedure to use. I seen a spray into carb and an additive to fuel.
The boat and engine is new to me and has been sitting over winter.
Thanks much.
Best regards,
Doug
Edited by dougt on 07/26/14 - 8:02 PM
1996 Sport GLS 13' - 1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 Stroke
Your connections are probably ok but I'm trying to rule out either a dirty filter, (that would restrict fuel flow), or a leaky fuel line, (that would weaken the supply). You could also have a fuel pump that is just starting to go, and they are cheap & easy to rebuild. I don't know what you have for an engine but you probaly have a small filter that you can clean.
You can decarb with Seafoam, Berryman's B-12 or Techron, and the outboard manufacturers have some branded products, but they all do the same thing. There a couple ways to do it, spray into the carbs or run a rich mix from a tank. Running the mix from a tank is by far the most thorough method. I call it Bigshots/Tohsgibs method, that he learned from a Yamaha Tech.
Use any small gas tank you have around and take that fuel line you are about to throw out and remove the tank end fitting and put the hose right in the tank.
Take a 1/2 gallon or less of gas and can of either Techron, Berryman's B-12, Seafoam, etc and mix them together(add proper mix of 2 stoke oil if not injected). Put gas line in tank and let engine run at (slightly) high idle until mixture is near empty but still in line and carbs. Raise engine & remove plugs and pour/spray some cleaner in each cylinder. Turn the flywheel to work it into the rings. Put the plugs back in finger tight and let it sit overnight. In the morning pull the plugs and spin the engine so you don't hydrolock it and put the plugs back in. Hook engine up to regular fuel supply and start engine and run it until the smoke clears.
Some people run it a bit and shut down for 15 minutes, then repeat & repeat. That makes sense to do once at first, to give the mixture a chance to work on the worst of the goo. As far as letting it set overnight? You can run the mix in the morning and then run the boat in the afternoon, same thing. You just want to give the solvent enough time to do its thing. Too much time in between is not a good thing.
I'll tell you right now, it makes one hell of a mess, so don't even think of doing it on that nice clean driveway of yours. You could back the boat right into the water and leave it on the trailer. Run the mix through and go home. Whatever.
If you are still having problems you could try to back out the jets 1/8 of a turn. I'm not a big fan of adjusting things until I am sure the basic things we have been talking about are ruled out, and the fuel pump is still an unknown.
My whaler used to have a 1996 Evinrude 150- loop charged v6 on her. When I got her, I was having similar fuel /carb issues.
I changed the racor fuel filter, put new fuel lines, and I made a mix of 1can liquid seafoam, 2gallons of gas, and oil premix on a small portable. Plumbed into the fuel line and ran for ten minutes at higher idle(@1000-1100rpm). I then let it sit for several hours.... Ran it again on high idle for ten.... Let it sit.
I them reattached original fuel line to main tank (no sea foam) and ran until smoke cleared. Does good job chasing Mosquitos away. Haha I then changed all spark plugs with new. Really did a good job of clearing her throat. ;-)
Good luck
Edited by Jbeaux2000 on 07/27/14 - 8:50 AM
1989 18' outrage / 2013 E-tec 150-AAB model
Water Test #2 Today
1996 Johnson 40hp
Changed out fuel line and bulb for new OEM.
The throttle still has a dead spot in it between 2,000rpm and 3,400rpm.
When running at 2,000 rpm's, if you slowly move the throttle forward, nothing happens and then it jumps off and runs towards 4,000rpm's.
Not a slow build anymore, so I do think I had a small air leak in the fuel line.
Also, when at 3,500 rpm similar response going down. Nothing for 1st 1" of travel on the throttle, then it drops right away to 2,000rpm.
I was playing with fast idle cable the other day with the cover off because I had not used it. I seen an electrical cable that seemed to be rubbing the throttle body cam (?). Seemed like it was preventing cam from coming back to stop position and was idling at like 1,200 rpm. I tried to push the cable over and it seemed to drop slightly but not perfect every time. I have to read more in the manual, so I didn't fool with it anymore.
I think I might have a cable interfering with the free movement of the throttle cam that is moved by the throttle cable? Once enough force is applied, it overcomes the pressure of the cable and springs forward.
Just a theory, have to read up on how the linkage works and have the wife move the throttle cable while I watch how and what moves.
I tried to observe WOT rpm. I got to 4,800rpm and about 31-32mph. It was a little choppy and had to back off before I could get a solid reading. Definietl goes fast enoughh for me, but interested to know if I have WOT rpm's closer to 5,500 as recommended.
Hoping some reading in the manual and some observations will lead to a simple solution.
Changed out last bow roller that was cut to prevent rolling by PO. Boat now slides easily off trailer and into water without any effort.
Doug, regarding the flat spot and your idle speed issue, sounds like you need to do what's called a "link and sync" which is the process of setting up the throttle linkage to the timer base and the carbs so they all work harmoniously together. It's quite easy to do if you're reasonably handy, and have access to the factory service manual.
Thanks Tim,
Yes, I breezed that section when I 1st got the boat.
Just now getting to engine optimization, so I will go back and read that section again and look through my linkage setup.
Just got back in from the garage going through the link and sync checks.
I have a good set of digital micrometers, so I could measure a few things pretty accurate.
Everything looked pretty good, but I did find the cam follower out of position with the cam and the WOT stop did not seem correct. I guess that could have put my mid range rpm's right in the steep part of the cam that just a little one way or the other gives you a big change making it hard to find that 3000rpm spot.
That cam seems pretty flat for the 1st 1/3 of the travel.
We'll see if that helps the issue next time out.
WOT change could put me closer to 5500 as well. Again, will have to look at that next time in the water.
Boat jumps right up on plane easily. I liked cruising about 3,000rpm at ~16mph. Getting the hang of this boat thing lol
I pulled the fuel filter yesterday and it was spotless.
I have a set of new plugs, but ones in there were suppose to be new and they look very good. Engine doesn't have symtoms of a miss either.
The issue I experienced today definitely seemed like something the cam could definitely impact. What that cam follower does is what the throttle does.
At idle position, I checked that butterflies were closed and at WOT they are fully open.
Carbs looked really clean from what I could see.
MG,
I checked that wire I spoke of. It was close, but not really touching anything. It was also closer to the bigger cam that is attached to the throttle cable. Would have taken a lot of pressure to impact the function of that plate.
Thanks for the input again. Much appreciated.
best regards,
Doug
Edited by dougt on 07/31/14 - 7:57 PM
1996 Sport GLS 13' - 1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 Stroke
Link & Sync Followup:
When I 1st tried this, the 1st thing it says to do is to disconnect throttle cable. Once I made adjustments, the throttle cable wouldn't reach to put the pin clip back in. I thought I should adjust the knurled knobs on the cable to adjust backwards as necessary, but was afraid to fool with it.
Anyways, when I tried to do link/sync without disconnecting cable, then the idle was too high.
So, I did what seemed intuitive and went by the book then changed the position of the cable using the knurled knobs to get the pin back in.
Idle is much better, around 1200 on the hose. Seems much more responsive in the driveway. Have to get it in the water to check fully.
The one weird thing I am noticing is that the idle stop doesn't go all the way back when you turn the engine off. You can push it back by hand and the idle adjustment goes back to the stop.
The idle adjustment stop is also tied to the timing rod which in turn is connected to a swivel or plate underneath the flywheel that has a wire attached at one side. .
That wire ultimately is bundled with a couple more wires. Almost seems like that return should have a spring on it.
Is this normal? Could that shaft need grease? Is vacuum suppose to pull back when you go to idle?
I am not able to verify timing in the driveway, but it seems like it starts and runs good. I changed out plugs for new ones just so I know they are new. I even practiced pull starting today in case of an emergency with a dead battery and it started 1st try.
Other than the idle not returning fully to it's stop, I think the throttle will be in a different slope of the cam and I will see a difference trying to find 3,000-3,500 rpms and WOT should be higher.
Best regards,
Doug
Edited by dougt on 08/05/14 - 2:39 PM
1996 Sport GLS 13' - 1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 Stroke
I have a 1999 johnson 50hp. J50pleea is the serial number.
I have no issue with the rpm at mid range, or any range,.
I have those wires under the fly wheel zip.tied to a cam or other linkage connected to the carbs. Prevents the idle.stop reaching.stop but i idle around 900 or so acclrding to a tach i. Have, when i force it to the stop rpm dont change much at all lesd then 50 or no deflection, but i do know they go down, the motor.shakes a lot more and quiets up a bit. But seems like its struggling.to stay on, like.its too low.
I wanted to snip the cable tie, but i didnt. My motor for now, starts on first turn of.key or second depending on fuel and ryns well.
Only issue is the boat wont stay at 4,000 rpm all the time because of changes in sea state and.wind, no cruise functiin, qhich isnt a fault if the motor.
Qhats that manual say for wot range? 5000_5500? I get around 5800 rpm with my boat at wot.
Yep JW,
I am not going to worry about the stop position being exact.
It probably runs a little high, but I want to see if the mid-range and WOT improves.
Sounds like you experience the same thing.
I think WOT is 5,500. Depending on weather I'll give her a test as soon as possible.
Thanks for the input,
Doug
Edited by dougt on 08/05/14 - 7:03 PM
1996 Sport GLS 13' - 1996 Johnson 40hp, 2 Stroke
Doug, to follow up on a some things you mentioned (apologies if you know this stuff already):
- as I recall, you are supposed to set the idle speed without the throttle cable connected at all
- the timing rod going up under the flywheel is to the timer base - it's what actually takes the spark trigger off the flywheel magnet
- the idle speed is set by varying the timing only; the throttle setting does not change
- as long as the idle speed is OK, and when you're setting it, the throttle butterflies on all carbs are fully closed, I would not worry about the throttle stop thing
- you don't need to do any setting of timing more than you already have. The manual probably talks about setting the WOT timing, but that should really never need changing unless you rebuild the motor. It's easy to screw up, so leave it alone
- 1200 RPMs on the muffs will probably be between 8 - 900 in the water, in gear. Maybe a whisker high, but better than stalling out.
- DON'T rev the motor more than about 2K on the muffs. You can have a runaway situation (even turning the key off won't help) and damage the motor or get someone hurt
Thanks tedious,
All good points and you are correct Sir.
I measured the timing rod at 2.5" which is where they recommend, so I didn't touch that.
When finally complete, they talk about setting the idle speed in the water by adjusting the idle adjustment screw. I guess that's if maybe you're a little low and stalling out.
