1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Original engine
Seamonkey2	#1  Posted on 07/14/14 - 10:15 AM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/14/14	This question has probably been asked 1,000 times so here goes 1,001. What would be the "most likely" original engine installed OE on a 1985 17' Montauk? Just acquired this boat and it has been hanging in a boat house for the last 10 years. It's currently powered by a 2000 Johnson 90 and I'm thinking I don't want to sink a bunch of money in it. I already have an anchor don't need another. The boat is currently disassembled and I might as well look at the repower before putting things back together.
MG56	#2  Posted on 07/14/14 - 11:01 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 357 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/11/13	It really depends on who sold the boat & what engines they were pushing, but most likely a Mercury or John/rude. I don't see what difference that makes unless you want a vintage correct re-power.
Joe Kriz	#3  Posted on 07/14/14 - 11:10 AM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Boston Whaler did not sell boats with motors on them back then. Putting a motor on was left up to the dealer or the new owner and whatever brand they wanted. You have the same choice now. Put any brand on it you want. Today is different. You can buy a Whaler with any motor you want on it, as long as it is a Mercury.
Seamonkey2	#4  Posted on 07/14/14 - 1:22 PM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/14/14	Thanks to all. I'm used to re storing cars and trucks and I'm trying to apply the car logic to boats. It just makes sense if you're going to put a bunch of time and money into something it ought to be as correct as possible for the era. Looks like a Merc in my future. Or maybe I will give an ETec a try. The lady of the house will vote me off the island if I leave this smoking / stinker on it.
Finnegan	#5  Posted on 07/14/14 - 2:52 PM
Member Posts: 1926 Comments: 16 Joined: 05/02/08	In 1985 there were probably 4 engines most often sold on a Montauk, and the great majority of Whaler dealerships handled OMC, either Johnson or Evinrude at the time. If Mercury, the engine would have either been an in-line-6 90HP or an in-line-4 75HP. If OMC, it would have been either the V-4 90HP or in-line-3 70HP. 90 has been the overwhelming choice of HP for the boat, all years. The boat can handle 115HP and some people go for that HP on a re-power. I am sympathetic to your "keeping it classic" argument, which is what I did when I found and bought a barely used 1979 Montauk a few years ago. The boat and original engine, a 1979 Evinrude v-4 100HP, had only 250 original hours on it, but being a Mercury guy, the Evinrude look did not cut it for me. So I traded it out for a same year Merc 115 "tower". I'm very happy with the result: http://smg.photobucket.com/user/lgolt...8598970253 I now have just what i wanted, all vintage 1979. If you are going 3-star, and like Mercury, take a look at their brand new 2.1 liter 4-stroke 90 EFI, just now hitting the market. It's only 39# heavier than the small cube E-tec 90, and should be a real powerhouse with the large displacement. This is the most recently designed new 90 HP 3-star now on the market. The 115 should be considered, since it is the same weight.
Seamonkey2	#6  Posted on 08/05/14 - 5:47 PM
Member Posts: 10 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/14/14	Good news. I took the old Johnson 90 to the boat doctor and had the carbs gone through, lower unit checked and a new water pump. I also talked to an old "OMC" boat mechanic and he suggested that I disable the VRO and go to pre mix. I figured that I've been doing that since the beginning of time and maybe I have become spoiled by the 4 stroke I have on the other boat. But that's the way to go on these old VRO engines! Pre mix with synthetic TCW 3 oil. NO SMOKE! and it's running like a top. I am now able to keep the retro look which I wanted all along and hopefully I won't have a hand grenade.
dgoodhue	#7  Posted on 08/06/14 - 4:54 AM
Member Posts: 278 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/04/05	I disagree with disabling the VRO unless it is broken and dumping a bunch oil into engine. Everything I have read is the OMC VRO fails running rich. My engine smokes enough as is with Variable oil injection, why spend time and money to make it smokier at idle, have to premix the fuel, & use more oil? IMO the only advantage to eliminating the VRO is deck space gained from the oil reservoir. My boat has the original VRO from 1989, as long as it continues to work it is staying my boat. If its working I would leave it. Dave
dgoodhue	#8  Posted on 08/06/14 - 5:00 AM
Member Posts: 278 Comments: 0 Joined: 10/04/05	Another 'old boat mechanic' misconception that the anti cavitation plate should be mounted parallel with bottom of the hull. When you install the motor make sure it is not mounted all the way down on the transom. It should be mounted atleast 2 holes up. Dave