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Thanks Mike. I think maybe next summer I'll restrip the interior of the boat (just spray painted it) and have someone do a nice job repainting the original blue tone. Don't have the $$$ or time this summer. I spent all last year working on the boat, this summer I want to use it!!! Been working on a helm seat based on the original design and hope to get that mounted soon. Gotta have the prop changed out and she will be ready to go fishing. Will probably have it down in Brewster in July.
I understand. I'm a diehard fisherman myself. If you need any help or suggestions, let me know. I've been around and worked on boats all my life. And by the way, my home town is Brewster. If you like surf casting for blues or stripers, the first full moon of July, with the outgoing tide at night, check out the end of Robbins Hill Rd. on the bay, walk straight out across the flats and follow the sound of the sea gulls and the stripers feeding on the sand eels. This is what used to be called, the Brewster Channel. This is the remains of an old fish weir that old Mac Reed (Mac Reed's Bait & Tackle next to Nonnies) used to work many years ago as a young man, Mac passed away some years ago. There was a time when I was growing up in Brewster that only us locals knew about this area for fishing, long before the fish guides "spilled the beans" about fishing this area. This spot is good for catching blues on an ounce and a quarter Atom Popper during the day at low tide as well. But it is a long walk. Just don't let yourself be caught on the bar when the tide starts coming in, because it comes in fast!
I don't know how badly oxidized your blue gel coat is, but you can try the 3-M cleaner/polish. It is a little more expensive than the others, but I have had excellent results with all the 3-M products I've ever used. It may not get rid of all of the oxidation with the first application, but you will have noticable results with it; and who knows, with a few applications it may save you the time and expense of having to redo the interior.
Hey Mike, yea, we go to the beach on the end there and also Payne's Creek and we see the guys out there at low tide. A lot of guys take their kayaks out and kayak in once the tide washes in.
Is there a ramp in that area? The only public one I am aware of is down in Dennisport.
My interior blue is long gone. The previous owner had all rough antiskid sprayed over the whole interior and I spent 2 months stripping the whole interior. I primed it with a good marine fiberglass primer but then just spray painted it dull tan for some duck hunting in the fall. It would be fairly easy to sand down to repaint but I would like to have someone do a good job of repainting a gel coat at some point...maybe next year, we'll see.
No boat ramps in Brewster that I'm aware of. Rock Harbor is a possibility, there is a ramp there, but you have the same tide in Orleans as you do in Brewster and you can't get in at low tide. Whereas in Dennis you can.
From the Dennis ramp it opens into a protected bay correct? Is that a decent place to take a 7-year old for some fishing or does that bay get too shallow?
Sorry, but there're no protected waters from either Rock Harbor or Sesuit Harbor. They both go right into Cape Cod Bay. If you plan your day with the forecast with light and variable winds from southerly directions you'll be fine witha seven year old, but if its blowing 10 - 15 its going to be a bumpy ride. Use your judgement, if it feels windy and it look rough, its going to be rough. Your best option for protected waters is Pleasant Bay. There're a couple of ramps in Orleans at Meeting House Pond, but the parking lots are small. There are a number of boat ramps for Pleasant Bay, in Orleans, Harwich, and Chatham. Pleasant Bay eventually leads to the Chatham Inlet. There's good fluke fishing around Strong Island and all throughout Chatham Inlet and Monomoy Island. I would suggest if you go to Pleasant Bay to get a chart from Nauset Marine.
I had my first power boat when I was fourteen and had it moored in Round Cove in Harwich (there's a ramp there as well). During my first year of exploring Pleasant Bay, I discovered where every single last sand bar is out there, the hard way. The following year I had the chart for Pleasant Bay, but it was too late. I already knew the places to avoid from "plowing for flounder" the previous year (here in the south they call it "plowing for catfish". By the way I used to live at the top of the hill on Paines Creek Rd.
See if you can find maps online of the Cape that will show you the boat ramps. I'm sure there's got to be at least one out there. If not, I know Butterworth puts out an atlas type map showing all the boat ramps.
Thanks. My friends parents actuelly live one house away from one of the ramps in Orleans that goes out to Pleasant Bay. I had a small duck boat I took out that way one summer but was a bit uncomfortable out in it with all the boat traffic. I'd be much happier in the Eastport.
Andy,
I'd like to share a little knowledge that you probably are already aware of. You may want to consider having a couple of fuel pump rebuild kits aboard this season. Last year was the first year the ethanol blended gasoline came out in the NE, and it raised havoc with a lot of outboards fuel system components. I have a friend who's a mobile marine mechanic based out of Wareham and was swamped servicing fuel pumps on both old and new two-cycle outboards last season because of how quickly the ethanol deteriorated the pump's diaphrams. The first two indications that your fuel pump may need to be serviced: (1) the engine may sound like its not running properly and (2) you'll see a noticable oil sheen at the back of your boat when the engine is idling (this indicates a torn diaphram). Some of the older OMC engines had nonserviceable fuel pumps which means the whole pump had to be replaced. Others are servicable with just a fuel pump rebuild kit. I'm not sure about your engine. It would be a worthwhile investment to have an engine repair manual on board for your particular engine. Seloc publishes one, but my personal preference is Clymer, available at Boaters World. It will help you identify engine components and tell you whether or not you can service your fuel pump (its not that difficult). It will also help you diagnose any engine problems. The three basic rules for two-cycle engines to run properly are fuel, compression, and ignition. If you do get replacement parts, ask for Sierra replacements. They're good quality and less expensive than the engine manufacturers parts. I suggest servicing the fuel pump first because it is simpler and less costly than having to rebuild your carburators, though there's always that possibility because the high speed needle valve that rides on the float has a rubber tip. Its possible you may be servicing the fuel pump every year at a minimum. Its still a little early to tell. To help prolong the life of these rubber components I would suggest disconnecting the fuel line and let the engine run out of gas if the boat is not going to be used for awhile. Also consider the StarTron Gasoline Additive (blue bottle). This will help burn off the water that this ethanol/alcohol attracts. If you have steel fuel tanks they're going to rust faster on the inside because of the new blended gas. You may want to consider replacing them with plastic tanks. The twenty-seven gallon tanks fit nicely under the helms. But do double check your measurements if you go this route. You'll be surprised how quickly your fuel filter will load up with rust particles. Hopefully you'll have a frustration free season.
Funny that you mention that Mike because the boat yard that just installed my engine suggested installing a fuel filter in the gas line because of the new ethanol based fuel additives and the water problems they have seen ove the past year or so. I told them absolutely go and do it. I've put this much time in trying to get the boat into halfway decent shape and installing a decent outboard that I wasn't going to belabor $100 for that preventive measure.
. By the way I used to live at the top of the hill on Paines Creek Rd. 
