Mounting Bow Light with Chocks
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rogerhoward |
Posted on 08/25/10 - 2:31 PM
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I picked up a recreation of the classic whaler bow light with chocks and I'm wondering about the installation - is the lip that extends down meant to go over or under the rub rail? If under the rub rail, does that mean cutting the receiver track to make room and then run the black rubber insert over the lip? Thanks!
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DWinter |
Posted on 08/25/10 - 4:13 PM
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The factory one mounts over the stock rubrail.
Duane G Winter
1984 BW Sport 15 Center Console |
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rogerhoward |
Posted on 08/25/10 - 4:17 PM
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Whew! THat's what I wanted to hear
Since the edge of the rubrail isn't flush with the deck, the light doesn't sit flush... I'm planning on cutting a piece of thin mahogany the shape of the base of the light to use as a shim to make it nice and level, and to get rid of the gap between the light and the deck (the through-hull where I passed the electric wire is nicely sealed, but I just don't like the look of the gap)... does that make sense?
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 08/25/10 - 4:24 PM
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Almost all the Classic bow lights had gaps.
See the attachment for a 1977 Montauk 17'. My 1978 Montauk was the same.
Joe Kriz attached the following image:
[48.6Kb]
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rogerhoward |
Posted on 08/25/10 - 4:41 PM
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That's reassuring - I'm going to try out the wooden base/shim idea tonight but it's good to know that's normal.
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John Fyke |
Posted on 08/25/10 - 6:15 PM
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Joe Kriz wrote:
Almost all the Classic bow lights had gaps.
See the attachment for a 1977 Montauk 17'. My 1978 Montauk was the same.
Yup. I have the original light on my 15 and it has a gap.
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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bottomfish |
Posted on 08/26/10 - 10:22 AM
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I made a wedge out of starboard. My new light now sits flush and the whole setup is caulked. It worked very well. Takes a little effort to get the right angle and fit but the finish is worth the time. My .02
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