Polishing stainless
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Bake |
Posted on 03/10/10 - 6:17 PM
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Steel wool does work great. I did not remove the the rail from the boat, that was my mistake. I just thought I would throw that out there based on a life lesson I had.
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modenacart |
Posted on 03/11/10 - 1:49 PM
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Steel wool does work great until some gets embedded in the stainless, then rust. I would use stainless steel wool or brass wool.
We had a corrosion expert teach a week long class at work and he was the one that recommended this. Once it gets embedded in the stainless, the rust can spread.
Edited by modenacart on 03/11/10 - 1:51 PM
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
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Guts |
Posted on 03/11/10 - 3:53 PM
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Scotch-bite pads are common is fabrication shops
Guts/AKA/Kim |
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modenacart |
Posted on 03/12/10 - 1:06 PM
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Scotch-bite pads are great, just stay way from bearings, the dust from the pads can cause failures.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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CES |
Posted on 03/12/10 - 1:14 PM
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I have a stainless prop that I have used Never dull on and I cannot seem to get a shiny lutser on it. Should I use a buffing wheel on it to get it to shine nicely?
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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Bake |
Posted on 03/12/10 - 3:52 PM
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That would be a start cliff. To make it shine you have to smooth the surface before you polish. That is what all the sanding talk is about above. you will have to work up to a really fine abrasive be it wet sanding or polish on a wheel.
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CES |
Posted on 03/12/10 - 3:59 PM
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Thanks bake.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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fredbrillo |
Posted on 03/13/10 - 5:31 AM
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Get yourself a can of Neverdull....its cotton wadding embedded with a stainless polish....its awesome....and one can will last years.
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