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Nothing on your gunwales looks wrong, they are to factory specs, as far as I can see. My confusion was as to how the coaming board and gunwale board intercept at the stern. Kevin was kind enough to send me some detailed photos of the area, including one with the end cap off. The coaming board runs all the way to the end of the gunwale board and is cut to match the profile of the top board. The confusion was that I, as a want-a-be cabinet maker, retired builder, custom picture framer, would have done in another way. Did not mean to imply that anything was odd with your boat.
By the way, your new photo confirms the above, thanks again.
Edited by Blackduck on 12/19/09 - 7:59 AM
Walter Reynolds
1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
No worries Walt, I didn't think you thought something was wrong, I just wanted to give you an idea of what I knew was original and what was not on that '87. I'm glad the pics have helped. The boat is currently sitting in a temporary winter garage beside my shop right now so I can take additional detail pics if you need them. I will have it in the shop over the winter putting some maintenance coats of varnish on the wood. The owner also wants the seats reupholstered and a few other things. Anyway, if you feel like making some details different for your teak gunwales, then why not? If it works, and you like it better, then I say go for it.
HarleyFXDL wrote:
As to the cracks in the gunwhales, what is the best way to repair any cracks?
Kevin,
Someone else may have a better answer for this, but the '87 I worked on had some minor cracks and small holes in the gunwales when I refinished them. I wasn't going for perfection, but I wanted them to look good. Once we had stripped all the varnish, I coated the gunwales with a couple coats of West System 105/207 epoxy and really let it soak into the cracks. I recall there being one part that I clamped together allowing the epoxy to cure and bond. You can still see some of the cracks if you look closely, but they're water tight and the varnish over top is smooth. There are other ways to deal with it, but that's what I did and it held up fine this past summer.
Chris, there is one split in the port side gunwale that goes from the end of the board forward about 4"-5". The crack is about 1/16" at it's widest. I was hoping to repair the board rather than replacing it.
Kevin
1988 11' Super Sport, 1987 Johnson 15hp.
If you think education is expensive, try ignorance
"Vegetarian - old Indian word for bad fisherman."
HarleyFXDL wrote:
Chris, there is one split in the port side gunwale that goes from the end of the board forward about 4"-5". The crack is about 1/16" at it's widest. I was hoping to repair the board rather than replacing it.
Hi Kevin,
Hmmmm... That's pretty wide. You may have to remove the board in order to repair it and make it look good. If you put epoxy (or possibly wood glue) in the crack and clamped it together to cure, it should turn out fine. That's providing upon reinstallation it doesn't get forced apart again by a screw or bung, etc. Do you have any pictures of the crack?
Kevin,
The best way (as mentioned above) would probably be remove it, epoxy it, clamp it, sand it, re-install it. put a finish on it... the 6 "it's" lol
There is another way for the time & budget minded.
Sand it down real good & keep the teak dust handy.
Blow out the crack real good with an air hose.
Wipe a damp rag of acetone over the crack allowing some to go down into the crack. (don't drench itl) let it dry for a couple of minutes so it doesn't look wet.
The surface should not feal oily at this point.
Take blue masking tape & tape along the sides of the crack so only the crack is exposed.
Mix west system 105 & 205 together....mix teak dust into the epoxy. Add enough dust to create a past color the same as the teak boad you are filling
Push the teak dust filled epoxy into the cracks until full.
Smooth the top of the epoxy to the level of the blue tape.
Remove tape after the glue has st up a little. Do not leave the tape on over night for the epoxy to dry to it. It creats a mess.
Next day, sand it & its ready to finish.
In some cases i've used stain over the repaired area to make a closer match. making the filled crack look more like grain or blended to make it virtually unnoticeable.
