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I would be very careful if you consider the "tie to the dock" suggestion for loading the outboard!!! Murphy's Law comes to mind...
I would attempt to source a large enough tank (plastic or metal) that would allow full submersion of the lower unit and test engine load in this fashion. Another option would be simply back the boat and trailer as if launching at the ramp (or fresh water access) and with boat still secured to the trailer check clearance and lower outboard to test. The resistance of the trailer and tow vehicle will allow the outboard to load up quickly (Remember to chalk-up your tow vehicles rear or front wheels to avoid slippage at the ramp!!!)
I would agree with VA Whalers input, reed valves are quite durable and unless your outboard has serious carbon build-up, or accidentally ingested a foreign object through a carb, or finally...the poor Merc has been raced to death, reeds just don't break-down that easily.
For carbon control I have used a product from Yamaha labeled "Ring-Free" (if my memory serves correct). I use it with every fourth or fifth tank fill as it is quite potent and can cause damage if abused. It does break down carbon build up in the combustion chamber and all other related areas.
Most definitely inspect your fuel delivery circuit carefully from tank to fuel/water separator (if in use) to any other fuel filters to the outboard. Check all hose clamps, condition of fuel hoses (externally and internally at connections) and review your "re-built" fuel pump for a possible vacuum leak. You would be surprised with what a small air intrusion could do to fuel pressure...
Hope this helps...happy boating.
Angel M.
Edited by dauntless-n-miami on 02/20/17 - 9:51 AM
1996 Dauntless 15, Sportsman Pkg. - 2007 Yamaha 90 HP 2-Stroke
I would be very careful if you consider the "tie to the dock" suggestion for loading the outboard!!! Murphy's Law comes to mind...
I would attempt to source a large enough tank (plastic or metal) that would allow full submersion of the lower unit and test engine load in this fashion. Another option would be simply back the boat and trailer as if launching at the ramp (or fresh water access) and with boat still secured to the trailer check clearance and lower outboard to test. The resistance of the trailer and tow vehicle will allow the outboard to load up quickly (Remember to chalk-up your tow vehicles rear or front wheels to avoid slippage at the ramp!!!)
I would agree with VA Whalers input, reed valves are quite durable and unless your outboard has serious carbon build-up, or accidentally ingested a foreign object through a carb, or finally...the poor Merc has been raced to death, reeds just don't break-down that easily.
For carbon control I have used a product from Yamaha labeled "Ring-Free" (if my memory serves correct). I use it with every fourth or fifth tank fill as it is quite potent and can cause damage if abused. It does break down carbon build up in the combustion chamber and all other related areas.
Most definitely inspect your fuel delivery circuit carefully from tank to fuel/water separator (if in use) to any other fuel filters to the outboard. Check all hose clamps, condition of fuel hoses (externally and internally at connections) and review your "re-built" fuel pump for a possible vacuum leak. You would be surprised with what a small air intrusion could do to fuel pressure...
Hope this helps...happy boating.
Angel M.
Thoughts please on checking for a vacuum leak, my neighbor said to spray some starter fluid and see if the motor revs up any, it evaporates quickly, hate to have a flash fire
Have you had a chance to try adjusting the carbs in gear yet? You'll know pretty quickly if it works before you have to start chasing other theories.
These are very simple engines and run well with everything set up correctly, you need enough fuel under load from both carbs at idle speed. You should be able to hear the engine smooth out as you get the settings right.
Don't overthink the idle speed in gear thing, a decent stern line through one of the stern eyes will hold the boat just fine. Put a fender over the side and then turn slightly towards the dock so the boat stays against the dock. With all due respect to others, it's a small outboard not big sport fisher. I set the in gear idle speed on my carbed 260 Mercruiser stern drive this way, you'll be fine....
The starter fluid trick will work if you suspect an air leak between the carbs and the cylinders, but Angel was referring to a leak in the fuel lines so the carbs are sucking some air along with the fuel - starter fluid will not work to detect that. Angel is quite right that even a tiny air leak will make a big difference in performance - however, it would be most apparent at speed, rather than idle.
If you are setting the idle on the muffs, out of the water, you're missing two things vs. being in the water: 1) exhaust back pressure, and 2) load from the prop. Once you get the boat in the water, tied to the dock, and in gear at idle, you may actually have trouble keeping it running long enough to make any adjustments. If so, first try just making the adjustments in neutral, and see if that will keep you running long enough to make any final tweaks with it in gear.
And yes, while you'll want to make sure you're safely tied to the dock, you'll only be running at idle so it's not going to pull all that hard.
