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Failure to mount the engine at the correct and install a correctly sized propeller will lug or over-rev your motor and cause damage.
You want the motor mounted at leasttwo holes up. Could be higher depending on the propeller.
You also want the dealer to install a stainless steel propeller of the correct size and pitch so when the boat is lightly loaded with fuel and gear, it reaches to midrange of the manufacturer's wide open throttle.
You are spending north of $8K, get your money's worth and make sure your dealer does a proper job.
Top set of engine bolts, top of transom looking toward bow
0
0
0 <--- Engine bolt here is 2 holes up
0
The holes in the transom are in standard locations, what hole the bolt uses on the bracket is the variable.
So just to be certain, if I mount two holes up and used the standard aluminum propeller for the time being, my boat wont cavitate on tight medium and high speed turns? I want to make sure I have the motor set for optimal handling, quickness to plane, top speed, and fuel efficiency.
The manual says to mount the motor with the cavitation plate even with the bottom of the hull. Do you think mounting engine with this 1 inch higher could void my warranty?
Cavitation plate 1 inch above keel is no problem at all. 1 1/2 inch should also be ok even with the alu prop. (But you should consider a ss prop if you want better handling)
That should be about two holes up. But it may differ between different brands. My Suzuki is at least 1 inch above the keel with only one hole up. I will probably raise it on more hole when I have time.
Be there when the motor is mounted to be sure it gets on the correct height.
A few recommendations based on my experience with a Montauk.
If you are planning on using a Tohatsu aluminum propeller (I don't know how good they are in holding)
and for offshore Pacific boating, I would only mount the enigne one bolt hole up. That is per Whaler's specification and will assure you good holding under all conditions. If I was going to run an aluminum prop, I would use a Mercury Black Max/Quicksilver Black Diamond instead (19" pitch will give 42 MPH top end), since I know they hold very well and give great performance for aluminum. Maybe your dealer will substitute one of those for you. Since Mercury and Tohatsu have been working together for years building engines, maybe Tohatsu uses Merc props. I just don't know. I do know that mercury Black Max prop can usually be run 2 holes up also, but individual engine shaft length could be a factor. Some are "taller" than others.
If you want really the best performance from the engine, which has the common 2.33 gear ratio I believe, a Mercury Laser II/Quicksilver Lightspeed prop would do the job, 20" pitch, 45 MPH. They are the best prop you can run on a Montauk period, and better than a Stiletto (which I have also tried - not as good). In this case you would want the engine up two holes, and you will not have any loss of holding. If 20" pitch is too much, the Laser II is also made in 19" pitch, but not the Quicksilver version.
Shipped they are about $350, including hub kit, but check out Ebay for used ones first.
For safest engine installation, and for sound caulking to prevent water intrusion into the lower bolt holes, bolts at the bottom should go in from the outside, and from the inside at the top.
So the engine is mounted, and now I am just waiting for the binnacle control and a few gauges to arrive. With some luck, I'll have it in the water this weekend.
Regarding how many holes up, I shared what you all recommended, but he mounted it all of the way down anyway. He said that mounted this way, the cavitation plate is about one inch above e bottom of the hull. The engine was tilted, so I couldn't tell for sure, but it did look like it would be about where he said once the engine is down. Also, I noticed a gap between the top of the transom and where the engine would have touched had it been all of the way down. So who know... maybe Tohatsus have shorter lower units.
Either way, it's looking really good, and I can't wait to get it out in the water.
Ask the mechanic "How many empty bolt holes ABOVE the bolt in the top bracket? If he says 2, you are good. If 1, the motor is mounted TOO LOW.
Not clear?, take a photo showing the back of the transom and motor bracket /bolts, upload it and add a link so we can see.
You are the customer. He should do what you tell him.
You tell him "mount the motor 2 holes up". If it's not that way, he needs to remount the motor at no cost to you.
What is the point of spending time on this board, getting solid knowledge from members and then not following through? It is your $ 8,000.+++ to spend.
Take a picture showing the vertical distance between the keel and the A/V plate when the plate is parallell to the keel. That is wat's important not how many holes as they may be on slightely different height in the transom on different boats and also the A/V plate may be on different height on different engine brands.
Edited by Petrus on 08/21/14 - 6:26 AM
1997 Montauk 17, Suzuki DF90A
Just to echo Phil's comments above, when I repowered a couple of years ago, I brought in a lot of printed out research notes from this website to help get the installation correct. A lot of the dealers seem to think that you're telling them how to do their job if you give them input on the installation when really all we want is a proper set up; I thought I was going to end up in a fist fight with their service manager for a few seconds. Fortunately, he started to listen and look at what I was asking for. As the ultimate compliment to the brain trust on this site, he told me at delivery that my boat was the best set up he'd ever seen for a 90 ETEC, everything was dead on to Evinrude's specifications. Good luck, stand your ground and keep your cool, as Phil said above at the end of the day it's your money.
