Polishing stainless
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modenacart |
Posted on 01/09/10 - 1:09 PM
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I thought about using sandpaper to polish the stainless rails and progressively move up to about 1200 grit or so. Does anyone see a reason why I shouldn't do this?
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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Tom W Clark |
Posted on 01/09/10 - 2:41 PM
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No.
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modenacart |
Posted on 01/09/10 - 5:26 PM
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Great, thanks.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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number9 |
Posted on 01/09/10 - 5:51 PM
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Try a Goggle search for how to sand stainless to get some tips on methods and grits.
Bill...On the Ogeechee
1984 Outrage 18...Yamaha T50...that's right, 50hp |
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MW |
Posted on 01/10/10 - 5:09 AM
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I use "Bon Ami" cleanser (for over 100 years, it has'nt scratched yet) !
Matt |
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ugageo |
Posted on 01/10/10 - 5:44 AM
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Never Dull works great too and one can will last a long time.
Mike |
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martinmarine |
Posted on 01/10/10 - 6:02 AM
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modenacart wrote:
I thought about using sandpaper to polish the stainless rails and progressively move up to about 1200 grit or so. Does anyone see a reason why I shouldn't do this?
The 1200 grit will still leave a slight haze on the stainless. To get a mirror finish, use progressively finer sand paper up to 600 grit. After the 600 grit paper, follow with an emory compound (usually black) on a sisal wheel. For the final buff, use a stainless steel compound (usually white) on a spiral sewn buff.
Raymond
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mattgeiger |
Posted on 01/10/10 - 7:36 AM
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Flitz applied then buffed with their drill-mounted chamois-wheel is great for heavier cleaning. For minor stains/waterspots Nevr Dull is good.
Cape Dory 28
Hobie 20 Miracle
A Class Catamaran |
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alexjeter |
Posted on 01/10/10 - 12:03 PM
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I have had excellent results using FLITZ. Try it you will be extremely happy with this product. Good Luck
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coopgraphic |
Posted on 01/11/10 - 4:44 AM
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I agree...FLITZ is wonderful. I use it on my rails and on all of my marinium parts. Brings everything up to a very nice shine.
Chris Cooper |
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themclos |
Posted on 01/11/10 - 9:14 AM
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I have had great success using Wenol Metal Polisher.
Regardless of which product you try (many people have had good success with a number of products), I would strongly suggest you try a metal cleaner/polisher before you determine if sandpaper is the way to go.
I would also suggest you consider the finest level (000 or Triple Zero) steel wool before sandpaper.
Dan
Dan
1986 22 Outrage Cuddy, 2002 225HP Optimax |
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dauntless-n-miami |
Posted on 01/11/10 - 9:59 AM
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I would advise against using sand paper as a polishing media. Regardless of grits used you will ultimately leave very fine micro scratches in the finish. Unless you are looking for a brushed or satin type finish for your railings. With time and exposure oxidation will become more noticable because of the micro fine scratches left by the sanding. I would go with the polishing compounds and try to achieve the best possible mirror finsh you can. Alot of elbow grease and rags but, you'll be satisfied at the end.
Angel
1996 Dauntless 15, Sportsman Pkg. - 2007 Yamaha 90 HP 2-Stroke |
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Blackduck |
Posted on 01/11/10 - 10:20 AM
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I just built a 5' all-round light using a 5 foot piece of mill finished stainless tubing. I started with 180 grit, and worked up to 800 grit, and finished with some polishing compounds. After many, many, hours, I reached a mirror finish, no scratches. As long as you sand long enough, with finer and finer grits, it does not matter how coarse a grit you use to start out with.
Walter Reynolds
1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha |
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Guts |
Posted on 01/11/10 - 10:39 AM
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Metal fabrication shops sand and grain stainless steel every day, [i.e.. restraint hoods] and such.
I see no reason why it can't be done. But I would do this as a last resort, after trying softer polishes first.
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westcoastwhaler |
Posted on 01/11/10 - 10:41 AM
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I have great success with a buffing wheel and rouge (sp?) on my bench grinder to polish stainless. After polishing, I clean off the residue and apply wax.
For upkeep I use never-dull.
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jakie |
Posted on 03/09/10 - 8:18 AM
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This past January, I started to clean up the stainless steel railings (bow & side) for my 15 foot Whaler. After about a week of trying Never Dull, my arms got tired. I visited the local hardware store and I purchased two cloth wheels that is attached to an electric drill and used a "white" rogue. It took me one weekend to polish the railings. I don't have any photos, but the railings is for a 1976 boat that was in storage (covered) for the past 15 years. A mechanic that saw the railings "before" and "after" was impressed. Hopes this helps.
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dprice |
Posted on 03/09/10 - 11:33 AM
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I've had good luck with Starbrite Chrome & Stainless Polish.
Don Price |
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Bake |
Posted on 03/10/10 - 8:42 AM
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One caution.. One above post mentioned steel wool. It works great but it is very difficult to clean up all the little pieces of steel after polishing. The steel left behind will rust and stain the gel coat if not removed.
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themclos |
Posted on 03/10/10 - 9:17 AM
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I use steel wool of various grades along with metal polish to polish and recondition stainless steel.
It is a good point to mention that steel wool leaves behind many alot of metal dust that are prone to rust.
I only use steel wool when I am able to remove the stainless component from the boat and I am able to work on the piece in my basement or garage. Even if you are working near the boat, a strong breeze can still blow the steel wool dust onto your boat.
Bronze wool is best used when polishing stainless while still on the boat.
Dan
1986 22 Outrage Cuddy, 2002 225HP Optimax |
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modenacart |
Posted on 03/10/10 - 2:13 PM
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In my opinion steel wool should never be used to clean stainless.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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