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Epoxy type?
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| bottomfish |
Posted on 08/18/09 - 10:00 AM
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I am going to drill and hollow out some foam then fill with epoxy to provide a solid point to mount my bow locker hinges. I have read on this site how it is done but no one mentions what type of epoxy except a slow cure. Does anyone have a product name or part #. McMaster Carr has a multitude of different types I am just not sure which to choose. Any help would be appreciated?
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| Phil T |
Posted on 08/18/09 - 11:06 AM
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You can use a polyester based product like Gorilla Glue or West Systems among the many brands.
Here is an article by Joe
Here is a decent article on repairing screw holes from West System's website.
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| CES |
Posted on 08/18/09 - 11:13 AM
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I used West systems 105 resin with 206 hardener to do exactly what you're planning on doing. I filled the holes two years ago, screwed in the anchor locker hinge screws and they have been holding up ever since.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| bottomfish |
Posted on 08/18/09 - 11:59 AM
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CES, is that just a fiberglass resin? I am trying to find something that is not to brittle. I have heard that resins can be. Have you had the screws out since then? How does the resin look? I am asking alot of questions as I want to do it well.
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| Guts |
Posted on 08/18/09 - 2:26 PM
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Wayne how big is this void? if you look at my PP you will sea the hole I drilled for my thru hull transducer three inch around. I used west system to fill it. What I found out... this is a slow process, it can Not be pored in one shot!!! it had to be done a little at a time. the Heat that it created is incredible, The heat will set it off faster and it will crack, it's a catch 22 thing.I thought it was going to catch the foam on fire - really. I pored it a ¼" at a time with layers of fiber glass mat and and fiber glass cloth,I also used 405 colloidal silica in the resin. I'm not going into this any further, not sure if this if this is what you are asking about. A slow cure I think would be a good choice. I think it depends on the volume of the fill.
Kim
Edited by Guts on 08/18/09 - 2:38 PM |
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| bottomfish |
Posted on 08/18/09 - 3:16 PM
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Kim, I am creating the void to provide a solid base to screw into. Just trying to find a durable and non-brittle filler with good fiberglass adhesion. If I do this with my hinges and bimini mounts I should never pull a screw. So I guess the void would be approx 1" deep x 2" long to hold the 2 screws. Trying to make an informed decision since once it is in you wouldn't want to redo it. Thanks, Wayne
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| Guts |
Posted on 08/18/09 - 5:06 PM
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Wayne I will try to make a drawing and email you I think it would be the best way to describe it.
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| Binkie |
Posted on 08/18/09 - 5:29 PM
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No epoxy can be considered brittle. Concrete is brittle and will break if hit with a big enough hammer.
I just use 2 part slow set epoxy from Home Depot. You need slow set as after you mix it, you need to pour it into something that you can inject into the hole and it has to have time to settle into the void and fill it. Gorilla Glue works as well with a lot less hassle.
Rich |
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| CES |
Posted on 08/19/09 - 6:40 AM
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bottomfish wrote:
CES, is that just a fiberglass resin? I am trying to find something that is not to brittle. I have heard that resins can be. Have you had the screws out since then? How does the resin look? I am asking alot of questions as I want to do it well.
I forgot to mention I also used a 406 Colloidal Silica Filler to thicken the epoxy too
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| bottomfish |
Posted on 08/19/09 - 7:20 AM
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Thanks guys! should I shred mat to add some fiber to it or just go strait liquid.
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| Mr T |
Posted on 08/19/09 - 8:34 AM
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Use the west system 105/205 with the collloidal filles to make it as thick or thin as you want. I've used it on a number of boats for rail and bimini mounts, and it works great.
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| CES |
Posted on 08/19/09 - 9:51 AM
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Sorry bottomfish, I didn't fully answer your questions.
With the colloidal filler mixed in with the epoxy resin, I was able to fill the screw holes completely with no issues. No, I have not had the screws out of the holes. I filled the holes two summers ago, attached two hinges to my anchor locker and they have held firm ever since. I open and close the anchor locker almost every time we take the boat out on the water and the west systems products seem to be holding up very well.
Keep asking questions. If one person cannot answer what you're asking, another one will chime in and fill in the blanks.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| bottomfish |
Posted on 08/19/09 - 10:31 AM
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Cliff, thanks for that. Sounds like the west systems product should do fine. How was the heat as it cured?
As Kim mentioned above heat is always an issue with two part stuff. Some of that stuff gets pretty hot.
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| Finnegan |
Posted on 08/19/09 - 11:37 AM
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You guys are making making it way overcomplicated. For resetting stripped out screws of any type, for LIGHT LOADS where there is no wood/Whalerboard backing under the glass, just drill out the hole twice the diameter of the existing screw, and fill with one-step White Marine-Tex (which is an epoxy paste), forcing it into the hole competely with a putty knife, then sanding and polishing flush. It will push into the foam and under the glass enough for a good grip. All this assuming the fitting you are screwing in will cover the enlarged hole, which most do, as you can't put gelcoat over the epoxy. Then punch and re-drill the epoxy plug for the screws.
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| Guts |
Posted on 08/19/09 - 12:43 PM
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Wayne I think you have a good sense of what you are doing. When you make the "pocket" I would cut it with a router... The reason is that it will leave round corners. I say this because I believe it helps with stress cracks coming from right angle / or 90° corners. Put some resin on all five sides with a brush.. then have some fiber glass mat torn up - to the point as it looks like single fibers. Now put them in the pocket to bond with the resin that you brushed in the pocket, this will hold the fibers in place. Take the brush and wet the fibers again, then stop and let cure. With the fibers being in lose this will let you make a blanket of fiber glass on all five sides, not like a single piece. Then build up the resin (west system) with more small pieces of mat let cure, this may take two three times depending on the thickness. Using colloidal silica Will help thicken the resin, but the main thing is Not to apply too much at a time, I think one ¼" thick would be max...
I would think a piece of wood in the center would be good filler and bond for the screws. A hard wood like bubinga would be a good choice. Just a Thought - ok...
Kim
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| bottomfish |
Posted on 08/19/09 - 12:51 PM
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Kim, I was thinking of putting glass in with the epoxy just as you say to save the potential of a split. Seems like a worth while thing to do. If all goes well I will do the same for my bimini mounts as well. I like permanant fixes. I have had to many pulled screws in the past with my 2 whalers. Thanks for the input. Wayne
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| number9 |
Posted on 08/19/09 - 2:35 PM
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Do most of ya'll put the screws in wet or wait for cure and then drill for self-tapping screw? Does any body wait for cure then drill and tap for machine screws? West just says put them in wet but to use mold release if later removal is planned. Thanks.
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| modenacart |
Posted on 08/19/09 - 4:21 PM
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I would wait until dry, screw and fill the hole with either 5200 or 4200, then screw into the hole.
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| kevincook |
Posted on 08/19/09 - 7:23 PM
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I use the West System epoxy. If the hole is on a horizontal surface you don't need to add any filler. Add the colloidal silica filler to thicken up the epoxy to whatever viscosity you like to prevent it from running out of any vertical holes.
Kevin
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| bottomfish |
Posted on 08/20/09 - 7:41 AM
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Ok, well I purchased the West System 105 & 206 as well as the silica as I plan on doing this multiple times. I should be done buffing out the interior this week so rigging can comence next week. Thanks for the suggestions I will update as to the results. Wayne
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