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1998 60 hp 2-cycle low oil switch
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| heimtun |
Posted on 06/27/16 - 6:17 AM
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I've isolated my motor alarm to the low oil sensor. I had tested it earlier by putting a meter on the leads and turning the tank upside down - I heard the float move and the switch seemed to work. Now when tank is in place and oil is in tank the switch seems to indicate that tank is empty.
Is it common that switch is OK but the float is not - i.e. the float does not float?
TIA
Wayne
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| fitz73222 |
Posted on 06/27/16 - 4:18 PM
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When you tested the switch without the float in proximity did it show no continuity and when you let the float come down and get in close proximty did the switch close and show continuity on your ohm meter? It's a magnetic switch and the float closes the circuit and connects the signal to the warning module and sounds the piezo horn under your dash.
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| heimtun |
Posted on 06/28/16 - 5:43 PM
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fitz73222 wrote:
When you tested the switch without the float in proximity did it show no continuity and when you let the float come down and get in close proximty did the switch close and show continuity on your ohm meter? It's a magnetic switch and the float closes the circuit and connects the signal to the warning module and sounds the piezo horn under your dash.
Thanks for your reply fits. I ran the test a week ago and don't remember exactly... I had the tank out, with the tank upright there was connectivity between the contacts, I then turned the tank upside down, heard what I thought was the float flop down - there was then no connectivity between the contacts.
I hope this makes sense and you can offer some guidance and/or explanation
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 06/28/16 - 5:50 PM
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If the tank is sending out the warning alarm, then by disconnecting the wiring, the sound should stop.
If the sound does not stop after disconnecting the tank wiring, then the tank is not sending out that alarm sound.
Here is info on OMC motors. Maybe it is similar to other motors.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...ticle_id=9
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| heimtun |
Posted on 06/28/16 - 6:00 PM
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Thanks for your input Joe. Disconnecting one wire from the tank switch does in fact stop the alarm.
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| fitz73222 |
Posted on 06/29/16 - 2:12 AM
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OK,
Just to make sure. Remove the switch from the bottom of the tank, it has one screw the retains the switch in place. Disconnect the two wires. Connect your ohm meter to the blue switch wires. There should be no continuity, the meter if analog the needle will not move, if digital the display should show OL indicating the circuit is open which is good. If the needle moves or the digital display shows 0.000 or some resistance then the switch is bad. When you said you disconnected one of the wires to the switch and the horn stopped, you didn't mention if the tank was in normal position or upside down or I missed something. If the switch tests bad, it's only $20 to replace it. As far as the tank is concerned, if you hear the float moving up and down when you flip the tank over that's good and indicates that it is not stuck. I'm assuming you have disconnected the oil line from the bottom of the tank and drained the oil out of it? If so, this is the time to replace that oil line from the tank to the oil pump, you must use a replacement oil line from Mercury and not just regular clear vinyl hose. It comes in 15" lengths which will be enough to replace the hose and may need to be trimmed to the correct length. There is a procedure to restart the engine after you have replaced the oil line and refill the tank. DO NOT restart the engine without doing the procedure that I can walk you through once you have it back together.
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| heimtun |
Posted on 06/29/16 - 4:45 PM
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Here are the tests:
- empty tank right side up - wires removed from motor - continuity on wires
- empty tank upside down - wires removed from motor - no continuity
- full tank right side up - wires hooked up to motor - alarm sounds
- full tank right side up - one wire removed from motor - no alarm
It appears that the switch does works - what I'm wondering - is it possible that the float is not floating? Otherwise - am I missing something?
Thanks,
Wayne
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| fitz73222 |
Posted on 06/29/16 - 6:11 PM
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Sure sounds like the float is bad, the only way to repair it is replace the oil tank since it is molded into a chamber in the tank. Not worth the money in my opinion assuming you can find a new replacement. I have the exact same year and horsepower as you do. Bought it new in 1998 and now has almost 800 hours on it. I believe my sensor or float went bad at about 170 hours, unplugged the sensor and never worried about it again. This low oil sensor is for those who run their oil tanks down to low levels or don't pay attention to these things. I kind of equate it to an idiot light in an automobile, your engine has a visible gage in the front of the cowling that is about as good as it gets to seeing your oil level. I never let it go lower than a 1/2 tank, it's just routine. I have 5 active Mercs in service ranging from 1995 to 2000 and the 1998 60 hp is the best of the bunch, it's just bullet proof.
(please follow guideline #1 at the top of this page and use the full 4 digit year. Thanks)
Edited by Joe Kriz on 06/29/16 - 7:07 PM |
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| heimtun |
Posted on 06/29/16 - 7:37 PM
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Thanks again fitz for your feedback and info. I agree that keeping the tank more than half way full of oil will be the way to go. My calculations come up with aprox 36 gallons of gas for a full tank of oil - I only have 12 gallon capacity so I think I'll be safe.
Also good to hear your thought that I have 5 active Mercs ... the 1998 60 hp is the best of the bunch, it's just bullet proof.
I do have an unrelated follow-up question... I have a Sakonnet - do you have any thoughts on mpg and/or range with 12 gallons of fuel?
Wayne
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| fitz73222 |
Posted on 06/30/16 - 2:40 AM
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Hi Wayne,
As you can imagine, many things can effect range so I'll tell you the worst range you are going to get. First, the undisputed rule. A typical 2 stroke carbureted outboard will burn 10% of its rated horsepower in gallons per hour at full throttle. So the 60 hp in normal condition will burn 6 gallons per hour at full throttle. It simply cannot burn more fuel than that. So I'll assume you can get about 32 mph out of your hull with the engine turning its max 5500 rpm will give you 5.5 mpg or a 64 mile range when you run out of gas. Now of course you're not going to run the engine this way so your mpg should be at least 10-15% better at reasonable cruise, say 4200-4400 rpm and 25 mph. So if you plan your trips based on the 10%|rated hp rule=gph you will never run out of fuel under normal circumstances.
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| heimtun |
Posted on 06/30/16 - 4:58 AM
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Cool - that is really helpful!
Have a great weekend.
Edited by heimtun on 06/30/16 - 4:58 AM |
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| heimtun |
Posted on 07/31/16 - 7:55 AM
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DO NOT restart the engine without doing the procedure that I can walk you through once you have it back together.
Hi Fitz - I'm thinking of diving back into the low oil switch ... Could you tell me about the procedure you were talking about in this reply.
Thanks
Wayne
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| tedious |
Posted on 07/31/16 - 8:22 AM
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Is it possible to reach into the tank with something (the proverbial bent coat hanger) and lift the float? I wonder if it has just gotten stuck at the bottom somehow.
Tim
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| heimtun |
Posted on 07/31/16 - 8:48 AM
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tedious wrote:
Is it possible to reach into the tank with something (the proverbial bent coat hanger) and lift the float? I wonder if it has just gotten stuck at the bottom somehow.
Tim
Thanks.
I had the tank out a while back and turned it upside down (i was clearing out oil that sat in it for 6 years) and I could hear the "float" flop around... I also put a meter on the switch and saw connect/disconnect as I turned the tank upside down and right side up.
My initial question was if folks thought the "float" may no longer float.
Wayne
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| fitz73222 |
Posted on 07/31/16 - 12:02 PM
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heimtun wrote:
DO NOT restart the engine without doing the procedure that I can walk you through once you have it back together.
Hi Fitz - I'm thinking of diving back into the low oil switch ... Could you tell me about the procedure you were talking about in this reply.
Thanks
Wayne
Hi Wayne,
Which part of this did you want to revisit?
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| heimtun |
Posted on 07/31/16 - 12:27 PM
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fitz73222 wrote:
Hi Wayne,
Which part of this did you want to revisit?
I was thinking of possibly trying to replace the switch and do the hose (which you recommended) at the same time.
I don't want to do that until I understand all aspects of this replacement - including how, based on your warning not to start the motor until, I "prime" the oil pump.
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| fitz73222 |
Posted on 07/31/16 - 1:56 PM
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heimtun wrote:
fitz73222 wrote:
Hi Wayne,
Which part of this did you want to revisit?
I was thinking of possibly trying to replace the switch and do the hose (which you recommended) at the same time.
I don't want to do that until I understand all aspects of this replacement - including how, based on your warning not to start the motor until, I "prime" the oil pump.
OK, got it...
The hose comes in a 15" length from Mercury so pretty self explanatory trim to fit to the old hose length plus a smige extra just in case you need it. Tie strap the connections at the tank base and the oil pump. Make sure the tank sits correctly in the rubber boot at the bottom of the tank and the oil line and fitting sits in the groove at the bottom of the rubber boot and make sure there is no interference, kinks, anything that keeps the oil line from a nice straight and clean shot to the oil pump fitting.The switch is easy, one screw, in and out, done and connect the two blue wires. Now that we have introduced air into the system we need to bleed the pump. You'll need a flashlight to see the pump hex nut (9/32") in the middle of the oil pump body, it sticks out a little bit so you'll see it. Chances are you wont have that wrench unless you have an ignition wrench set from the old days for setting up breaker points in automotive distributers. I'm 56 and still have my set LOL. After everything is hooked up and secured, dump a quart of outboard oil in the tank. Now open that bleeder screw a couple of turns and you'll see the oil line fill and bubbles start to come out of the pump behind fitting you loosened and then oil will start to run out of it, snug the screw back up, done. Now from the pump body you are going to see a link rod that connects to the throttle linkage with a ball socket, disconnect that ball socket at the throttle linkage, it justs pops off with a little effort. Then you will see the pump arm rotate to full 50/1 oil feed position, this will allow you to do this on a flush attachment in the driveway without having to put the boat in the water and run at high speed. Now you have to run the engine on pre-mix 50/1 in a remote tank to make sure while the engine is running it is getting the correct amount of oil while the remainder of the air is bled from the oil pump. Run it at a fast idle for 20 minutes and your done! Reconnect the link arm from the oil pump to the carb linkage. You now can go back to straight gas if you want because your oil injection system is now purged. Easy Peasy!
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| heimtun |
Posted on 07/31/16 - 3:07 PM
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Thanks for this explanation!
I've got a few years on you and also have my ignition wrench set - the difference is, that I still use them on my older cars ;-)
Wayne
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| heimtun |
Posted on 07/31/16 - 3:30 PM
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I've been reading over your proceedure and am having trouble wrapping my head around:
Now from the pump body you are going to see a link rod that connects to the throttle linkage with a ball socket, disconnect that ball socket at the throttle linkage, it justs pops off with a little effort.
Got this... seems relatively easy.
Then you will see the pump arm rotate to full 50/1 oil feed position, this will allow you to do this on a flush attachment in the driveway without having to put the boat in the water and run at high speed.
Not sure what you mean re above... "pump arm rotate to full 50/1" - hmmm?? Are you saying I can do a flush on the driveway somehow and don't have to do the step below?
Now you have to run the engine on pre-mix 50/1 in a remote tank to make sure while the engine is running it is getting the correct amount of oil while the remainder of the air is bled from the oil pump. Run it at a fast idle for 20 minutes and your done!
Not sure about above either...
What happens (doesn't) happen when I remove the rod?
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| fitz73222 |
Posted on 07/31/16 - 5:28 PM
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heimtun wrote:
I've been reading over your proceedure and am having trouble wrapping my head around:
Now from the pump body you are going to see a link rod that connects to the throttle linkage with a ball socket, disconnect that ball socket at the throttle linkage, it justs pops off with a little effort.
Got this... seems relatively easy.
Then you will see the pump arm rotate to full 50/1 oil feed position, this will allow you to do this on a flush attachment in the driveway without having to put the boat in the water and run at high speed.
Not sure what you mean re above... "pump arm rotate to full 50/1" - hmmm?? Are you saying I can do a flush on the driveway somehow and don't have to do the step below?
Now you have to run the engine on pre-mix 50/1 in a remote tank to make sure while the engine is running it is getting the correct amount of oil while the remainder of the air is bled from the oil pump. Run it at a fast idle for 20 minutes and your done!
Not sure about above either...
What happens (doesn't) happen when I remove the rod?
The oil pump is gear driven from a gear on the crankshaft to a worm gear that drives the pump. The outflow of the pump is regulated by engine throttle position from 80-1 at idle to 50-1 oil to gas ratio above 3500 RPMs via the link arm I mentioned. When you disconnect that link arm the pump regulating valve is spring loaded and the pump will default to full open position. Basically you are fooling the pump into max oil flow because it is no longer tied to throttle position. The premise is to minimize the amount of time it takes to purge any remaining air in the pump without having to run the engine at high speed to do it. But while this is happening you temporarily run the engine on premix fuel to ensure no damage occurs to the engine from interrupted oil flow from air remaining in the system, of course this is with the engine running above idle. What I meant by flush is running the engine from a garden hose with a set of muffs over the cooling intake holes.
This process is based on running it at shop and not having to launch the boat since it's not good practice to run the engine above 3500 RPMs out of the water, hence fooling the oil pump into max flow and doing it on land . If you choose to put the boat in the water to do this you do not have to disconnect the link arm and just run it on premix fuel, take it and run it like you would normally for a half hour or so and the system will be purged of air and engine is protected from your premix fuel while this occurs. Hope this makes better sense. Congratulations you still have your ignition wrench set and you have some cars that need them!!!
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