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Location for Decals, 1974 Montauk
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| modenacart |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 12:05 PM
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What is the location for the decals for a 1974 Montauk?
Thanks
Edited by Joe Kriz on 07/30/10 - 12:07 PM
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 12:32 PM
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What size did you end up buying?
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=48
NOTE:
By mistake I deleted your other post thinking it was a duplicate.
My error.
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| modenacart |
Posted on 07/30/10 - 4:46 PM
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I bought the 14 inch decals. They were seven dollars plus shipping from Twin Cities Marine.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| modenacart |
Posted on 08/01/10 - 7:42 AM
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Bump
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| OutrageAzzurri81 |
Posted on 08/01/10 - 7:49 AM
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why are you bumping when you said you already got them from twin cities marine?
if you still need decals i suggest using Magic Brush. They were extremely helpful and were very pleasant to deal with.
their website: http://www.magicbrushsign.com/
Edited by OutrageAzzurri81 on 08/01/10 - 7:50 AM
Zach Magrini
1981 Outrage 25' |
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| cohasset73 |
Posted on 08/01/10 - 9:19 AM
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Just punch holes outside the lettering to use for registration.
Lay out registration marks in pencil on the hull. Peel off backing and align the holes to the marks and wipe on vinyl logo.
Pencil eraser the marks off.
Location is subjective, what looks good to you or have someone hold the transfers on the boat while you eyeball the perfect spot.
then pencil through the registration holes.
Tom from Rubicon,WI
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| modenacart |
Posted on 08/01/10 - 4:53 PM
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OutrageAzzurri81 wrote:
why are you bumping when you said you already got them from twin cities marine?
if you still need decals i suggest using Magic Brush. They were extremely helpful and were very pleasant to deal with.
their website: http://www.magicbrushsign.com/
Because I was looking for the location on the hull to place the decal. I didn't know if there was a drawing location whaler used or if they just slapped them on and leveled it.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| modenacart |
Posted on 08/01/10 - 4:54 PM
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cohasset73 wrote:
Just punch holes outside the lettering to use for registration.
Lay out registration marks in pencil on the hull. Peel off backing and align the holes to the marks and wipe on vinyl logo.
Pencil eraser the marks off.
Location is subjective, what looks good to you or have someone hold the transfers on the boat while you eyeball the perfect spot.
then pencil through the registration holes.
Tom from Rubicon,WI
That is a good suggestion on a preliminary location.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| Jeff |
Posted on 08/02/10 - 6:57 AM
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The bottom of the sled should be 8" below the bottom of the rub rail lip edge and the tail end of the of sled is 13" in from the corner of the transom.
I have found this to be a consistent placement (give and take a 1/4" or so) of the 14" long decals on the 16/17 hulls.
Edited by Jeff on 08/02/10 - 7:34 AM
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive |
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| modenacart |
Posted on 10/12/10 - 3:51 PM
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Is the placement level from the bottom of the boat? I think it would be easier to work from the bottom. I can easily calculate the measurement from the details already given.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| MW |
Posted on 10/13/10 - 1:19 AM
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I would zero in on where Jeff suggested. When I apply pressure sensitive decals I always create a "Train wreck" (actually the train wreck look's better) so a good idea (for me) is to use 1 tblsp. of Dawn dish soap per gallon of water. Use "Dawn" dish soap and water in a spray bottle SOAKED on the Hull, hands, fingers, and the sticky side of the decal. Have someone else stand way back to see if the decal straight when you apply it, if it's NOT, all is NOT lost, you can still slide it and still move the decal as long as it's wet and SOAKED with the soap and water solution... The next day everything is dry with "Professional" results !
Matt |
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| draftsman |
Posted on 10/13/10 - 7:11 AM
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I'd go a lot easier on that Dawn, too much and it will never stick... We use a tiny drop and that's enough in a spray bottle... And do not get the solid backing wet, it won't seperate from the decal if you do..
As far as a drawing on the classics, forget it... It was tribal knowledge only known by the guys in assembly... Jeffs info is as reasonable as it gets...
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| modenacart |
Posted on 10/13/10 - 6:07 PM
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I did one side using he "wet" method and the other side using this method, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WfETao...fETaoSGAfU. I like the method in the youtube video much better. I can't remove the "wet" side until the morning and the "youtube" side has already turned out great.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| CES |
Posted on 10/14/10 - 6:59 AM
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MW wrote:
I would zero in on where Jeff suggested. When I apply pressure sensitive decals I always create a "Train wreck" (actually the train wreck look's better) so a good idea (for me) is to use 1 tblsp. of Dawn dish soap per gallon of water. Use "Dawn" dish soap and water in a spray bottle SOAKED on the Hull, hands, fingers, and the sticky side of the decal. Have someone else stand way back to see if the decal straight when you apply it, if it's NOT, all is NOT lost, you can still slide it and still move the decal as long as it's wet and SOAKED with the soap and water solution... The next day everything is dry with "Professional" results !
You nailed it Matt....good advice.
draftsman wrote:
I'd go a lot easier on that Dawn, too much and it will never stick... We use a tiny drop and that's enough in a spray bottle... And do not get the solid backing wet, it won't seperate from the decal if you do..
As far as a drawing on the classics, forget it... It was tribal knowledge only known by the guys in assembly... Jeffs info is as reasonable as it gets...
A tablespoon of Dawn per one gallon of water is too much? Really? Seems like the perfect mix too me.....I've used more that that in less amounts water and have had excellant results.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| modenacart |
Posted on 10/14/10 - 1:08 PM
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The dry youtube method is far better. The wet side had a problem with the "R" in the trademark circle sticking, but since Jeff explained the old stickers didn't have the "R" anyway, I just scrapped them off both sides. Using the tape the place the decals puts them in the right location and they don't have anything contaminating the surface that may be in the water or soap.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| MW |
Posted on 10/14/10 - 1:27 PM
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what contaminants are in soap and water ?
Matt |
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 10/14/10 - 2:06 PM
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I just measured my 1974 Montauk that still has most of the original decals on her. The bottom of the sled is 8.5 inches below the lower rub rail. I am not sure if my decal is complete or not but the bottom aft slanted edge of the sled is 13.75 inches from the transom edge.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v722/Gamalot/Boat/100_0541.jpg[/IMG]
Gary
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 10/14/10 - 2:07 PM
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modenacart,
Where did Jeff say that the old sticker didn't have the "®" ??????
We certainly don't want to confuse anyone here.
There may be some early ones that didn't have the ® but at this time we would need to know exactly what years they didn't have the ® before we just made a blank statement.
Maybe we can narrow this down further to find out what year the ® started showing up.
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| modenacart |
Posted on 10/14/10 - 2:26 PM
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Joe,
He stated it in the thread that got deleted by accident.
Gamalot, Thanks for providing the picture and location. I placed mine about 8.25 inches below and about 13.25 inches from the aft edge.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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| modenacart |
Posted on 10/14/10 - 2:27 PM
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MW wrote:
what contaminants are in soap and water ?
Pick up your local water report and see what is in the water. Tap water is not plain H2O. Plus anything that may be in the spray bottle.
They that give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty or safety.
--Benjamin Franklin |
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