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I have just finished cleaning off the old lettering on my 27 Walkaround and am prepping the surface to accept the new letters. Is it alright to use acetone to remove the remaining glue or will it mess with the gel coat? I also need a recommendation as to the proper wax to use when I have completed the new lettering?

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Boston Whaler and various gelcoat manufacturers both say never to use acetone on gelcoat. Use mineral spirits/paint thinner and a razor scraper to get adhesive residue off the hull.

The best boat wax you can buy is Collinite #925 pure boat wax. Use if after you have first glossed the hull with 3M Finesse-it II and wool bonnet. If you are not using Finesse-it, I recommend Collinite's Fleet Wax, which has a very mild cleaner in it. Apply either Collinite product with a terry cloth bonnet on your orbital buffer.

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Acetone is what I have used and have for years. I say ok. As far as wax I get mine from the auto Detailing store, buy at wholesale.

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I use 100% pure silicone spray to melt off adhesive, and lettering, I then use a rag soaked w/mineral spirits to clean the area, then dry well.
To apply decals "Straight", use a little bit of "Dawn" dishwashing detergent and water in a spray bottle, wet the area to be applied well with the soapy solution, wet your hands, fingers and anything else that might stick, peel off decal back and apply decals...*%$# NOT straight ? No problem, just slide them until they are straight, let dry over night, Ya done !

Wax: I use collinite, some don't like it (tough to work) but, it really shines. Any good automotive wax will work as well.

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I tried the 3M marine paste wax and didn't like it at all. So far I have tried a lot of 3M products and that is the first I didn't like. I chose Mothers Carnauba Cleaner Wax instead, about 3 coats and it is really slick.

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I woud use 3-M Adhesive Remover and plastic razor blades. The plastic razor blades take away the chance of hurting the gel coat.
You can pick them up at any auto paint store.

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I agree. Any body shop supply house has those products.

I just use a top quality auto wax. I have for years and it has worked fine.

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John, sorry to hear you didn't like the 3M wax - I bought a can and was planning on using it this spring. What didn't you like about it?

I have used the Mother's auto wax on another boat and was pretty pleased, but thought I'd go with a marine-specific product this time around.

Tim

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Tim, it was a struggle with the 3M to get a good glaze. It took a very long time to haze over to the point it could be removed and the removal left a streaky finish. It almost looked like when you run your hand over suede in a few different directions. Some was shiny, some was not. It was like I kept missing spots. I could not get a uniform shine. I tried a few coats but had the same result.

I think I may not have let it set up enough, even though it was about 75 degrees in the garage with the heat on. I think I waited about 20 minutes which I think is a long time.

I found the application of the Mother's which is decidely more liquid than the 3M Paste much more friendly to use. It was easier to apply, faster drying, easily removed and left a streak free uniform shine. Will it last as long as the 3M had I left it? I don't know. We will have to see. My boat is small so its not hard to reapply more often which may be necessary with an auto wax, but its worth it to me based on the factors above.

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Thanks John! I guess I'll give the 3M a try, since it's already paid for:-(. Based on your experience, I'll be sure to set aside enough time to make sure it really dries out - see if that makes a difference.

Tim

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I also applied my 3M by hand, maybe it would be better with a buffer? Who knows. I am fairly sure it is a good product, I think it was the dummy using it that messed it up. :D

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MW, when applying your new hull #'s you spray on soapy water first? The new #'s will stick to hull?

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I spray the surface with a light soapy water (use a Windex spray bottle or like bottle) peel the paper side off the decal. The soapy will not let the decal stick to the hull. Now you can move it where you want it. What I do after getting it where I want it, is to take a terry cloth towel and begin to dry it from the center out Have also used a squeegee in some cases.then a towel.When dry pull the top part of the decal off slowly. Warning this is the way I do it May not be the correct way as according to the professionals.