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I have a 1987 15' SS and want to do some electrical work over the New Years Holiday. My bow light does not work so i am thinking of taking off the rub rail and replacing the wiring to my stern junction box. (see my personal page for the condition of my junction box.)
1. What guage wiring do i use, 16 guage?
2. Is it easy to put the rubrail back on after I have taken it off.
3 I would like to replace the entire junction box, where can I get one?

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I would think 18 guage is plenty for the bow light. Just use good marine grade wire, or so I'm told. Did you check for continuity in the existing wires? I can't tell if that is a one piece rub rail. Mine is and I had to remove it and adhere it back in place. It wasn't very hard. That junction block should be available at most marine stores. good luck with the project.
Mike

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If it is a three piece rubrail, I don`t think it will be easy to replace, as probably all the elasticity (not much even when new) is gone. However a new one is inexpensive ($105) and you could always fall back to that. Better than having lights that don`t work.

rich

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You only need to remove some of the black insert. It's very easy. I made masking tape markers every few feet so when I put it back in place it was stretched to the more or less correct spot.

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I ran my bow light wires through the rub rail and it works like a champ. Easy to do.

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CES How did you run the wires thru the rub rail?

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This task can be confusing for the 1st timer, I too had that problem ('76 Sport 15). you remove the back screw (port) and remove the rub rail up to the light, the rub rail might fall out of the channel all the way around, when you remove the screw, don't freak out, Do a good job on the wiring up to the bow light. I spent about an hour hammering the rub rail back in with a rubber mallet and a 2x4, when I got to the stern I was about 2' short of the screw hole (wha happen) ? I pulled slightly on the rub rail to reach the screw hole, and it all fell back out of the track like a piece of wet spaghetti thwarting 1 hrs work, and leaving me standing there, feeling like an unskilled idiot who should have left things alone...Bing ! Idea ! light bulb over head... I stretched out the rubber a bit, while my father held it in place near the bow light, he followed it down the track while I held it slightly stretched, I released it just enough to reach the screw hole, and she locked into the track, I replaced the screw (took about 15 mins) SO THAT'S HOW THEY DO IT ! they stretch it ! A warm day helps stretch the rubber too, and it's easier to work with. Hope this helps.

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Good points MW. I would like to add that when you're running your wire inside the rub rail, when you come to the bow light area, you'll need to drill a horizontal hole directly into your rail mounting area deep enough to come up under where you're mounting your bow light. Also, you'll have to drill another vertical hole straight down where your mounting the bow light in hopes of intersecting the horizontal hole you drilled into your boat from the bow. These holes are for running your wire from the inside of your rub rail, transparently up to where your bow light is located. Hope this made sense.

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change the junction box to a new design box. the wire is probably fine, replace it if you want but the whaler electrical set up is the problem. its either the switch, the light, or the connection in the box, but it aint the wire. i completely did away with the set up whaler does the boat with. its far from correct. when i re did the entire boat i moved the box into the console. it isnt as inclined to rot in there. jmo, but i would probable replace the wire too. i like it perfect.

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I'm kind of surprised that they went with a system behind a rub rail, it's a good place for wires to get "pinched" and break. I guess it was easier than trying to add a conduit through the foam core. As far as Maint. is concerned...again, it's fixable in the driveway with just hand tools. I think it's another example of "Whaler" design that I appreciate, "Simple, Rugged, and made so the avg. guy can repair it quickly, and get back out on the water and enjoy the boat.

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I also need to run some wires to the bow for a trolling motor on my 2001 13 Sport.

You can use flexible plastic "wiremold" or "Panduit" surface wiring conduit. It is available in a variety of sizes. I have an aftermarket set of speakers that TC Marine installed on my boat left and right about halfway up the forward gunwale. I had contemplated removing the port side speaker and using a flexible bit that electricians use to fish Romex wire in houses. I really want to hide the wiring if I can.

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Consider running a third wire. If in the future the whole thing goes kaput the third wire will likely save the day.

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Thanks, you were right! I tried to wire it directly to the battery and the light worked like a charm w/o replacing the wire under the rub rail. I am now tryinf to figure out what is wrong with the switch or fuse box

Mike

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Replacing the wire to the bow light of classic Whaler with the three piece Barbour rub rail is very simple.

Only the rub rail insert need be removed. It just peels right out.

The biggest problem is finding wire that will easily fit within the rub rail insert. Whaler just used 18 gauge lamp cord which corroded very easily. Good Marine Grade duplex wire is too bulky to fit within the run rail insert.

I found the best wire to use is ANCOR's 16 Ga. duplex speaker wire. It is fully tinned to resist corrosion, much larger than the original and will last MUCH longer than the OE wire. It fits easily within the rub rail because it is not sheathed.

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Tom - Always contributing great information!