Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: 1984 Revenge Deck Lid Repair
Posted by dave3825us on 09/12/23 - 10:59 AM
#1
Wanted to know from those who have rebuilt Whaler deck lids, how far down do you go? Ripped off all the old wood and some spots it's down to the fiberglass skin and others its to the poly resin.
I have more pics but cant figure out how to add them.
Edited by dave3825us on 09/12/23 - 11:02 AM
Posted by Phil T on 09/12/23 - 3:57 PM
#2
Just remove the wood, leave the resin and glass.
Add new plywood that is coated with epoxy. Overlap seams. Bevel edges and seal the end grain.
Posted by dave3825us on 09/12/23 - 7:15 PM
#3
I have read that people chiseled the wood but what's happening when I chisel the wood is its pulling the poly resin up off the glass. What is the best method for the rest of the wood removal? Sand it down until i hit resin? And this pic, that would be the resin with air bubbles?
Posted by dave3825us on 09/13/23 - 6:06 AM
#5
Yes , that's actually the first write up about deck rebuild I ever read. I also read this one.
https://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/centerDeckRepair.html
I did not really see anything specific detailing how far to go. One concern I have is the condition of the poly resin. It has a ton of little cracks and voids in a bunch of different spots.
Jeff used 3x 1/4 sheets and Jason used 2x 3/8 sheets, both equal 3/4 thickness. I have a 1984 Revenge and I think I have to exceed that because if I am seeing this correctly in Jeff's drawing, the first sheet of 1/4, that's in the skin, rests on the lip where the screws go. The second and third sheet, the remaining 1/2 inch, is that meant to rest on the top of the rigging tunnel and fish well wall?
If so, my rigging tunnel sits between 11/16 and 3/4 lower than the lip as seen with the level and tape measure.
Looking at my fish well lid, which has the same measured difference between the lip and the top of the rigging tunnel, that looks to be resting on both.
Edited by dave3825us on 09/13/23 - 7:50 AM
Posted by Phil T on 09/13/23 - 5:32 PM
#6
Grind it down to the epoxy. You can fill the holes with a layer of epoxy, then apply the first layer of wood.
Posted by dave3825us on 09/23/23 - 12:54 PM
#7
Trying to determine if I can cut down a full sheet for the first layer as my lid measures 48 x 74. Full sheet is 48 x 96. The 2 articles I read both show using sections but I do not know if that's because their lids were larger than 4 x 8. I do not know the measurements of the Outrage lids. Only advantage using sections I can see is mixing smaller batches of epoxy at a time.
Posted by Phil T on 09/24/23 - 7:19 AM
#8
overlapping sections adds strength.
Posted by Phil T on 09/24/23 - 7:20 AM
#9
The Outrage 22 cover is quite large and not possible from a full sheet of 4'x8'.
Posted by dave3825us on 09/24/23 - 5:50 PM
#10
Even tho I had the option to not use sections for the first layer, since my lid is smaller than a full sheet, I choose to use sections to allow a little extra time with the batches of epoxy, to fit exact and add weight. I have 3 sections ready but do not think I have enough filler so that's on its way. All that's really left is to tape up all though holes on the skin where any epoxy would run out.
I have to ask, do sections add more strength than using a uncut piece?