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Hi Everyone,

I want to run my plan by you guys to see if I'm on the right track.

The original wooden console on my 16' 1962 Eastport came loose. The wooden block that was screwed to the deck has sheared off the screws. Half the screw remains in the deck. I was able to remove the block from the sidewall of the console.

Proposed solution: I was going to use 5200 to secure the block directly to the deck and then put 2 or 3 new screws into the deck. This way I don't have to drill out the sheared screws and putting in larger screws. I'll then screw the console back into the block and use 4200 on the new screw threads.

If I'm using 5200, do I need new screws or will that hold just fine?

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Throw away the 5200. This is absolutely the wrong product.

You want to remove the fasteners. Drill out the hole two bit sizes. Tape off the area. Squirt Gorilla glue and fill the hole 1/2 way. The glue will expand. You should add enough so it slighly overfills the hole. Let cure. Trim excess. Drill the original screw size. Reinsert new stainless oval headed screws #8 or #10. You want the screw to go into the deck at least 1-1/2 inches.

To seal a hole, use a marine sealant like Boat Life's Life Caulk. Nothing with the word "Adhesive" in the description.

Remove the other screws and add sealant in the deck holes. If they are loose, drive a screw that is one size larger.

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Thank you Phil! I'm glad I asked. We had a rough ride coming back into Salem Harbor and it dislodged the console. Think Gorilla glue and your method will be strong enough to last many years? Also, when you say drill out two bit sizes, can you tell me more about that? As in, two bit sizes larger than the original screw hole?

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Let's work together to fix your 1962 Eastport 16 console so that the lower console deck cleats are secured properly for another 60 plus years.

Gorilla glue will not be strong enough.

Remove the lower console deck cleats from the console base. The onsole base was fastened originally using 5 screws with finish washers each side horizontally into the deck cleats. The deck cleats had 7 screws originally each cleat fastened into the deck vertically.

Inspect the solid mahogany wood cleats. Are they punkish? Rotten wood? If so, replace. Bob Latourelle in Havehill MA can make you a new set.

If you can reuse the originals, then what you are going to do is install the cleats on the opposite side.

You want to fill in the old holes in the deck first. seal them up good.

Now pay attention to where you place the cleats. The reversed cleats will now have holes that line up on a new area of the deck, so you can pre-drill fresh, new shallow holes, not more than 1/2 inch into the deck, and of smaller diameter than the fastening screws. This way, the stainless screws will seat securely through the plywood substrate below the deck.

You can also move your console back an inch or two, so that the deck cleats have a clean, undrilled area to be fastened again.

Get yourself new phillips head stainless screws 1 7/8 inch long. Insert a screw into each countersink hole in the deck cleat and visually oberve the length of screw sticking out of the bottom of the cleat. It should be at least 1/2 inch long but not more than 1 inch. You do not want to screw 1 1/2 inches into the deck, lest you piece a hole in your bottom.

You can look at the the diagram for the console located in the download section of this website.

Go to the page that provides specifications for the Lower Console "flloor" (the term deck is more appropriate) cleats.

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Thank you very much! I think that will work nicely. Should I use something on the screw threads into the deck, and into the cleat? Luckily, the wood is in good shape so I can reuse.