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Hello and thanks for reading. I've had my first Boston Whaler 13' for about a month now. I have a couple problems and been searching the net but haven't found all answers.

My Whaler is a 1986. First off I have some screw holes on the outside of the boat that I need to fill and patch. Some say use Epoxy and others say no. What I'm thinking of using is some type filler like Goop and then cover area with Gel Coat patch. I also have some scratches that went through the Gel Coat so was thinking about doing same thing.

Next I have the Wrap Around Bow Rail and some of the T's are broken. They need to be replaced. What to do here because they don't slide off past bends. I'm getting crazy ideas to fix this. I can't imagine this is junk because of a broken T fitting?

Thanks for responses
Kenny

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For the rail T's there are aftermarket one that are 2 piece but they are hard to find.

The other method is to cut the rail at the T and place a "hot dog" insert inside of the rail, then slide the new T on so it hides the cut.

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I did mine with epoxy, but Ive heard you should use what the boat was originally laid up with. If you use epoxy just know that you cant go back over it with gel coat because that uses a different resin.

Good luck and enjoy the journey. Best piece of advice is expect to sand alot and spend 2x what you think in time and $$!

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Congratulations beach Whaler. You’ve bought a wonderful boat. The loose screws are common & easily fixed. Well, maybe not easy but very doable. It’s just that there are a lot of holes & after you fix one items mounting you’ll start fixing them all. I’ve repaired every fastener on my boat by now including all 100 or so rivets fastening the rub rail while replacing the rub rail. Also all railings & the mahogany console & seating. Everything is now as if it grew out of the hull. Rock solid. It is west epoxy, thickened with the west thickener you’ll use. Each screw hole should be allowed to air dry a day or too if wet, but first you will drill the holes out to 3/8” diameter. Sounds scary but be fearless, this works. After a day or so in the sun you will take small piece of coat hanger bent to 90 degrees & with a dremel under cut the 3/8” hole below the fiberglass. This will allow the epoxy to form a shoulder under the fiberglass & is a very important step. It prevents the epoxy from pulling out when the screw is replaced. The top if the hole you’ll countersink enough to widen the epoxy bond above the bored hole. Use some glue syringes to fill the holes with thickened epoxy & once cured sand the patched hole flush. Drill these holes about 3/4” deep into the foam. If you go too deep you can stuff paper towels into the holes for the epoxy to sit against as it cures. You want a deep bite for the new screws so don’t patch shallow. When cured you’ll drill pilot holes & refasten using 3m 5200 sealant under the hardware. I promise you this will work like you never expected. Good as new. Better even as the did not use any sealant originally. Good luck & ask any mire questions you need too

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Thank you for the great replies.

What a terrible design on the rail. I was hoping there was a 2 piece T out there. I'll keep checking, if not I'll go the hot dog method.

This Whaler had been sitting for a few years on the side of the yard. I'm just trying to get her in the water. So for now I'm refinishing the wood and will have to replace some. I will fill some of the old mount holes and remount some of the wood.

Great advice on the filling the holes. I do have some on the outside and some chips. I will be heading to West Marine and get some Gel Coat and fill these outside areas.

I've been reading lots of articles out there and really excited.

Thanks again
Kenny
Beachwhaler

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Fill all the holes You want no further water intrusion.