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I purchased a 1989 Outrage 18 last spring. The boat was in factory original condition and had the original 1989 120hp Johnson, but the engine was blown. All other aspects of the boat are great and just need some TLC and elbow grease to being things back to looking like new. Only error I found was the owner applying a cheaper non-factory original Whaler spec'd decal when the original ones must have worn away. I've compounded the topsides to clean them as well as possible and will be re-applying all new factory correct decals. Hopefully the UV faded imprint of the incorrect decal on the gelcoat will fade out over time. I've had the hull soda blasted and new bottom paint applied. I'll be working on re-powering this winter with a new i-4 Yamaha outboard and had some concerns about how to best address the console with having new instruments/gauges installed.

I don't want to lose the classic Whaler appearance, but at the same time I wanted to opt for a DEC outboard model. Is the best option to stick to individual new digital instruments/gauges in order to try and install where the original instruments/gauges are located? DEC outboards do have the option to go with a single touchscreen display for all instrumentation/gauges (which would be nice), but that's really going to be hard to integrate into the existing console without either leaving the old gauges in and not working or plugging a bunch of holes. I don't think re-glassing the console is a good idea due to how good the original condition the boat is in and doubt if it's able to successfully match original gelcoat and not look like it had been re-glassed. Any suggestions?

I also wondered about the black panel behind the steering wheel on the console. I've always seen the black panels on each side of the wheel, but not behind the wheel. Is that a modification? Can you purchase new black panels like the ones on either side of the steering wheel?

Any insight from members who have undergone similar projects is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

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If the hull is chalky, (wipe with your finger) you may want to start with wetsanding.

Is that a photo before buffing? If after, you have a long way to go.

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What is a DEC outboard?

Members have installed digital gauges on new black instrument panels (available through your whaler dealer) OR via a large display mounted on the top shelf with blank panels.

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The photo is after the compounding. I had it done by the local marina in my area. They haven't completed any waxing, so if you think that more compounding needs to happen..., I'll contact them about it. I had hoped that it would clean better than that.

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Compounding/detailing takes alot of time and patience. A good job will lead to a very reflective shine on the gelcoat.

Hitting it with heavy cut with a buffer for an hour or two will not do it. You may want to do it yourself. At yard rates, it can be wicked expensive.

It's not hard to learn technique. The buffer/wool bonnets and products will run less than $300.

My first detailing on my Montauk and Outrage 17 took ~6-8 hrs.

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Here is what it can look like after wet sanding a hull.

http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...r_id=41531

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I can't quite decide what I think is going on with your gelcoat, but the color is very irregular. Should be much more even. Could be the photos, maybe you can take some more and post-

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Thanks for the replies and images for reference. I'll have to follow up with the marina..., they've been in the business for a long time and are very reputable. They did indicate to me that they only completed an initial compounding of the hull and would be waiting until the spring to start the fish work and polishing, so that's why it looks pretty dull. I don't remember them saying anything about having wet sanded it though, so maybe that is still needed? This may have just been an initial cleaning from the "as is" condition in order to prepare for the real work in the spring? There was a question from a member on what DEC is. It's an option for Digital Engine Control rather than the typical mechanical rigging.

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I'm only in the area where the boat is on a seasonal basis, so I'll have to get the marina to take more photos for me, but I think this one shows the gelcoat's current condition better. It has not been polished, waxed, etc. just stripped of surface residues so it is very dry and dull right now.

*Sorry..., scratch that reply as I cannot figure a way to reduce the photo file size to less than 125kb and not completely distort the image quality. The comment about the gelcoat uniformity is completely due to the image. I have a much better picture of the boat, just can't post it.

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Acspurgat: I think that your model of Outrage is a really special boat. When I was a kid, working at a marina in my hometown of Vermilion, Ohio, we sold Whalers. This is on Lake Erie. The Montauk of that time is the classic Montauk, and with the 13 Sport, maybe THE classic Whalers. But that version of the Outrage was a much heavier boat and was the boat to conquer the chop of Lake Erie. Lots of happy customers with that one.

That said, it's not so "classic" in the sense of the way some people lovingly rebuild their consoles to furniture grade, etc. I think you have a monster boat, built to do monster boating, and you should do whatever you want to it. It is a machine, a tool, not a museum piece.

(your other boat is a museum piece!)

An 18 Outrage deserves the best we can give her in terms of motors and electronics and etc. And there's ways to preserve the overall console look ... but that look doesn't really get down to gauges, in my opinion, on this particular boat. In my opinion, I would look at her more respectfully if she were fully stoked with modern equipment, like she just got a re-fit, which is exactly what you're doing. A re-fit is an honorable thing, especially for a boat that can kick as much *ss as yours will.

Good luck and I hope you'll keep posting of your work along the way.

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As for gauge updates, I’d suggest minimal conventional gauges, and instead network your new engine to your chartplotter, and use this for the gauges. This will give you all the available engine minitoring, and as well, put them in a more convenient location for keeping an eye on them, since most mount thier chartplotter on top of the classic standard console.

I have had both of my Outrages rigged this way.

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I have just purchased and am working away on my 1989 production / 1990 model Outrage 18/19. It does have black vinyl between the two instrument panels. Mine was coming lose and will be replaced this week. Hope this helps.

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Where will you be getting the black vinyl? I need to replace on my 1989 Montauk as well. Could you provide a link? Thanks.

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New guy here enjoying the posts. I have a 1988 outrage 20 that runs great but the interior is in rough shape. A few of the gauges don't work and have had a hard time locating replacements. Any suggestions? I was thinking of getting a whole new gauge cluster installed but don't know if I should change the classic original look of my Whaler.

Thx

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Slightly Of Topic - What determined what gauges came with a boat? I have a 1989 Montauk I just got with original gauges. Mine
has on Left Panel : Speedometer on top, Tilt/Trim Gaige on bottom. Right Panel : Tachometer on top, then below a Light knob/pull lever and below that Accessories knob/pull lever.(both with fuse knobs) Then lower right(below throttle) I have ignition switch and below that Kill switch.
Seems as though from all of the pictures I've seen, they are all different. Thoughts?
Steve

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Prior to 200X, Boston Whaler did not pre-rig so the dealer did the motor and rigging installation.

There was no standard layout for what gauges were included and where they were installed.

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My son is a graphic artist and I had him cut me 3M black vinyl with the laminate they usually use for out door use. It was installed yesterday and looks great. 10 3/4" and about 6" (hidden behind gauge panels, so not critical). Cut out hole for steering and hub cover with Xacto after applying vinyl.