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I'm a new member and this is my first post. Forgive me for any gaffs. I got an 1998 Outrage 18 a couple weeks ago and now the bilge pump has stopped working. it doesn't appear to be tied into a fuse block and I wonder if the switch is on a circuit breaker. If it is , it doesn't appear to be tripped. I can't get voltage at pump, or continuity through switch. The pump is on a float switch. I removed the pump and applied 12v to it and it ran.

My guess at this point is the switch is fried. I wanted to get your opinion before I start removing more parts.

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Welcome.......great start. Continuity a simple and defining test. No continuity with the switch in the "on" position is defining. I have no knowledge of the circuitry of your boat from the factory. However.......bilge switches sometimes bypass the fuse block. My bilges are independent of the panel on my boat and have a dedicated circuit breaker from the battery. That way, with the battery in the off position in a multiple battery set up, or with the circuit breaker off (hopefully you have one before your fuse block) servicing the fuse block.....the bilges still work. Well worth your time to schematic all your wiring. Even if the switch swap works I say.......continue and explore. Is your switch a switch or circuit breaker switch????? If a circuit breaker switch what "cooked" the circuit breaker?

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If you have a seperate float switch, there is a splice in the wires joining the wires from the float to the pump. Many times the wires are not sealed properly. Pull these apart, cut back to new wire and reconnect, paying close attention to the color codes.

Use marine butt connectors with heat shrink ends and slather with liquid electrical tape to ensure a tight seal.

Butt connectors: Probably 12 gauge.
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/produ...42938.html

Liquid electrical tape:
https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/produ...30888.html

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OK, thank you. That splice is not visible, but I'll find it. There's an access port between console and seat. I haven't been in there yet. Thanks again! I'll be back.

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I agree with GChuba and Phil T. If it wasn't already apparent, you should hear this loud and clear: even though the bilge pump might bypass the fuse or breaker panel, the bilge pump should still have a fuse or circuit breaker INLINE. From what I have learned on this site, the best place to have this protection is as close to the battery as possible. That way, all the wiring is protected from overheating/fire damage, which usually protects a whole lot of other things, like other wiring, fuel lines, etc.

Most dedicated bilge pump switches (commercially available) have a switch and fuse receptacle mounted side by side in a little rectangular cover plate. The point of not going through the main panel is you don't want something stupid in your electrical system shutting down your bilge pump. Even on small boats where it isn't an electric cooktop or microwave overtaxing the amperage, you might have a mobile phone transformer/charger go bad, knocking out the main panel ... leaving your boat to fill in the rain ...