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Long story short splash-down was fun for about 20 minutes before my outboard cut out and would not start back up. Got home checked compression (engine cold, throttle neutral) in all 4 cyl was 110 PSI. Fuel was good, very fresh full tank, mixed correctly, firm bulb full carbs etc. Turns out I had no spark. Pulled up the wiring diagram and checked the fuse first. It was blown so I replaced it (20A) but still no spark. I checked the continuity of the fuse holder and that checked out. I checked the stator/trigger and one ignition coil (no spark on any of them I figured they all wouldnt die at once) and they checked out per my seloc manual ohms meter testing of the different color wire combos. Any help here, I am at a loss. Seems to me like it is a switchbox problem. Probably should mention I bought new spark plugs and they wont spark either (not a plug problem).

Any and all help is appreciated!

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I would check the kill switch and its wiring.

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I checked the switch and it was in the "on" position, also bypassed the wiring and still didnt get a spark so I dont think its the kill switch.

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If there are any connectors, pull off and re-connect.
Check for any and all grounds.

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Thanks Phil, I disconnected everything and cleaned/checked all the wires I could to make sure I have good connections at the terminals, all seems good there, still no spark.

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If the engine ran then you blew a fuse, you probably melted something.

Solenoid or a wire

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That was my thoughts too.
Wire that has failed can be impossible to see. Check for any of the critical wires having a lot of flex in a spot.
I had a bad lead from my battery that was thick woven copper cable and looked great from outside. Only way I found it was internally failed was I used a jumper cable to "replace" it.
Once I knew it was bad I stripped the insulation and found the green failure.

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It could be a portion of a wire I cannot see leading into the trigger or stator, but all the wires I have found and traced look ok. Ill see what happens when I bend them and move them. I bypassed my control box by just jumping my battery to the starter solenoid and still no spark so I think I have isolate the problem to the engine itself, specifically the ignition system.

No spark when I bypass the kill switch or rectifier so I dont think it is either of those. I tested the resistance on the stator, trigger, and ignition coils and those are all in spec. I think it is the switch box itself. Seems like it has a crack in the vinyl/plastic/electrical tape-like substance on it. Ill upload a pic. Apparently they can go bad if the kill switch carries voltage when you turn the key from off to on...although I tested and didnt see any.

Anyone know anything about these switch boxes going bad? My part # 332-5772A2

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Switch box

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Close-up you can see a crack to the left of the first red rubber cap

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Good find. I replaced several back in my marine mechanic days but I don't recall one causing the fuse to blow. I'd still take the time to check all the wires and make sure they are not getting brittle and maybe laying against a piece of metal. You don't want to replace the thing twice. :)

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Yes very true they are annoyingly expensive. I will be sure to check over all the wires and make sure they are all still in good shape. Thanks for the advice all.