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Crableg: I own a 1990 Revenge WT with standard transom and twin 120 Johnsons, so mine should be very similar to yours. If you have the 77 gallon gas tank, you have a fish well aft of the tank compartment and forward of the splash well. If you have the optional 129 gallon tank, you won't have the fish well but you will still have the splash well which is adjacent to the transom. You don't describe the configuration you own. Also you don't say whether the boat is a standard transom outboard or something else like Whaler Drive or Sea Drive. I will assume you have the outboard for my comments.

To answer your basic question, I have not seen any diagrams or other visual aids to the drain tube guidance. However, there is a very good description of the self bailing & drain tubes in the Boston Whaler Owners Manual for 18' to 25' Whalers. It is available on Whaler Central under Resources/Downloads/Boston Whaler Owners Manuals. It is the first file (for 18' to 25' Whalers) and file page 05 covers Self Bailing & Drain Tubes. If you don't have this or have not read it, you should. The description is clear and the recommendations are also plain. In it, Whaler recommends that if you have the bilge pump for the starboard compartment, that compartment's drain plug be inserted when the boat is in the water. It permits the bilge pump to empty water that drains into that compartment. For the splash well and fish well, it recommends the transom drain tube and fish well to splash well tube be left open. While floating at rest, water would find its own level in both compartments. Underway on plane, both would drain out and empty themselves.

That is the official guidance. But depending on how you use the boat, you might want to do something else. gchuba and many others have installed bilge pumps in the splash well and other places. That way with the transom drain plugged, the bilge pump takes care of any boarding seas that spill into the splash well. If you open the fish well tube to this splash well, that single bilge pump can take care of both compartments, including rain.

I don't do much fishing, so my fish well is a storage area for fenders and other stuff that can get wet, so I keep the drain plug installed and the tube to the splash well plugged too. If I need to pump out the fish well, I do so with a manual bilge pump. I trailer the boat, so it does not sit in the water at a mooring. Out of the water, the fish well drain plug is opened and most of the water will stay drained out rain or shine. I would like to put a bilge pump into the splash well, but I have not felt the need to do so. I normally operate the boat with the drain plug installed and if I take a wave over the stern, I can either open the plug or pump it out with the manual bilge pump. Obviously when on the trailer, this plug is also open.

So you have some choices. And if you have Whaler Drive or Sea Drive, my advice probably won't apply. As to how to wire your main large bilge pump (like gchuba I am not sure what you mean by this), I recommend you route it to a switch which is fused properly. I like a float switch with the bilge pump and would not recommend the automatic pumps for the mentioned power drain issue. You could install a bilge pump in the splash well and also the fish well depending on how you use the boat. If you use a float with the bilge pump, you must mount the pump lower than the float switch (so the float will shut off the pump before it loses suction) and the float switch must be high enough to prevent any cycling from return water in the overboard line when the pump stops. There is plenty of advice on installing bilge pumps in multiple sources on line and in books.

Hope this helps.
Al