Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: How do I wire a new bow light through a new 3 piece rub rail?
Posted by rockinhitz34 on 10/26/16 - 5:49 AM
#1
Im trying to figure out how to wire a new bow light through a new 3 piece rub rail on a 1969 13' sport. Ive glassed in the old holes in the hull where the wire used to run (it couldn't carry a current). I have a few questions (Im sure the answer exists elsewhere so feel free to direct me there instead):
1. How do I wire the light so that I see the least amount of wire? In order for my bow light to sit flush the wires must run through the hull, do I just drill a hole down into the bow and than meet it horizontally through the rub rail and run the wire through there?
2. What wire should I buy to splice the light wire to? Is there a specific gauge I should use, or some good splice kit meant for the marine environment?
3. How do I exit the wire at the stern?
4. I want to use a classic 3 position switch for the bow and anchor light...how do I make the right connections to this switch and the battery?
Thanks for the help!
Edited by rockinhitz34 on 10/26/16 - 5:53 AM
Posted by Finnegan on 10/26/16 - 10:42 PM
#2
It is fairly simple, actually. First install the new rubrail receiver, then holes have to be drilled through it and the hull both at the bow and at a stern sidewall location. The wire runs inside and behind the black rubrail insert. Use two strand #16 wire. The correct color code is gray, but you can use a red/black combo also. Cabela's sells this very reasonably in marine grade, by the foot.
The wire runs down the same side that has the stern light pole. From under the bow light, drill at an angle, or as you suggest, to access the rubrail. At the stern sidewall, about 1 foot forward of the transom and just inside the rubrail, drill though the hull. The hole is hidden by a terminal block (which can also be enclosed in a covering box) installed on the inside where the connections are made for both the bow light and the stern light pigtail disconnect. The switched power from the console runs into the hull tunnel (use Ancor two wire sheathed cable in the tunnel), out the back and into the battery box, and over to the ternimal block. See the Montauk album in my personal Website link for photos of the stern terminal block setup. The negative ground from the nav lights goes directly to the battery terminal and does not have to have a black wire running back up to the console.
Use #10 Ancor sheathed cable to bring house power up to the fuse block located under the console.
Use Cole Hersee M-476BP switch at the dash.
Posted by rockinhitz34 on 10/28/16 - 11:08 AM
#3
Awesome description, thank you!
Posted by rockinhitz34 on 10/28/16 - 11:25 AM
#5
Thanks Joe. Nauset Marine has a version of the classic 3 position switch, I forget who makes it though.