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Hi guys,

Getting back on track with my rebuild. Done a lot of grinding, cut a gash in my leg and needed 10 stitches, healed, and back out sanding now. I ground off all the anti-slip texture and paint (or 85%). In the process, I found this:

http://i1341.photobucket.com/albums/o...odonta.jpg

What's the best way to repair the corner of the transom? Any and all recommendations welcome as I may be in over my head.

(fixed link)

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I was going to cut all the damage away and rebuild the foam with great stuff in the red can. Then I was going to shape the foam to match the other corner. As for the fiberglass, I'll cut away some more to make the repair a bit easier and the feather the edges per the "Wyler" repair method. Following that, I'm assuming that I need to level the repair off with chopped strand matting until I'm close to where I want it. Then fill in the rest with Cambosil and epoxy until it looks good to receive gelcoat. After all repairs to the rest of the boat, I'm going to spray gelcoat (3x) as the final finish.

Would love to hear your thoughts on whether this approach is sound.

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It sounds as though you have a reasonable grasp of the process. The one thing I'd recommend is a layer of woven fibreglass, as foam, chopped strand matting, and gelcoat don't have much structural strength. I prefer microballoons to Cabosil, but to each their own.

You may want to consider using polyester resin rather than epoxy. Polyester is what your Whaler was originally built with - it is less fussy to work with than epoxy, and compatible with gelcoat. Epoxy is not, so you'll need to do something to get the gelcoat to adhere properly to it.

Tim

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Tim,

Appreciate the advice. Is there a brand of polyester resin that you would recommend? With respect to strength, are they equivalent? Lastly, why do you prefer microballons over cabosil?

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Hi,
If you are serious about finishing your project,
and not have it stall out and become a craigslist deal,
I would ditch the gelcoat idea and go with an epoxy resin repair,
an epoxy primer,
and awlgrip LP top coat.

Whoever suggests polyester probably doesn't work with resin too much,
and gelcoat takes so much sanding and polishing before and after the application,
it is not for a beginner.
Awlgrip can be sprayed or rolled/brushed.
It is strong and shiny.

Epoxy resin almost always kicks thoroughly,
and no need to use laminating or finishing resins.
It doesn't smell although you shouldn't breath it in anyway!

The corner repair can be built up with almost anything,
wood, the insulating foam sold in sheets from Home Depot, bondo,
or a mix of each.
The strength is multiple layers of glass.

Anyway have fun and wear a mask,
and I like to work next to a fan!

TP

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Anyone else care to chime ? I could really use some quick advice.

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Here's a couple blog posts showing our DIY repairs.

http://perichbrothers.blogspot.com/20...t-iii.html

http://perichbrothers.blogspot.com/20...-blue.html

http://perichbrothers.blogspot.com/20...after.html

Pictures... (Any way to have them shown without clicking?)

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-eC...907923.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-1l...858902.jpg

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-vP...295656.jpg

All epoxy and roll/tipped awlgrip

TP

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Since you asked...I wouldn't waste my time on that hull. There will always be people who can tell you how to put lipstick on that pig, but you WILL lose time & money making a pretty pig. You are only asking about the corners but that has to be the worst 15' I've seen, and I am pretty sure I can find more problems with it.

I'd rather see someone who is passionate about Boston Whalers begin a project with a boat that is worth their time and money.

If you aren't ready to listen to that form up and make the shape you want with foam. Back cut the FG and lay in fibers so you tie into the back of the skin. This is actually important. Then you start building up the front of the repair.

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Thanks for the tips. Ordered and waiting on Uscomposites epoxy and foam to arrive. MG56, I will be shaping the foam to in the corner transom to match the other side and then tying in to the back side of the existing fiberglass.

Tim (Tedious):. Thanks for the tip on using polyester resin, but after a lot of back and forth, I decided to go with epoxy resin since I'm more comfortable using that medium. The guys at US composites also provided advice and they were sort of the tie breaker.

Anyways, until the supplies arrive in the mail, I'll continue sanding to prep the surface.

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Back in town and able to respond now. I too prefer to work with epoxy if appropriate - smells better, for one thing! However it is not as forgiving of colder temperatures in particular, and you'll need to do something to get gelcoat to stick to it - the person from US composites should be able to help there.

Good luck!


Tim

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Wow MG56 It's a lobor of love and the pride and satisfaction you get in the end.

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Hey, I didn't respond at first but the OP did a brain check and asked for last thoughts.

You know, there are 50 new guys asking the same shlt every year, and most of them give up or want to sell $10,000 Sport 13's because they have so much money into them.

I absolutely get that it is a labor of love, and a challenge of your skills. I saw your restore. Very nice, and I can appreciate all of the work you have into it. But why wouldn't you put that pride and energy into a better hull?

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I don't think you get it.

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Guys, I'll have to step in and break this up. :) I love the tradition of the whalers and design.

The reason I bought it: Got it for a great price knowing I would need to fix it. The engine looked to be in very good shape. I've done some fiberglass work before with a CLCBoat kit (I know, it's not the same). That said, I'm not intimidated with doing a lot of work.

I'm pretty hands on and an avid woodworker so I love to create and build things. Not intimidate by this project at all and can see the path forward. Plus, now that it's all torn apart, I've passed the point of no return. I know I'm in good hands on this site.

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Getting close to sanding all the paint off all surfaces. The gutters have posed quite the challenge and solved only with time and elbow grease. Have about a 4 foot section left and those will be done. Only remaining surface is the baitwell.

I did have a question though, in some spots, I sanded to the fiberglass. Before painting with Awlgrip, do I need to rebuild the gelcoat layer back up to original thickness? Otherwise, I would be painting directly over the fiberglass. Or should I fair the low spots and then paint?

Second question, what are some good recommendations on fairing compounds? A coworker suggested Quick Fair which has a lot of good reviews.

Thanks,

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Quick fair is good takes a while to harden but is epoxy not polyester like bondo/evercoat etc.
You need to spray an epoxy primer like 545 after all the repairs,
that'll seal up and warn you of any hidden spots.
TP

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Is epoxy based fairing the way to go or polyester based? Should I use polyester based on areas that I'm not making repairs with epoxy and quick fair on the areas with epoxy?

In the areas that I've sanded to the fiberglass, do I rebuild those spots up with fairing or should I spray gelcoat to rebuild and replace what was sanded off? Or is it okay to simply fair over to level it and then epoxy prime?

Last, regarding hidden spots. Are you referring to the method of spraying, sanding the spray off with a flat board in order to show the valleys?

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Quick fair is awesome. You can put epoxy over polyester but not the other way around.

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You'd be surprised how strong polyester based fillers are under epoxy.
It sounds wrong in theory,
but in the real world it's a normal boatyard thing to do.

I'd define hidden spots as spots that pop up after prime that need to be smoothed out.
They could be anything from 60 grit swirls, low/high spots, bad feathering or whatever
would bug the heck if it was the final topcoat!
TP

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Okay, so I've made a lot of progress in the corner. I had to cut away a significant portion of the fiberglass and remove foam. I've got it down to the structurally sound fiberglass, feathered it out, and re-poured 2 part foam. I'm looking to start fiberglassing tomorrow and need some final advice.

Do I create fiberglass mash by pulling apart matting and then mixing with epoxy? Is this then stuffed under the feathered fiberglass until all voids are filled? Then do I simply lay matting down until the entire surface is covered?

What is the preferred laminating sequence? Fiberglass mash, matting, fabric and finish with 2 layers of matting? Or do I need to alternate matting and fabric until flush with surrounding fiberglass?

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Hi Kayaken, I can help with the finish process after you do your glass lamination work, not sure if there's value to a certain sequence. I haven't been on here in a while, but restored a classic 15' also. I can't seem to get pictures uploaded. I am a distributor rep for Akzo-Nobel, a coatings manufacturer that owns Sikkens, and the Awlgrip paint lines. So, with 30+ years in the paint business I hope I can be of assistance when you get to the priming, fairing, and top coat. Your more than welcome to contact me at 410-310-9449. I can send pictures by text or email. Good luck. Jeff Lohr

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Okay, more progress pictures of the cutout transom, foaming, and initial glassing.

Cutout:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwV...Xl2QUwtVzg

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwV...zhBSW5FU3M


Foaming:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwV...19mWmt6Szg

Foam Trimming:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwV...0hwaGxsWjg

I used a hacksaw blade and rasp to form the foam. To get under the existing fiberglass, I used a dremel with grinding bit to create a undercut for the fiberglass mash.

As it stands, one layer of matting and many more to go:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwV...HhMYk1HTms

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwV...HhMYk1HTms

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BwV...mpCQ3A2SGM

Next steps are to use fiberglass weave fabric (Biaxial) and continue to build up. I'll post more in a couple of days. Only time I can work on it is before work at 6:30 AM. Neighbors must think I'm nuts.

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http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1441

1708 is the standard for boatbuilding in general and for this process, the mat side goes down first. You can alternate fabric and chopped strand mat as an alternative.