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I'm in the process of restoring a 22 outrage with whaler drive.... is there a place where I can see the actual floor plans? I want to see where all the drains go.... not sure if previous owner modified. This boat is different from my previous outrages.
any info and advice would be apreciated.
Thanks

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Under MAIN, Articles, Repair Articles is a detailed writeup of a deck repair and includes photos of the fuel tank cavity, rigging tunnels etc.

http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...ticle_id=8

Assuming that you have the closed transom, the rear splashwell will be different and transom drains deleted.

What specific questions do you have?

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The previous owner filled in center lower section (where the drain plug would go if it didn't have a whaler drive, they also added 3" scupper type tubes that go out towards the WD (not sure if that's stock or not.... I'd assume if it were original, it wouldn't be pvc) also, there's 2 holes in back transom wall.

I also want to add an additional bilge pump (one on std side and one on port side and one from where the aerator pump would normally go) so I have to make larger cover where the thru hull go.... (plus the one up front)

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thanks for the response, I got some great ideas from pictures.

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The drain features you describe were from the factory, and on all Whaler Drive/Full Transom 22's and 25's.

The transom sump 1" through-hull is filled in, and to evacuate water from that area a 500 GPH bilge pump is installed, either the automatic kind, or with a separate float switch. These are direct wired, with no switch, although I have added a transom mounted override switch to mine to avoid constant cycling is there is weight in the stern of boat while docked, etc, The water enters by back flowing into the boat though the two 3" evacuation drains.

The port side floor sump typically does not come with a bilge pump, but it is adviseable to add one, also direct wired with an override switch.

The two large 3" diameter splashwell drains and through-transom drains are to evacuate a large amount of water should it come into the boat, such as taking a large wae, etc. With the closed-in transom, there is no way to quickly get rid of this water, hence the large holes. In outboard cut transom models these are not needed, since the water can simply flow out the back over the transom.

In mine, the stern floor center bait well also came with a dash controlled areator pump and spray head unit, which have valves so it can do double duty to get rid of water that will flow into the well off the boat floor. If yours doens't have this, it should be re-installed, with or without the areator capability.

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Do you have any pictures of inside the transom area?
Do the scuppers from engine well have hoses connected to them?

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SD WHALER,
I recently restored a 1989 22' outrage with whaler drive.
in my opinion, when boston whaler decided to close in the transom of our boats it was a bit of an after thought and the plumbing was poorly conceived.
As far as i can tell, the factory did the following:
-Filled in the splashwell with polyurethane foam and screwed a plastic cover over it. mine leaked and the foam was soaked
-At this new "floor level" they added a drain on each side that drained water from this area out into a void between the transom and the whaler drive. mine were poorly installed and had little to no sealant used. be sure to check this.
-They also added two drains that drain water from the main deck through to the aft area. again these are pvc and poorly installed with minimal sealant.
-They added two pvc rigging tubes to the upper part of the transom. check the seals!
It sounds like your outrage is set up similarly to the way the factory originally set it up.
for what its worth, here is what i did to mine:
-Re-installed the transom drains properly sealed with 5200
-Re-foamed and then glassed over the splashwell
-Glassed over the aft bulkhead drains and drilled new drain holes to allow water to go from the floor through drains in the aft corners into the rigging tunnels and then into the lowest point in the bilge.
-Installed a bilge pump at this lowest point
-Drilled and glassed in rigging tunnels from the aft area to the exinsting tunnels to get away from the cables, wires and hoses being exposed in the aft corners. now it is a much smoother run from the console to the motors
there are a mess of photos on the attached link. maybe its useful...
I hope this helps.
Cheers!
http://s96.photobucket.com/user/wdunl.../slideshow

(Fixed linked as requested. No problem)

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wjd, that link doesn't work. Something is missing and replaced with dots...

(Edit: I fixed the link for you. No problem and thanks)

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http://s96.photobucket.com/user/wdunl.../slideshow
Im sorry Joe. perhaps you could edit the link for me...

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WOW.
You got that hull looking new.
Nice work.

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Wow. That's a good looking boat. Good job!

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looks awesome! Thanks.
I will upload pics of progress

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Thanks for the compliments guys. I will look forward to your photos SD

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I have one more question wjd, what kind of seats did you go with? mine came with a leaning post but had holes where it had seat pedestals.
I have a new set of seats I want to use but was wondering what length pedestal should I use? as you can see, I have a super console that has a box on top,

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Hi SD, Have another look at the photos. You will see that I reinstalled the factory leaning post - one that might be the same as yours. You will also see that I modified the console to eliminate the extra box that you mention. I prefer the electronics to be flush mounted and wanted the overall height to be lower.

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WOW!! I didn't see the last pictures last time. I like what you did by running wires through back. She looks very nice. I hope mine comes out half as nice.
I kept her stock, no mods. (if I would've seen your pics before, that would be another story) She's not my first Outrage makeover and wont be the last..... next time!
I'm also working on a 27' vigilant pilot house (ex port police boat)

Thanks once again for your help

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WJD, I see you re-did the underside of your deck plate over. I'm in the early stages of removing the plywood off the underside of my 25' Revenge. Did you use 3 layers of 1/4" marine plywood? 1 full piece per layer?

What a fantastic job!! The Whale Drive looks great, that will be my next project. It was nice to see your pictures to understand it.

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I'm redoing the deck and decided to put the tubes through the back wall, as you did.
Like I said before, I would have done more of what you did, if I'd seen it earlier.
Great job! congrats!!

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Hi Scubadog,
Thanks for the compliment. When I re-did the deck panels in my boat, I used only two layers. The material that I removed was in many places rotten but it was clear that the original layup was two layers of ply with a layer of chopped strand glass between them. I chose to use birch plywood made from WBP glues. This is effectively marine grade. I used two layers of 1/2" milled down such that the overall buildup including the fibreglass would be just about 15/16". I also let in 1/2" x 4" aluminum flat bar in strategic areas so that I could drill and tap the fasteners for the console, leaning post, T top etc... The result is, in my opinion, very stiff and better than the factory. Good luck with your project.
Hi SD,
Measure twice and build a jig to guide the hole saw. There is a clear path through but there isn't much extra room to play with. Good luck.

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WJD, I'm getting ready to foam in my new tank next month. Is there anything you learned you could share to make this project an easier one? Thanks, Scubadog.

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Gorgeous, outstanding redesign and fabrication! Nice work!

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Hi Scubadog
One thing that worked well for me was to use a pressure washer. Lots of talk on the forums about cutting the foam with a hand saw but I chose to do it a bit differently. I used a zero degree tip on a pressure washer and it cut through the foam like it wasn't there. Best part is it won't damage the gel coat. I will warn you that it's a messy business but I had the tank cut out in well under an hour. Clean up was probably more than that...
Good Luck

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WJD, I made some mods after seeing yours done.... I cut holes directly
to run wires (as you did), I will also cut holes from both sides so water can drain into centre. I will put a bilge pump there. I will also add a bilge pump in the bottom of the enclosed transom.
I will create a photo bucket album to show you the before, during and after.... She looks good, if I do say so myself....
I added a stainless T top, electronics, lights etc...... I'm doing wiring now, but should have pics up by this weekend.....

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WJD, as I made holes to run wires through back wall, I enclosed the spaces on back wall. I also will be replacing the corner covers (where wires ran up.... which brings me to my question: what did you do as far as drains or screens so the water from deck to go down?

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WJD, I have a question for you... where did you install your transducer? does it go on the whaler drive or on the transom? I'm running a single motor?

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Hi SD
Ive been away awhile...sorry for the delayed response.
For the two aft corners, I cut some drain pieces from Starboard. I am fortunate to have a CNC machine so I drew a computer file that appealed to me and cut it out on the machine. I have simply placed them in the aft corners without sealant or fasteners such that I can lift them out to pull the drain plugs, clean or service those areas easily. I will try to remember to take a photo and post it for you in the future.
As far as the transducer is concerned, I mounted it on the Whaler Drive. Since I have twin outboards, I mounted it between the motors, 4" towards port of the centre line. I was worried about getting a clean flow of water there because of the step between the transom and the Whaler Drive. I used an Airmar transducer and am pleased with the results. The Whaler Drive complicates the flow of clean water and I was close to glassing in a through hull option. In hindsight, I'm glad I didn't.

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WJD, you did some GREAT WORK on your boat. Want to do the same with a 1979 22' Revenge? :) You set the bar pretty damn high for us, Holy Cow!

Its interesting that even though they are different sizes and yours is about 10 years newer than mine, there are definite similarities between the areas under the deck. Would you mind passing on a couple items of knowledge that I might be able to use. Whaler designed the deck of my Revenge to go under the cabinets that are associated with the cabin. So if I want to inspect or work on the fuel tank, that's not an easy proposition. I basically have to take apart the cabin to do it. I want to cut my deck near the front of the fuel tank cavity so future fuel tank work won't be as much of a pain. Do you have any photos of the cross member that your main deck attaches to near the front of the fuel tank? If its just the front wall of the fuel tank cavity, I'm wondering if I can just cut my deck there and then fasten both "new" ends to that cross member. I'd need to do a test drilling and see if there is any wood in there but its a possibility.

I wish I read how you used a pressure washer to cut your foam out. That was defininitely a pain to cut it out by hand. How much foam did you use to seal up your tank?

Thanks!

John

how much foam did you need to reseal your tank?

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Hi John,
Thank you for the compliments.
I had a look at your profile and saw a photo of your floor tipped up on edge. WOW that is a massive piece! The floor on my 22 is in three pieces instead of yours as one piece. My centre piece was so wet and heavy it took three of us to lift it out. Yours must weigh a ton! I attached a few photos of the moulded liner and also the floor sections. Notice the floors have a lapped joint similar to shiplap lumber. This allows the joint in the floor sections to be supported and sort of work together. The joint in the floor is over the large supporting area where the sprue hole is. You can see sealant where the screws go.
Honestly, I can't remember how much foam I used. I think I used most of two 1 gallon kits (each kit has 1 gal A and 1 gal B) so 4 gallons of liquid. The foam expands at a known rate - I think 8X volume. so you can calculate the volume required and divide by the expansion rate.
Good luck with you project
Warren

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Warren,

Thanks for the information. I'll relay your information and the photos to the fiberglass guy who will be working on the deck.

The floor was definitely heavy and nobody nearby to help out. I'd have to guess it weighs 250+ lbs. I was lucky the gelcoat didn't snap in half when I was moving it around. I was also fortunate that the boat has a lowered transom for this project. I strapped down a ramp on the transom with the other end on my utility trailer. I put the deck on edge, lifted the aft end onto the ramp and slowly let it slide down the ramp. Gravity took care of the rest. That's shade tree boat work. :)

I have a couple more questions for you if you don't mind.

1) On your boat does the raised area there at the sprue hole have any wood underneath? I thought about maybe adding a 4" x 4" to the front of the fuel tank cavity to support the new deck but now I'm thinking I will have the fiberglass guy cut the footrest associated with the starboard cabinet and then hinge it in the same manner that the port side is designed. With both footrests hinged, I could easily access the fasteners and the seal between the decks plus I'd have much more room to do the lapped joint you mentioned.

2) Where did you purchase your foam and do you recall what you paid for it? Just need to get a ballpark idea of cost so I can budget for all this spring work.

Thanks!

John

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Hi John,
I don't know if there is any wood around the sprue hole area. If the resistance to the screws being driven in is an indication, I would guess not. The underside of my floor was only 1/16" above this area and I chose to bed the forward floor section in 3M 4200 such that it was semi permanently installed - I certainly would not want to remove it. The tank covering section then screws into the lap joint to connect the two floor sections together and the seam is caulked with tinted silicone. This results in a very solid floor which could be removed. Removal would be a big job as the T top, console and leaning post would all have to go first.
I bought the foam and for that matter most of the fibreglass/gelcoat supplies from a place called Coast Fiber Tek. If I recall correctly the cost for the foam was near $300.00.
I hope this helps.

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Thanks Warren. Appreciate your help and I'll relay your information to the fiberglass guy. Apparently he is big into the use of composites and used to work at one of the largest Whaler dealerships on the East Coast before retiring so it will be interesting to hear what he comes up with. I know next to nothing about working with fiberglass so I'm hoping I might learn how its done

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WJD, here's a link to my whaler.... check out the pics, let me know what you think

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Hi SD, I found your ad on Craigslist. It looks terrific! I can't believe you're selling it after all that work. You ought to get a little blood on the decks first! Good luck

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WJD

From one of the pics it appears your outrage had a cuddy at one time. If so was it difficult to get off or just the repair of screws being most of the project.

Where are you BC are? I lived at the cost, moved to the Okanagan and looking for a project. Want something to blast around on the lake and use at the coast.

Read your posts on horse power. Interesting topic. US coast guard has no ratings but suggest LXWX2-90. However, manufactures like to use less as liability reducer. The project I want to do is similar an outrage I saw in Italy; twin 300 on 27 footer. Your suggestion of moving weight forward makes sense to me.

Extremely nice outrage WD.

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I hope you guys don’t mind if I open this old thread. I have a 1990 Outrage 22 WD that I will repower next week. It has the 77 gallon fuel tank and the batteries were moved to the console. I was hoping to get some insight on how the twin Suzuki DF140 have performed. Any details on performance numbers, mounting height, and what props were used would be appreciated.