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Does the fuel outlet/pickup have a screen? Having engine issues that may be related to fuel delivery and have been hesitant to try unbolting the fuel outlet of the tank. I would hate to damage the tank's thread and need to replace the tank.

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Mine did not. All the junk from the hole in my tank passed right thru the pick up to the filter.

1980 Outrage V20

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Thanks, then I will skip trying wrestle the outlet fitting off of the tank.

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Is the fuel pickup part of an round inspection panel with about 8 screws on top of the tank?

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My 1979 22' Revenge (Outrage hull with cuddy) had a very fine mesh screen on the end of the fuel pick up tube. My motor sometimes would bog down. I would shut down until all the crud in the tank settled . My tank was plastic and the fitting was pressed into place. I ended up installing a 4" tank access cover and tapped a hole for my new fuel pick up assembly.
Garris

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It would be best to change out your pick up tube for one without a screen and install a spin on water separating filter that will pick up any debris's that gets into your system.

My thought is make your problem at an area you can easily access....The filter!


I just had a tank built and the people that built the tank drilled a hole on the backside of the tapered intake on the pickup tube(at the bottom) (link to fuel pick up tube http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-pt-16/overview/ ) so it couldn't pick up big debris and block it off.. I thought this was an awesome idea....They have been building tanks for years....Old school for them!!

Summit also carries the hose nipple for the pick up as well. The pick up tube and nipple will cost you around $30.00.

I wouldn't worry about the threads on your tank. If you bugger them up you can easily clean them out with a $9.00 tap from Amazon. Here is a link to a tap
http://www.amazon.com/Vermont-American-20373-Carbon-Steel/dp/B000GAUZ3Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1440244665&sr=8-1&keywords=3%2F8+npt+pipe+tap

Also, check and make certain you are not sucking air somewhere along the line between your tank and your motor. That will cause your motor to starve for fuel at top speeds as well.....Been there, done that on that one!

If the problem is a blockage at the tank often your priming bulb will collapse because of the vacuum of the motor pulling fuel on the backside of the blockage.

My .02 cents!

Vance

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I haven't had the collapsed bulb problem since switching to a new Mercury bulb, replaced the fuel line from the tank and added a filter/separator, and new fuel with stabil in July. The only thing I haven't done is the tank's fuel pickup.

The new 1/2" fuel line is difficult to remove from any fitting except the bulb so I don't think there is a line air leak.

Looks like tomorrow's project is pulling the tank's fuel pick up.

Thanks for the suggestions.

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Have you eliminated the fuel pump as a potential source of the problem?

I would not mess with the tank until you eliminate the motor.

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Not sure how to test the motor's combo fuel/VRO pump. Oil level is dropping so that half seems OK. Motor has run better with a deck tank but that could be keel tank issues or a weak pump happier with less lift with a deck tank

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What's the make/model of your engine? We converted many of the old VROs back to the simple engine suction fuel pump for such testing. If it worked we'd generally leave the dependable fuel pump mounted in place and mix the oil and fuel.

VRO=Very Rarely Oiled. :)

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1990 150hp Evinrude with an apparently functioning VRO system. More complete description of the engine problems over in the engine section.

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Found that my V-20 fuel outlet has a plastic hose that comes out of the tank about 8" before something on the end will not go through the opening. Blew into the outlet and felt no resistance so I don't think fuel pickup is a problem.

Noticed the the plastic hose turned easily on the outlet connection, should that have a clamp?

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Most all of the old school mechanic's out here recommend disabling the VRO on the older OMC motors. They just have too bad of a reputation of failure and it is not worth the huge repair costs to damaged power heads when they act up.

I disconnected mine on my 1992 Johnson GT 200 immediately after I bought it because of the VRO issues, premix it a 50 to 1 and it is still running strong today. This motor has had a jet pump on it more than the prop over its 22 years and Jets are incredibly hard on the motors. When oiled and de carbonized they are like the energizer bunny...Take a licking and keep on ticking!

I believe the 1990 150 is a cross flow motor that was around for years and did a great job. It even had a little more grunt in the low end than the loopers.

What I would recommend is to run your boat on a separate portable well vented tank to see if the problem arises. Be sure and use a 3/8" fuel system and lines.... 1/4 " is too restrictive for those older 2 strokes. I had a rigger put a 1/4 fitting in my 3/8" fuel line and it took me a while to figure out what he had done....Those motors need gas....A LOT of gas but there is no better power to weight performance than what you have when it is running correctly.

Vance

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Thanks Vance. The last time the engine ran well was off of a deck tank and I need to try that again. After the good run I have been trying to make the hull tank work with a new filter, 3/8" fuel line from the tank, and a new bulb.

Fills the garage with smoke when I run it on the driveway and the VRO tank oil level is slowly going down, so I will give that system a pass for now.

Thanks for the comments on the 150, one thought is a newer used motor, perhaps with lower HP to save a few bucks.

Time for deck tank test again and then the hull tank - may try bypassing the external filter if it doesn't run off the hull tank. Mercury pressure bulb has the smallest openings of all the connections.

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On my old tank I first found debris caught behind the ball check valve. The tiny pieces of foam could not get around the ball and were backing up there. Another thing to check.

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Hi Cy,

You might check to see if your boat came with an anti-siphon valve in the nipple on the fuel tank. If it does, that could be your issue as well. I believe they are required on Inboard's but not necessary on Outboards. My 1980 22 Revenge did not have one....And isn't going to on the new tank either!

I know guys that have had problems and took the ball and spring out of theirs. Problem solved!

Good luck with your search. You really need to find the issue because the last thing you want to do to a two stroke is run it lean. Sometimes little things like this can be very time consuming!

Vance