Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Removing gas tank deck cover. 2004, 240 outrage.
Posted by pecos23 on 08/14/15 - 1:41 PM
#1
I have to remove my gas tank cover on a 2004, 240 Boston whaler. To do this I have to lift the center console which requires me to remove the bolts that mount the tee top to the deck. Problem, front mount bolts and nuts are not accessible from below. Apparently the tee top is bolted to the deck prior to being lifted and bonded to the hull and filled with foam.
Does anyone on this site have experience or knowledge of how this needs to be done? Boston whaler says I have to cut access holes into the inner hull to access this space. Lifting this gas tank cover it turning into a huge project! Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Posted by Phil T on 08/15/15 - 2:48 PM
#2
The method you describe for attaching the T-Top is the correct way.
I would remove the console, seating and lift the cover and top together. A yard with a large forklift or a custom A frame will do the job.
Why do you need to remove the tank cover?
Posted by pecos23 on 08/19/15 - 6:34 AM
#3
The deck cover has gotten wet somehow and is getting soft. I need to remove to repair the rotten wood. The entire deck assembly was lowered down with the gas tank deck installed, the tee top MUST be removed from the deck to allow the CC to be lifted at least 6 inches to allow the front of the gas tank deck to be removed. The gas tank cover is designed so the front lip goes under the cc about 3 inches forward and has a cut out where all the cables and wires run. The deck is now bonded to the rest of the boat by foam. It can't be lifted the same way it went in now that the foam has been injected. Bad design for any below deck repairs.
Posted by gchuba on 08/19/15 - 7:05 AM
#4
Whaler did something similar in my 1979 22' Revenge. The cuddy blocks a row of screws for deck removal (I will cut the deck before removing the cuddy). I have changed truck beds, etc.... Do find some one with a forklift. Well worth the investment. I have tried A-frames, cribbing, block and tackle, etc.... Unless you can find out the weight, and if light enough, some burly buddies can lend a hand. If a heavy unit.... a lot of time involved and chance of damage. Unfortunately, bite the bullet with the design issue.
Garris
Posted by pecos23 on 08/23/15 - 6:38 PM
#6
Yes, I have printed these out from whaler parts.com. That's what made me realize that they used machine bolts with nuts that need to be accessed from below.
The rear mount is easy to see, the forward mounts not so. Thanks for the prints.
What in really need is someone who has experience removing this tee top and console.
Thanks Phil.
Posted by Silentpardner on 08/24/15 - 11:05 AM
#7
I was not aware that there was
any wood under the deck of a
2004 Outrage 240. It is my understanding that BW started using "whaler board", a material similar to starboard, several years before 2004.
This material could never rot, it is NOT wood at all. Water could not "make it soft", if this is true.
Edited by Silentpardner on 08/24/15 - 11:08 AM
Posted by pecos23 on 08/26/15 - 4:53 PM
#8
The hydrometer is reading up to 16% water in the deck and it is soft and flexes. If you are right, the guys at whaler never mentioned this during our conversations. Maybe no wood in the hull, but I think they still use wood in other areas.
Posted by Silentpardner on 08/26/15 - 5:18 PM
#9
pecos23, Have you directly asked Boston Whaler if the decks are made using wood-core or whalerboard in their construction? I am curious...