Posted by EJO on 08/22/14 - 11:55 AM
#22
dauntless-n-miami wrote:
Hello EJO and excellent looking Montauk 150.
Thank you Angel and see my responses below. I loved your detailed reply and thank you for taking the time to respond in such detail, you made the scale tip to what we both think is the right side.
I have been following your thread and will offer some opinions, exhaust all avenues to correct your hulls "getting on plane" issue before drilling into your transom.
My concern too hence the original question, I don't want to repair something after putting holes in and taking it off because of no performance difference.
As is my case, a 15 foot hull length with barely over 5 feet of beam is extremely and uncomfortably sensitive to trim tab input.
My new 150 is slightly wider and heavier, but you are probably right
What actually concerns me is the lack of any strong substrate within the transom area where your trim tabs need to affix to.
My concern too I don't see any substrate where I should be mounting. I have used the same fasteners you used for your tabs to hold down a large cooler we use for storage and a seat, can't be beat and the SS screws work fine with the brass.
My situation is a bit different since my Dauntless is slightly over-powered, there's sufficient power for the "hole-shot" but a bit more weight as well. I typically boat with 4 occupants (my wife and our 2 adult kids and soon my daughters boy friend) that will make 5 adults and he's a big guy. My Yamaha 2 stroke is mounted all the way up, cavitation plate is about 1-1/4 to 1-3/8 inch above our so-called keel. From my personal experience, my set-up is great but a jack plate could make it more interesting.
I love to have a little more power like a 70HP E-tec 2/S, but that's not going to happen in the near future as long as my 60HP Bigfoot purrs like a kitten as it does. It sounds like you run with the same type weight as I do quite often.
I would have to consciously feather the throttle until the stern would rise. And yes, the drive or lower unit would be tucked all in rather no positive trim.
That is my current problem with a larger load, hence I have to move a person to the bow and back to achieve quicker plane.
As I have given up on re-laying-out my transom to accommodate trim-tabs I'm now looking at going 4-bladed prop and OB re-mount
How is your weight distribution??? Fuel and battery location???
I still have the 2 single 6-1/2 gallon tanks under the RPS, battery in CC, also an quick start emergency portable battery, 11 lbs Danforth and 12 lbs river(3 blade mushroom) with 15ft of 3/8 chane and 200+ ft of rode in bow locker, than I also have a large 128qt cooler in front of the OB (where live-well would sit) as an extra seat and filled with PFD's, fenders, lines, etc. and of course the small cooler with food and drinks in front of the CC, All this adds extra weight and convenience.
You can forgo a hoist or pulley system to raise your outboard EJO, if you have a healthy floor jack and you are comfortable with some wood work you can construct an appropriate bracing or cradle for your lower unit that will possibly supports either the gear case, cavitation plate or both and with 1 or 2 friends carefully raise your outboard up to a new position.
Thank you for that [b]great tip[/] as that I can do pretty easy (might do that this weekend) I'll mount one hole higher (which I think will be slightly over 1" above the "keel").
If you are aware of a local prop shop they sometimes will due a "lend-lease" plan for you to test a propeller before purchasing. Just supply them with spec's of your whaler to use as a guide during a selection.
I'm in Michigan where they only have 4 months or so to make money on boating so there isn't a service like that here at least not in my area. I tried it with Michigan Wheel which manufacturers close by here in Grand Rapids for my twin engine 32' cruiser and believe you me those brass props were a lot more expensive than a small OB prop and therefore had a much larger margin in them if they would sell. Here it is buy, try, and re-sell at a loss, if it didn't work. Theory is theory, practice makes perfect.
Porpoising is an interesting phenomenon[/quote
Yes it is and dangerous, hence I like to get rid of it,
[quote]I have shared a lengthy post with you in the hopes that you consider other factors and/or solutions to your "getting on plane" dilemma before embarking on drilling into your transom. If I had to re-do my tabs sometime in the future I would remove them completely.
I thank you for that and yes I try the engine up on the transom and a 4-bladed prop, before drilling, mounting, getting another ladder, etc.
If raising your outboard remember to re-seal the transom fasteners/bolts for the outboard with an appropriate sealant such as 3M's 4200. I consider the 5200 a bit to aggressive for this application but, that's my opinion.
I agree. It si above the waterline so I shall use 4200 or poly-sulfide bedding compound.
We'll raise the engine first and then try the 4 bladed prop in the near future if I get a chance to do so B-4 the water gets hard here up North and post results.
Thanks again Angel and "Happy Boating" to you too...