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Hello EJO and excellent looking Montauk 150. I have been following your thread and will offer some opinions, exhaust all avenues to correct your hulls "getting on plane" issue before drilling into your transom.

I have hydraulic Bennett trim tabs on my Dauntless 15 and have as of yet to actually deploy them (and I've owned my Whaler since mid-2008). The previous owner had them installed and what a mess I discovered. I am aware that you are considering a "self-adjusting" type but, how sensitive are they when slapping against mild to choppy surf? Can the attitude of the hull be suddenly affected should a tab change or loose it's height setting? As is my case, a 15 foot hull length with barely over 5 feet of beam is extremely and uncomfortably sensitive to trim tab input.

What actually concerns me is the lack of any strong substrate within the transom area where your trim tabs need to affix to. Soon after purchasing my Dauntless I discovered numerous loose fasteners at the trim tab bracket to transom plate along with inadequate sealant. Small amount of moisture wicked for days from the various fastener locations (for both Port and Starboard) when I dismounted the tabs. Review my project album for the repair method I used due to the lack of any wood or ample fiberglass thickness in those immediate areas. It was a mission to due it properly.

My situation is a bit different since my Dauntless is slightly over-powered, there's sufficient power for the "hole-shot" but a bit more weight as well. I typically boat with 4 occupants (my wife and our 2 adult kids and soon my daughters boy friend) that will make 5 adults and he's a big guy. My Yamaha 2 stroke is mounted all the way up, cavitation plate is about 1-1/4 to 1-3/8 inch above our so-called keel. From my personal experience, my set-up is great but a jack plate could make it more interesting.

Originally I had a Solas (early model) Saturn S.S. 3-Blade 13-1/4" Dia. x 17P prop with round ears. Some sites reference these props as bow-lifting and it certainly is/was. When attempting plane it would bury the stern and point the bow to the clouds, I would have to consciously feather the throttle until the stern would rise. And yes, the drive or lower unit would be tucked all in rather no positive trim. Now I am using a new to me Power Tech S.S. 3-Blade 13" X 17P "Semi-Cleaver" prop configured for the Yamaha 90 2 stroke. This particular "Semi-Cleaver" prop is modeled off of a Yamaha OEM prop, "Semi-Cleaver" props are considered a stern-lifting prop and this one certainly is. With the 4 of us I can get on plane immediately when coming out of the hole with minimal stern drag. Staying on plane at lesser rpm has also been an added benefit that the Solas struggled with.

I replaced the OEM fiberglass Pate 15 gallon fuel tank with a Moeller plastic 18 gal which resides within my helm seat housing. I feel this tank location offers a slightly better weight distribution unlike smaller tanks at the stern regardless of their capacities. My single battery is located within the center console as well.

How is your weight distribution??? Fuel and battery location???

You can forgo a hoist or pulley system to raise your outboard EJO, if you have a healthy floor jack and you are comfortable with some wood work you can construct an appropriate bracing or cradle for your lower unit that will possibly supports either the gear case, cavitation plate or both and with 1 or 2 friends carefully raise your outboard up to a new position. If you are aware of a local prop shop they sometimes will due a "lend-lease" plan for you to test a propeller before purchasing. Just supply them with spec's of your whaler to use as a guide during a selection.

Porpoising is an interesting phenominum, My Dauntless is seriously "positive trim" sensative. Fortunately I have a Yamaha digital tach with a trim bar display and over time and use I have finally found my outboards sweet spot, 3 bars up on the display and all the throttle she wants until the moderate chop influences the ride then drop it 1 bar down.

I have shared a lenghty post with you in the hopes that you consider other factors and/or solutions to your "getting on plane" dilemma before embarking on drilling into your transom. If I had to re-do my tabs sometime in the future I would remove them completely.

If raising your outboard remember to re-seal the transom fasteners/bolts for the outboard with an appropriate sealant such as 3M's 4200. I consider the 5200 a bit to aggressive for this application but, that's my opinion.

Best of luck with your solution and "Happy Boating"...

Angel M.