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I am fairly versed in boats, but I need some of my fellow Whaler owners input. I recently acquired a 1968 whaler 13' sport with a lot of stress and structural cracks, which i have repaired with a dremel, duraglass and glass .

I have successfully built and molded boats before so I am not afraid of glassing. I'm just wondering number one what is the make most sense way to dry the core?

Here is my plan. I was going to remove the center floor ( I want to make a flat floor anyway) and carve out as much foam from everywhere I can reach. I have replaced rotten stringers in boats where i recall pouring acetone into the areas non reachable to wick the moisture out of wet wood. I think the acetone would harm the remaining foam here however so I was thinking about drilling 1" holes with a 12" spaid bit through the top of the gunnel all the way around and finding a product that evaporates but wont harm polyurethane like isopropal alcohol or something. also I have built curved transoms with balsa and honeycomb in layers before but its a lot of work and am intrigued by this pourable transom material I read about where you vertically cut out the old wood transom with a chain saw and then simply pour in your brand new transom.

Lastly, there seem to be alot of nice features fom all the different model years that i would like to combine. The sourpuss interior has the center steering which leaves the throttle too far away and aykward with a passenger yet the sport interior has the steering too far to the Starboard leaving the boat unbalanced with just the driver.

Should I keep the boat the original blue and white? Awlgip or gelcoat? What is the most desirable classic 13 whaler for resale? Any input would be appreciated.