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I'm contemplating the installation of a Minn Kota SP 55 trolling motor on my 1998 Dauntless 15. I plan to install the battery in the center console along with the starting battery that is already in the console. I'd like to have the trolling motor connection to take place inside the anchor locker with a disconnect type plug so that I can remove the trolling motor when not being used for fishing.

My question is where/how to route the battery leads to the anchor locker. One possibility is to run the leads through the rigging tunnel to the rear of the boat and then through the rub rail to the front. This might require replacing the rub rail since it is 16 years old, but I'd like not to since the rub rail is still in good shape. Another route would be to run the TM cables trough a small hole in the front of the console, than under the console cooler/seat, over a short portion of the front deck and up through the drain for the anchor locker. This is the most direct and seemingly easiest route if I can find some sort of low profile wire raceway to put on deck to keep the leads from tangling with feet.

If anyone has any sage advice on this project I'd appreciate all the help I can get.

Gary

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Plan "A" back and forth through the rigging tunnel and the rubrail definately seems too long of a run. You'll need pretty big wires to avoid voltage drop...

On mine (a 1991 Outrage 17), I simply put the TM plug in front of the console and when I use it, I ran the cables on the short portion (1ft. or so) of the front deck then under the cooler/seat to the plug. Yes, there's a possibility of tripping on the cables when in use but it's still better than a permanent raceway that's always there...

http://whalercentral.com/forum/viewth...d_id=16516

Edit: I just saw on your personal page that there's no bow rail in the way. The quick disconnect bracket installation will be a piece of cake!

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Thanks, Saumon,

I'm leaning towards feeding the TM supply leads from the front of the console, as well. I've made a template of the RTA 17 disconnect mounting plate for the SP 55 and will see how it fits on the bow area of the Dauntless. My concern is that it will conflict with the mooring cleat that now occupies the space where the connect plate would need to be mounted.

Gary

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Hello Gary and it's been a while, how is the "Admiral" and yourself doing these day's.

Gary I would suggest taking a look at the wood/composite backing location diagram available right here in W/C for the Dauntless 15. How are you planning to mount/attach the trolling motor base to the bow area?

The deck lay-up is not very thick if you miss the composite backing material when installing hardware for the TM.

The wire gauge needed for the TM will be to large to run through the rub-rail as discussed. Your console idea sounds good and there are applicable plastic race-ways that you can use to conseal the wires between the cooler seat and the anchor locker drain port. I think a company that you can look at for the race-way is "Wire Mould".

Most Home Depots and Lowes will carry these products and there easy to mount and remove later. They mount via double sided tape or you can remove the tape and use Silicone or 3M's 4200 for a better attachment.

Happy Engineering with this project...
Angel M.

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Thanks Angel,

As usual, you are a wealth of Duantless" info.........

I'll check out the wire concealers at HD and Lowes.

Gary

PS, the Admiral is a feisty as ever. and totally smitten with our Dauntless 15.

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The Dauntless looks great Gary. We're going to need fresh pictures once the trolling motor is mounted. I've puzzled over that one for a while now.

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Ok, so here's the final on this story.

After much research, planning and pricing, we've decided to not install a trolling motor (at least not at this time).

Although it could be done, it would mean we would loose the starboard bow cleat, have to drill quite a few holes in the bow coaming, jury rig some electrical routing across the deck, and have a big hunk of accessory on the bow of the boat getting in the way of the actual fishing. Not to mention the cost which was well over $1,200 for the parts and the motor/battery.

We like the looks of our boat just as it is, and we like just drifting the flats as we fish. Sometimes less is more.....

Thanks for all the great advice, and if we change our minds, it will be invaluable.

Gary