Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos

Posted by wing15601 on 04/12/14 - 7:17 AM

WS? West system epoxy? Yes, epoxy will deteriorate in sunlight unless it is covered with something with a UV inhibitor. The two part varnishes last the longest. Put on a very minimum of three coats of whatever you use. If you used the Smiths you really don't need any more epoxy.

Edited by wing15601 on 04/12/14 - 7:18 AM

Posted by YoAdrian on 04/12/14 - 10:31 AM

wing15601 wrote:
WS? West system epoxy? Yes, epoxy will deteriorate in sunlight unless it is covered with something with a UV inhibitor. The two part varnishes last the longest. Put on a very minimum of three coats of whatever you use. If you used the Smiths you really don't need any more epoxy.

I used 3 coats of Smith's penetrating epoxy, and just got done applying a coat of 105 resin and 207 hardener. So should I now go right to a varnish?

Posted by wing15601 on 04/12/14 - 12:41 PM

When the epoxy is cured sand to give the varnish a tooth to grab onto then apply the varnish. Everyone has a different method for applying varnish. I have always found it best to just follow the instructions on the can. No primer or anything needed between the epoxy and varnish.

Posted by YoAdrian on 04/13/14 - 5:35 AM

So by the sounds I need a 2 part varnish, must sand before applying, and might need to soap wash after sanding? Epifanes makes a no sand varnish however it doesn't look like a 2 part...Anybody have experience with a particular type for a similar situation?

I am planning to install the console into the boat today, however if I need to apply 3 coats of varnish I might wait to make things easier...I have 3 coats of epoxy and 1 coat of resin/hardener, do I still need 3 coats of varnish?

Thanks for the help!

Posted by wing15601 on 04/13/14 - 7:35 AM

...I have 3 coats of epoxy and 1 coat of resin/hardener, do I still need 3 coats of varnish?

It sounds from that statement that you have applied resin and hardener separately. If so it must be a gooey mess. Smith's penetrating epoxy sealer is designed to be sufficient without any other epoxy coating. If you've applied more epoxy, properly mixed with the harder, that's fine, just a waste of time and money. Not all epoxy leaves an amine blush, check with the West System web site to see if that which you have used doses. If it does, awash it with plenty of water and dry as the amine is water soluble and will rinse away. If the site ss says it does not leave a blush then proceed with sanding before varnishing. if it does leave a blush, don't sand first as that will just grind the amine waxes down into the surface. The no sand varnish doesn't mean you don't have to sand before applying it. It means you don't have to sand between coats if you follow the directions on the can.

Posted by wannabe on 04/13/14 - 5:47 PM

I used this method last year on all my teak except for the Smith's. Three coats of a good varnish is needed for the UV protection or the West System will yellow. 3-4 coats of West System and 3 coats of varnish with UV. Very pleased with the results.

Edited by wannabe on 04/13/14 - 5:49 PM

Posted by YoAdrian on 04/14/14 - 3:01 PM

#10

Paisano wrote:
A good 2-part varnish you might want to use is Interlux's Perfection Plus. The item no. is YVA950. Its a polyurethane and will set up much harder than conventional oil based varnish.

Craig,
Does this still have the UV protection of a conventional varnish?

Posted by YoAdrian on 04/16/14 - 3:49 PM

#11

wing15601 wrote:
...I have 3 coats of epoxy and 1 coat of resin/hardener, do I still need 3 coats of varnish?

It sounds from that statement that you have applied resin and hardener separately. If so it must be a gooey mess. Smith's penetrating epoxy sealer is designed to be sufficient without any other epoxy coating. If you've applied more epoxy, properly mixed with the harder, that's fine, just a waste of time and money. Not all epoxy leaves an amine blush, check with the West System web site to see if that which you have used doses. If it does, awash it with plenty of water and dry as the amine is water soluble and will rinse away. If the site ss says it does not leave a blush then proceed with sanding before varnishing. if it does leave a blush, don't sand first as that will just grind the amine waxes down into the surface. The no sand varnish doesn't mean you don't have to sand before applying it. It means you don't have to sand between coats if you follow the directions on the can.

I was informed last year that I need the WS 207/105, I thought it seemed strange when I was applying it that I needed that as well. I applied together so no gooey mess. I have already sanded it, but will now wash with soap water as it does leave amine blush. I ordered the interlux to apply next...

Posted by wing15601 on 04/16/14 - 7:07 PM

#12

So when you wash away the blush be sure to use a cloth and rub the soap and water in prior to rinsing, let it dry well and you should be good to go. Whatever varnish/finish you use, be sure it has UV inhibitors in it. For as many different brands and types of finish there is someone who thinks his choice is best. Just use a well known brand and follow the instructions on the can.