Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Question re: installing/wiring bilge pump in a Montauk

Posted by SJNENG on 07/27/09 - 7:02 PM
#1

I have a Rule automatic bilge pump, 500 gal/hr,

I would like to know if anyone has installed this, or similar pump, in a 17' Montauk. I would like to install it so that it is recessed in the well aft of the reak plate. Also, this pump can use a 3 position switch (off, automatic, reverse polarity to force it to run). Is there a switch that can mount on the existing mount for the lights?

Also, I am oipen to recommendations as to other pump models.

Appreciate any advice.

Thanks - Steve

Posted by Joe Kriz on 07/27/09 - 7:05 PM
#2

I had the Rule Mate 500 with the built-in automatic switch in my prior Montauk.
It fits nicely in the sump.

Rule sells separate switches or if you are lucky enough to find an original Boston Whaler switch.
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=12

Posted by SJNENG on 07/27/09 - 8:14 PM
#3

Hi Joe,

Appreciate the info. How did you mount the pump in the well? What hardware did you use?

Thanks,
Steve

Posted by Guts on 07/27/09 - 9:46 PM
#4

Use a small piece of tubing on the pump with a 90° next to the outlet make them tight to each other, The pump and the 90° should touch each other. Then It will be pointed up. you can see mine last picture on personal page. You can see the discharge on the first picture. The pump just sets in there just forward enough to put the drain plug in.

Edited by Guts on 07/27/09 - 9:50 PM

Posted by Phil T on 07/28/09 - 5:16 AM
#5

Steve -

I took a members advice on installing the pump to the sump. The bottom of the pump has a screen that clips to the base. I used a dab of 3m 4200 (adhesive) and attached the screen to the sump. I then clipped the pump into the screen once it had set.

Another good suggestion I read, to save drilling holes is to adhere a thin composite board with adhesive and then drill/screw into that for the pump and float switch.

For the console, I went with Rule's 3 way rocker switch with light. I liked that it had the fuse in the panel and the light would go on when it was pumping.

I think there is a photo my dash on my personal page.

Posted by MW on 07/28/09 - 9:03 AM
#6

I just wired the pump to the float switch, any water comes in, the pump automatically goes on (use "in-line" waterproof fuse, wire, terminal ring, ya done).

Posted by brooks89 on 07/28/09 - 2:01 PM
#7

For a few more $$ you can buy the Rulemate 750. 50% more pumping capability in the same size package as the 500.

Wiring tips: be sure to use adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors, then put heat shrink adhesive lined tubing over those, then for real belts and suspenders swab those with liquid electrical tape. Of course be sure everything works as it's supposed to before going through all that.

Tips for reliability: If you take the blue cover off the bottom of the pump you will see two screws that hold the pump together. Those self tapping screws are too fat for the posts they go into. (bad design, but it is what it is.) If tightened too much they will split those posts possibly reducing the clearance the magnetic float needs to move up and down and activate the pump. Check them and make sure the posts aren't split already. I've seen more than one that were.

Also, on curved wall of the float chamber you will see a small hole designed to allow air to bleed out as the water fills the float chamber. I recomend carefully and cleanly enlarging that hole just the slightest bit (like one more drill bit size than it is already) to more easily allow the air to escape.

finally A small squirt of detergent into the sump once in while cuts the oil and grease build up that can gum up the pump and float causing problems.

These pumps don't have the greatest reputation for long life and reliabliity but doing these few things can make them work much more problem free.

Posted by MW on 07/28/09 - 2:11 PM
#8

my boat's "open". If I get more than one season out of a "Rule" 500gph pump, we "celebrate". You'll see a pledge of "Indestructibility" on the back of the pkg., disregard it.

Posted by SJNENG on 07/28/09 - 2:58 PM
#9

brooks89 wrote:
For a few more $$ you can buy the Rulemate 750. 50% more pumping capability in the same size package as the 500.

Wiring tips: be sure to use adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors, then put heat shrink adhesive lined tubing over those, then for real belts and suspenders swab those with liquid electrical tape. Of course be sure everything works as it's supposed to before going through all that.

Tips for reliability: If you take the blue cover off the bottom of the pump you will see two screws that hold the pump together. Those self tapping screws are too fat for the posts they go into. (bad design, but it is what it is.) If tightened too much they will split those posts possibly reducing the clearance the magnetic float needs to move up and down and activate the pump. Check them and make sure the posts aren't split already. I've seen more than one that were.

Also, on curved wall of the float chamber you will see a small hole designed to allow air to bleed out as the water fills the float chamber. I recomend carefully and cleanly enlarging that hole just the slightest bit (like one more drill bit size than it is already) to more easily allow the air to escape.

finally A small squirt of detergent into the sump once in while cuts the oil and grease build up that can gum up the pump and float causing problems.

These pumps don't have the greatest reputation for long life and reliabliity but doing these few things can make them work much more problem free.


____________________

I really appreciate your info. The Rule 500 is a self contained pump that does not use a float switch. It will pump when it detects water resistance. The pump will run at intervals, seeking resistance from water. If it detects sufficient resistance due to water, it will contimue to run. I would like to mount it in the well. I am not sure what hardware to use to mount it.

Posted by JMcCorison on 07/28/09 - 8:02 PM
#10

brooks89 wrote:
... then put heat shrink adhesive lined tubing over those, then for real belts and suspenders swab those with liquid electrical tape.


Good quality adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors, properly installed, are sufficient. When applying heat, use a heat gun, not a cigarette lighter or butane torch. Evenly applied steady heat is required. Start from the center of the butt connector and move outwards to each end. Properly done you should have no air bubbles inside the connector. When properly shrunk you should notice a slight reduction in the length of the connector and you should see adhesive slightly oozing out of the joint. At this point remove the heat and let the connector air cool before securing.

In my opinion covering the butt connector with heat shrink tubing is not a good idea. First, a properly done heat shrink connection is more than sufficient. Second, if somebody can't get the butt connector heat shrink right, they probably won't get the heat shrink tube right either. And most importantly, the covering of the butt connector is translucent so if water intrudes and starts corroding, a visual inspection will show it.

Just my $0.02 worth.

Edited by JMcCorison on 07/28/09 - 8:03 PM

Posted by SJNENG on 07/28/09 - 8:46 PM
#11

JMcCorison wrote:
brooks89 wrote:
... then put heat shrink adhesive lined tubing over those, then for real belts and suspenders swab those with liquid electrical tape.


Good quality adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors, properly installed, are sufficient. When applying heat, use a heat gun, not a cigarette lighter or butane torch. Evenly applied steady heat is required. Start from the center of the butt connector and move outwards to each end. Properly done you should have no air bubbles inside the connector. When properly shrunk you should notice a slight reduction in the length of the connector and you should see adhesive slightly oozing out of the joint. At this point remove the heat and let the connector air cool before securing.

In my opinion covering the butt connector with heat shrink tubing is not a good idea. First, a properly done heat shrink connection is more than sufficient. Second, if somebody can't get the butt connector heat shrink right, they probably won't get the heat shrink tube right either. And most importantly, the covering of the butt connector is translucent so if water intrudes and starts corroding, a visual inspection will show it.

Just my $0.02 worth.


Thanks again for the info. I know how to connect it electrically. How did you mount it in the well, especially to be able to get at the drain plug?

Posted by MW on 07/29/09 - 3:19 AM
#12

A float switch will just fit in the sump with a 500 gph pump, it's less expensive to replace (pump) for me since I go through pump's rather quickly.

Posted by brooks89 on 07/29/09 - 2:05 PM
#13

SJNENG:

Sorry for the confusion. I saw Joe's comment about having the Rulemate 500, which uses an internal float switch... You have the cylinder-shaped Rule with the chip that turns on at intervals to check for water... I believe Rule makes a mounting bracket for that pump. Though that would still require screws. My solution was to fashion a small piece of teak that bridges the bilge well. It's screwed down with 3M sealant in the screw holes. The Rulemate pump fits perfectly in place by friction fit. I have room to pull the plug with it in place...

Posted by Joe Kriz on 07/29/09 - 2:30 PM
#14

My solution was NOTHING...

There are enough wires in the tunnel to hold the Rule-Mate pump in place.
I put the steering cable and the throttle/shift cables right on top of the pump.
The pump never moved.

Many people prefer the Rule-Mate with the built-in switch because the pump does NOT come on unless the switch rises due to water. This saves battery life as opposed to the other Rule 500 that automatically turns itself on to sense for water. To me, that is senseless.... Why waste battery just to sense for water.

However, everyone likes what they like and have different reasons for using different types of equipment.

Posted by SJNENG on 07/30/09 - 2:45 PM
#15

brooks89 wrote:
SJNENG:

Sorry for the confusion. I saw Joe's comment about having the Rulemate 500, which uses an internal float switch... You have the cylinder-shaped Rule with the chip that turns on at intervals to check for water... I believe Rule makes a mounting bracket for that pump. Though that would still require screws. My solution was to fashion a small piece of teak that bridges the bilge well. It's screwed down with 3M sealant in the screw holes. The Rulemate pump fits perfectly in place by friction fit. I have room to pull the plug with it in place...


Thanks - that's what I needed to know!!

Steve

Posted by SJNENG on 07/30/09 - 2:47 PM
#16

Joe Kriz wrote:
My solution was NOTHING...

There are enough wires in the tunnel to hold the Rule-Mate pump in place.
I put the steering cable and the throttle/shift cables right on top of the pump.
The pump never moved.

Many people prefer the Rule-Mate with the built-in switch because the pump does NOT come on unless the switch rises due to water. This saves battery life as opposed to the other Rule 500 that automatically turns itself on to sense for water. To me, that is senseless.... Why waste battery just to sense for water.

However, everyone likes what they like and have different reasons for using different types of equipment.


Thanks Joe,

Steve

Steve