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I have a 1990 Revenge. I'm considering installing copper fuel lines from my fuel tank to my Racor fuel/water seperator mounted to the starboard gunnel. Then using rubber fuel lines to the engines. Any thoughts about corrosion from be submerged every now and again when the tunnels hold water. The fuel tank is grounded to the original bronze ground disc which is mounted to the transom. I know on larger vessels manufacturers use copper lines, but most of those lines never get submerged.

Thanks in advance,

Norm

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Norm, fuel lines, especially those not open to view, are not a place to be experimenting - and I sure don't like the idea of copper in a wet area. Just run SAE J1527 Type A1 line to the filter and enjoy worry-free boating.

Tim

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Copper does not resist corrosion very well.

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Hi Norm. My 1986 revenge had copper fuel lines that ran from the tank through the bulkhead into the fish box, through the fish box, then out another bulkhead into the starboard sump. I don't know who rigged the boat - Whaler or dealer - but apparently copper was acceptable and seemed to hold up fine for 22 years. However, when I replaced the lines last year, it was much simpler to just remove the copper and run all new rubber lines continuous without any fittings all the way from the tank to the fuel filters. There is a thread on CW somewhere from about 14 months ago where I made the inquiry if you want to do some more research.

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Preface: I'm thinking of corrosion as the physical wearing away of the metal, not as the formation of an oxide layer, which tends to protect metals from corrosion.

The inside of the tubing should virtually never corrode since it will never be exposed to ionic solutions (water, for example). The outside will form a protective oxide layer and last for a hundred years, unless you polish it! Copper alloys are highly resistant to corrosion, especially in dry air. The parts that are submerged in seawater will corrode faster and might only last 30 or 40 years, assuming you flush the area once in awhile with fresh water and store it dry.

There's a wealth of info on corrosion of copper alloys out there. I would be more concerned about physical stresses. For example, if you anchored the tubing to the hull and to the separator, but then isolated the separator from the hull, you might get engine vibration transmitted from the hull to the tubing to the fitting where the tubing hits the separator. That might be a stress point. (You'll never see a hard line connected directly from the engine to the frame of a car. You see a short piece of soft line to protect from vibration, torque, etc.)

But really, why not "rubber" fuel line? It's cheaper and easier to use.

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I read that copper will become brittle if subjected to vibrational stresses. The context of the discussion was fuel lines in a car. Probably much less of an issue in a boat but it's something to keep in mind and research further.

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I appreciate everyones responce.

Why copper? I knew I had seen it on older boats, but like I said, those were on boats that are not normally subjected to occasional dunkings in either rain or on the very rare occasion salt water. My other concern is of course Ethynol in the fuel we are using. I've seen first hand what it can do to rubber fuel lines.

Thanks again,

Norm

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If your considering copper, why not stainless steel? Stainless is used on brake lines on trailers that are dunked in salt water on a regular basis. I restored a 1970 Dodge Challenger and used stainless brake and fuel lines.

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Hey Harley,


How is stainless to work with? I've used my flairing kit with copper for numerous projects over the years. Is stainless flaired or do they use furrels? Where would I find it and what is the cost compared to copper. I picked up a coil of 3/8 copper and all the fittings I'd need yesterday. It ran me $36.00. That's enough material to run the duel fuel lines back to my Racor filter/water seperator. From there I'll use normal fuel hose with the primer bulbs.

Thanks,

Norm

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Hi Norm, when I installed the SS on my car it was prebent and flared. I would guess, with the right tools, it can be managed. Here are some manufactures:

http://www.classictube.com/

http://www.eagletube.com/
http://www.mmtubing.com/