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Hello Guys,

I took the time today to work exclusively on my preferred project.I took the console off and came to the conclusion that it never did have a grab rail installed due to the fact that is doesn't have the fastener holes that would have been there if included.
I carefully removed it and placed it up front.You will notice the carefully laid wires to the starboard side.

Take a look at My Girls Refit Project Gallery Album

Now if your eye follows the wires and can see close to the starboard bow side a DRAIN that is plugged. I've tried to vacuum it, put a wire through it and didn't get it to exit.
I wonder where this thing drains?Have you ever seen anything like this before?

now at the bottom of the wire tunnel entry point I have seen another drain that again seems to be going in a mysterious direction..Does that look familiar to you?
I am wondering if those entry point for water could possibly be draining in the gas tank cavity berth?
(Removed dead link to photo)
"The jig is up" I have carefully removed the seal surrounding the gas tank hatch and all stainless fasteners.I've left a bit of skin on that nonslip surface until I got wise enough to put a rag below my hands when forcing the sealant out.I was pleasantly surprised to see that the tank had been recently replaced with a new unit and that the top hatch cover was also replaced and in perfect condition.
The foam surrounding the tank is saturated with fresh water, and yes I did taste it to be sure.So the fluid had to come from topside.
I am wondering about taking the tank out next to be sure all water is removed.Those drains are really on my mind as I have the nasty suspicion that they may be draining in the tank cavity..I am studying on how to proceed at both starboard drains solutions as there doesn't seem to be any point of entry to have a look and see unless I was to cut the deck where they are located.Where do they drain? Have you been there before? :o
http://img410.imageshack.us/img410/24...319gf3.jpg

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Wow,
This is obviously quite the puzzler as a lot of you guys are looking but no one has any answers as yet..
I have crawled through those orifices again and yes they are drains without brass rings atop.I can clearly see a factory installed (how else) 90' copper elbow pointing toward the stern area.By chance someone may have this "option" on their decks for the 1975 models..:@

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Monday Jul 21,
Today was a reasonably good day.
I worked at removing the minimal amount of foam surrounding the gas tank.At first I used a two inch wide metal putty knife and cut to the dept of the blade the foam around the fiberglass rectangular structure housing the tank.Next I used a small 1.5' cut off saw and carefully made my way again on the outer perimeter of the glass enclosure.I then carefully cut the foam against the metal structure of the tank itself.
Next I removed the foam two inches at a time with a larger flat head screwdriver.I did leave the stern section alone as it was too hard to get at.
I then put a visegrip on the protruding welded metal tab midship to the unit and reefed.T he tank came out effortlessly and was removed from the berth.
The sheet of soft underlay was next removed to see about 1.5 gal of water just laying there.The rectangular figerglass berth was found to be sound and TOTALLY independently sealed from the rest of the boat sections. A welcomed sight.
I have made some headway in solving my two starboard deck drains as I found them to be connected by an underdeck tunnel. More on that later.

Serge.
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/83...325ga4.jpg

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Serge, its looking good -

I pulled my console today and took a picture for you... here is what mine looks like - as you can see - no hole.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47...081632.jpg

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You are right Scott,
Thank you for having taken the trouble to look on my behalf..

I have figured out that someone with some know how of the under deck configuration (factory or not) did install these two drains.
I have proven last night after a lot of digging with a stiff coat hanger and my shop vac that these two orifices were connected by an under deck tunnel.
I have put the vacuum hose to the one and got suction to the other. Ahem!!
After having squinted for a moment or two, I've figured out that the theory in this installation is;
When water does swamp the bow/front deck section, this drain will channel water from the front section through the underdeck??? tunnel and exit this water into the splash well cable entry to the round conduct that leads strenwise.
The question for me is.
Is this under deck front tunnel waterproof?
Is there a possibility that water can or has seeped from there and lower sections?
Has anyone opened up these front starboard decking areas before and seen the configurations of materials?
I had an eye opener upon being contacted by a very fine shipwright having done some work on these models..I have not heard from him again..We can view his experiences at http://www.hatterasgear.com/73outrage.html .Wish that he was around to give me a look and see.
More to come later.
Serge.:|

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Check out Rob's (blue_northern) thread on low profile outrage conversion - he has his whole floor up right now...

Robs Outrage thread

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Hello Scott,
Thanks a bunch for thinking of me and my ongoing questions..
From what I could see from the vantage point of the open deck photo, the "tunnel" joining my two drains goes underneath the exposed area from Rob's decking..It seems to possibly go underneath the plywood section seen at left by the well.Hummm..
I sense that I am getting closer to the answer.
Thanks again Scott.;)
Serge.

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Serge,

I got your PM and will be glad to help the best I can. I do not have a drain in either of the locations you have in the front or under the console. That is all new to me. The most intriguing part of yours is that there is no access to the area under the deck without cutting it up. That should result in some type of cosmetic scar around the area. Anytime you have an opening through the hull surface it is capable of allowing water into the boat. I must say I have looked a quite a few of these models and yours is the first to have this "option".

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Hello Rob,

Yes, You are right,
I have found this drain installations to be very intriguing indeed.
I have had a good long look at your ongoing restoration and am pleased that you are "doing it right".
I wonder if ; since you have the decking removed on your project, You could carefully ascertain as to what lay beneath the plywood board just ahead of the cable splash well..
I have a feeling that there may be a tunnel of some sort. I think that someone had to be pretty well versed in the blueprinting ( and probably had them)of these sections in order to install the drains.My point is; prior to closing these holes, I would like to have a pretty good idea that no water had gone below..I wish that I was there looking at your unit with the decking off.Would you know what lays beneath the exposed section?Without going at with a chainsaw that is.:o
More tomorrow.

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Thursday the 24th July.
Another good day as I did manage to do a bit more on my project.
The gas tank was dried and inspected.This replacement tank was installed about ten years ago The bare aluminum showed some a certain amount of pitting but nothing more then 20% of thickness..
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/39...327mk5.jpg

I did give it two coats of primer and four coats of good "signal red"marine enamel that I had left over from previous projects. I can say that I will always smile when thinking at my tank below deck painted with my lucky color..

http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/8610...331rn2.jpg

After carefully inspecting the stern I could see that the bottom drain plug hole inside wooden structure was permanently wet..I did cleaned up and soaked the blackish residue with a rag and cleaned the hole with a round steel brush from my tool crib.
The wetness kept coming back and seeping on the inside wood..
I decided to drill a pilot hole on the center of the stern live bait well and was glad to see dry white foam from the 1/2" bit.
I then fished a length of clear tubing coupled to my shop vac .Nothing at first but when hitting the bottom of the lower glass, I began to see water been sucked out but only intermittently..
I then decided to drill another hole at the bottom on the keel as far back as safely possible. Drips but no steady flow of water showing.
http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/21...328uu5.jpg
To assess the extent of the water invasion, I did cut out a 14" square floor section out
of the aft gas tank berth section and was rewarded with the fact that this area's foam is absolutely bone dry and pristine white.Except for the brown resin atop of it that is.
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/86...330aa4.jpg
I did slice a small square piece of foam to the bottom to assess any degree of water content and was happy to see total dryness..Makes this kind of intrusion very worth while one way or the other when you really think about it doesn't it?
I am happy to say that I have refiberglassed the section to my satisfaction today.
On to the next challenge.

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Keep up the great work Serge! Glad to see you foam looks so good!

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Thank's Scott,

I'm keeping a very close eye on Rob's and Your projects.
After all, don't we all have the same models?

Back to work.

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Friday July 25 08.
The floor section on the tank berth has been re fiberglassed to my satisfaction.
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/32...332lc2.jpg

After having measured six cups of water from drippings in the past three days, I decided to fully assess the extent of the water logged foam areas.
The logic being that where there is that amount of water dripping theres bound to be more somewhere.
The next step was to trace the cutting path with my fateful thin disc cutting blade.
http://img523.imageshack.us/img523/42...333qq1.jpg
The glass section was easily taken out and was found to be somehow cracked to the right. I will be re enforcing this area with glass.
After removing the panel I was again pleasantly surprised to find the foam mostly dried and unsaturated.I removed an eight by eight section to the glass and waited to see what was to be next.
http://img95.imageshack.us/img95/7258...334ji3.jpg
I did sliced in the foam as you would in a cake to see the degree of saturation. As you can see not a heck of a lot there.
http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/90...335np1.jpg
Fifteen minutes gone by in grinding the sides of the cut out piece, I came back to the stern to see some water oozing from the right side of the exposed foam area.I brought my attention to the right side of the stern and assessed to water to be coming from the transom itself..on the right side that is.
I did inspect every fastener and decided that all will be resealed just to be on the safe side. I zeroed on the aft starboard side and gathered that most of the intrusion had to be coming from this "wound".It will be carefully repaired.
http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/44...336sd5.jpg
I have as you can see already dremelled some of the spider cracks from my transom.This will also be addressed in due time.
A very good day.

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You are really moving on your project - at this rate by the time I get back from Florida you will be done!

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There is hundred of work hours to be done on this unit.
It just happen that I am on vacation and that I am having fun working on her.
A note of caution tough, grinding off gel coat is a messy business.Not to be attempted without proper safety equipment.The dust is pretty hard on the eyes if not completely covered by goggles.
I am debating on what to do with the decking.The molded non slip on the tank cover is an issue that will have to be addressed.Too many nooks and crannies.I am looking.Plenty to work on. I did picked up the bow railings from Joe.He will be shipping them next week..
Have a great Vacation.;)

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A very busy week end,
First off, It is good to see that no more water ie seen dripping from the stern area.
Nothing is showing up oozing out of the glass/foam exposed sections.
I have also addressed the gaping wound on the starboard stern section
http://img254.imageshack.us/img254/27...337xi9.jpg
It is still to be finished today.
The port section had to be seriously worked on today as previous repairs involved some glass spacer having been set in place between the cap and the hull and fastened with screws..I think that I used most of my cutting tools for this one.Had to go from the inside cap areas..
http://img384.imageshack.us/img384/80...338ew7.jpg
I have also as you can see sanded down some stern sections with a DA sander with an 80 grit paper.
More to come later.:)

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Serge - I worked on mine this weekend also. I looked at the area you had mentioned in front of the cable port and there is nothing but foam in mine. I have no idea how you got a drain fixture in yours. ???? Keep the info and pics coming as Scott and I are following your progress.

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Tuesday July 29th.
An interesting day as I worked with a truly cloudy condition hoping that it would not turn to rain..I was lucky enough to be able to progress a bit more.
http://img253.imageshack.us/img253/19...341tx9.jpg
I did some cosmetic touch ups to the starboard stern area.I am not totally displeased with the results.I filled several holes dotting the transom and did more sanding to the area.It is to be noted that since I did isolate any rain water from getting to the repaired area; the exposed fish box area has been bone dry..All cubic slices of foam were neatly replaced in the right order and generously dabbed with a top layer of resin before resetting the panel in place.
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/71...340mq7.jpg
The area was carefully resealed using cloth and several layers of resin.I was also glad to re enforce the cracked section before reassembling.
http://img518.imageshack.us/img518/60...339cs8.jpg
While this was setting, I did concentrate in phase one for the port stern section.
I repositioned the aluminum bracket holding the cap to the hull and reglassed the joining sections.Tomorrow if the weather holds, should see this section been dressed up and ready for the eventual gel coating.

Later.;)

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Sunday, Aug 3
I was sanding the cap again today and the glass is mostly sound.
I came upon one of the reasons as to why my unit is showing vertical stress cracks on both gunwale sides.
http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/9620/olympusphotos345nt9.jpg
I did found that at the forward quarter bow section on each sides, the plywood inner inlay had a junction to the next front pieces and had through time become some how loose; thus allowing a certain amount of "flex" to the quarter bow section.This unsupported flex being absorbed by the gunwale cap sections showed to have it's toll on the gellcoat structures.Hey, maybe just one of the factors involved here but, what the hay; made it worthy of mention anyway.
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/5159/olympusphotos347hd0.jpg
I did dremelled the cracks and filled them with resin and vinyl ester 3M filler.
I am presently re fiberglassing the front under gunwale sections with cloth and resin.
The port stern section repairs are being addressed with the same resin and 48 hrs later the 3M filler.
http://img162.imageshack.us/img162/4769/olympusphotos349tc2.jpg
While these sections are settling I have been sanding my starboard section to a nice mat finish.:)
I will thank all of you guys for helping me with you advices and positive remarks.Thanks for the valuable inputs!B)

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Looking great Serge! Check my post out - I did update it with a few things I did before I left... As you know Im away for 3 weeks but do have Internet access.... I will be keeping track of your progress... so no slacking!!!

The areas you have dremelled out.... when you fill them and sand them do they feel smooth? I would think you have to get them perfectly level or it will show through the new Gel or Awlgrip.

Keep up the strong work my friend!

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Actually, Scott,
In the study of those stress cracks, I came to realize that they were caused by a certain amount of play in the gunwale/bow sections.
After an initial refiberglassing of the two plywood junctions on each side of my bow area, I did see that the port side plywood was loose having come adrift of the underside gunwale section.
I understand now that without proper support the flexing of the hull under load will leave tell tale signs such as these stress cracks.
Now What I have done to remedy this situation is;
Dremelled out under great scrutiny the depth of said fractures.It was found that 99% of them went as far as the green. Thus needing to be drilled to such dept.
Talk about feeling like a dentist...But working for myself.
My solution was to make a clean furrow following the stress line and stop at the end of such fissure.
Next over a lapse of time, CLEAN THEM WITH ACETONE and fill a preliminary light coat with polyester resin (to the green)and hand sand smooth.Finish off with the Vinylester 3M Marine filler and sand smooth again.
This may seem like a lot of work but yes it is well worth it.
Next , on to the bow and port section.

More later;)

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Aug 19th.

It's been a very busy week spent sanding, fairing and getting the cap ready for priming.
The top section done , I paid attention to the two bow section storage and locker areas.
It was also a good time for inspecting and resealing the bow through hull drain system.
I was pleased to see that the heavy duty brass fittings were in excellent shape. Polished and resealed, it just looked like new.
Late last night before turning in,I gave a first coat of Duratec polyester surfacing primer and was very pleased with the results this morning.
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/4245/olympusphotos412iu0.jpg
I can see that I will be doing some more fairing and sanding before giving it a second coat. The Duratec is a nice product to work with. It will help me in making this refit something to be happy with.
http://img246.imageshack.us/img246/3196/olympusphotos414ab3.jpg
I will be hand sanding and shaping before giving it a second coat today.
More later.;)

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Serge,your progress is impressive and well done ! I love following your thread,it makes me want to seek out another project as the winters are long and I don't forsee much to do on my boat. I suffer from the need to work on Whalers, keeps me out of trouble.......ah I'm searchin now!:D

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Looking great Serge! My 3 weeks away are really giving you a boost over me! Watch out - I will be home next week!

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Yes well had to come in because of the rain.

I think that I will have to break down and get the new big tent garage out of its box and put it up..

Nice to hear from you Jim. How is your old girl doing? If looking for a new project I think that if the hull is in decent shape the rest can be well restored..Love that photo by the Statue of Liberty.
Hope that your vacation is a soothing one Scott.It is true that after having viewed RV with Robin Williams,some of our thoughts were with you.Please don't rush..There is always a lot of sanding to do you know..

Thinking well of you guys.:)

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Aug 20th.
Clouds and misty showers are seen overhead.
I have sanded and faired some imperfections.
As in a makeover, there is no such thing as too much time spent at the beauty parlor for an older lady...
http://img56.imageshack.us/img56/2627/olympusphotos415wr1.jpg
The duratec primer has helped a great deal in showing where the imperfections are.
I have filled, faired and sanded with the best quality products available.
Now is the time to use light marine filling compound with a two minute setting time.To top it as a last touch up I have used a polymer glazing putty that takes care of the last fillings.
The temperature permitting, I will be laying a second coat of primer today.
More later,

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Friday 22nd.

There she'd be me lads,
After three coats of Duratec surfacing primer "perfect for plug finishing and hiding repairs".
Plenty of cosmetic repairs and hand sanding after every coats.
I just scuffed and flew over every inches of the cap with a 100 grit.
No block was used as too many curves and varied shapes.I bended the sheet in half vertically, tore it in half and with each pieces folded it in four and sanded away.
http://img385.imageshack.us/img385/8393/olympusphotos421bi7.jpg
I had great advices from a fine gentleman named John Gabriel out of Florida.B)
He has an excellent course video @ www.boatrepairvideos.com
He is very talkable and ALWAYS available to give good advices.by phone or email.
One of the good guys.
If all goes well I should be gel coating Saturday.

More later:p

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Your progress continues to amaze me. So you are going to Gelcoat this weekend? Thats great! Are you applying yourself? I assume yes based on what I have seen so far. Best of luck laying the Gel!

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Serg, would like some info on the Duratec surfacing primer. Is it specifically designed for fiberglass? Does it come in colors other than dark grey?

rich

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Hey guys,

Nice to see that you are back home Jim.
One thing to do before gelling the cap will be to wet sand the entire surface with a 220 grit..I think that even though it is calling for rain, I will be getting some of it done.
I am also in the process of laying a granite floor in my ensuite.
Hey after all, I am on vacation and get to do whatever I want to do..
The gell will be applied by me this week weather permitting.

For Rich, You will find all infos about Duratec products . www.duratec1.com
I have talked to Steve or Ruben at www.fibreglast.com 1-800-330-6368 about ordering the products.I did find mine locally for reduced costs.
It also comes in white but the grey was the only color available locally.

More later;)

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Wed 27th Aug.
The granite floor looks pretty good and I am doing some grouting this evening.

More importantly, my pet project has come along a bit more.

I am extremely pleased with my "High Gloss/ Spectrum combination for the gel coating of the cap.

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/6903/olympusphotos426vx5.jpg

This is the result of four coats applied carefully and with very controlled painting.
I did enjoy the way it layed very much like thick High quality paint.


I am planning to give it a last coat tomorrow.
I have the option to use Styrene wax additive to the last coat or not..as this product does not require the wax. if the painted structure is above the water line.Well see...
What is there not to like? High gloss after application, minimum orange peeling effect and a forgiving nature..

I hope that the sun will shine again tomorrow.B)

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Looking great Serge! Are you putting it on with a sprayer, brush or roller?

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Serge - That looks great! Are you going to come back and sand the gel-coat? In every case I have seen the labor on the gel-coat process is sanding down the orange peel left after spraying. Yours appears to be really flat to others I have seen. I am also going to shoot my outrage with Spectrum products. I hope to get mine to lay down like yours did. WOW :o

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Hey Scott and Rob,
Hope that you are both doing well.

Well this work detail was not an easy one really..
The thing is, the amount of prep work put in this type of refit will be directly proportional to the results at the end.
After all who would like to cover up a surface with fresh gel when you can see underneath a number of uneven surfaces..
So a lot of filling with quality products and sanding afterward. This repeated until it looks right..
To cover these repaired surface one could gamble and apply fresh gel right away.
I felt compelled to cover the cap with a high quality primer and sprayed the grey Duratec..just to be sure.
Now you will get similar results guys using a 60/40 Duratec clear high gloss gel coat additive and gel coat.Spectrum is what I used as it was great quality and already colored from the factory.The drawback is that it is pricey. As much for a quart as you would pay for a gallon of good quality white somewhere else like Fibreglass.com
Yes there will be some sanding, but as you can see; reduced to a minimum.
If you can practice with your HVLP gun on a piece of plywood and get the hang of it, you will be able to do this job.
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/466/olympusphotos428yu9.jpg
This is a photo of the starboard bow section, unsanded and just after the last sprayed coat.You will notice the natural gloss of the surface.
I have used about a gallon of additive and three quarts of gel for this job.
For more details I can be reached at my home number guys.
It's all good:)

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Did you use the Duratec in the Gel-Coat? I had read about that before and seen a few people use it -- my understanding is that it gives you a higher gloss as well as being a useful thinning agent.

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Yes, That is right.
Fibreglass has a ten percent sale on right now until tomorrow.
I think that I will be ordering a couple more gallons of the stuff.
I still have the floor to redo and to refresh the hull wouldn't hurt either.
I would recommend it Rob.;)

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So you were mixing 60% Duratec to 40% Spectrum Gel-coat? I am still learning about Gel-coat -- Does it require a hardening agent? If yes did you get that from Spectrum as well?

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I have just sent you a private message.

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Got it but have to run. I will be back in the office and try to call you before I head to the coast tomorrow.

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Serge, Any chance you could post a reply too? Great question, I'm always interested in learning more about gel and its application. Thanks!

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I'd like to know more about the application also

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All right Rob, I will be here.

Yes Dave,This "solution" to renewing your Whaler appearance does involve a three part mix.The clear gel coat additive,the gel coat of your choice and the usual MEKP hardener which will set your gel. This is a Polyester resin mix totally familiar with your traditional structures.:)
You can purchase the gel resin of your choice or go with Spectrum with a very closely matched color to your needs.I did find their products to be of excellent quality and if you are doing specific areas of repairs, that is the way that I would go.
If on the other hand you are planning a whole structure re gel, you may consider acquiring a premium quality local gel, have it tinted to your specification at your favorite paint store and with the clear gel coat additive redo your areas.The fact is the whole area will be redone and all color matching.The clear gel is traditionally a 1/1 ratio but I did enjoy a 55 to 60% ratio better.
The MEKP will be proportional to the whole volume of the quantity.
I like to remind myself when working with precise quantities; when in doubt leave it out or ...wait to make sure.;)

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Hardener for the "whole" quantity? I would have been trying to figure that on out.

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Friday Aug 29th.

Just got in from giving the last coat of gel to the cap.
This is the completion of phase 1.
I can honestly say that I am not totally displeased with the results.
http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/6226/olympusphotos439gr3.jpg
I have thoroughly cleaned and blown dry every inches of the surfaces to be sprayed prior to giving the last coat.
I have elected not to use the Styrene wax even though I had it on hand. I will keep it for phase three..The Hull.
http://img507.imageshack.us/img507/2763/olympusphotos445jj7.jpg
I am showing a view of both sides to tell the tale of the complete (already) glossiness of the worked areas.
I think that the sanding and buffing will be much easier.
I will be welcoming your comments and inquiries.:P

I have talked with Jim and enjoyed my short call with him today.Nice to hear some of the news from the Atlantic side.
More later;)

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Serge - I was looking at your cap and noticed that the inside is completely different than mine - Did you cut it to remove the pockets or did it come that way?

Mine looks like this.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1973%20Boston%20Whaler%2019%20Outrage/S6001167.jpg

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Scott,

You have a good eye for details, it is a different style of gunwale lip sections.

As you can see my model has a 3 1/2" inboard lip that border the inside of the cap.

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/photoalbum_3/useralbum_13/classicconsole_t1.jpg[/img]

I had some issue about having the reinforcement under the lip coming unfastened here and there.For this, I used a two part epoxy clear formula to correct this problem.I also did find out the hard way that I should have been wearing my respirator even for a not so smelly epoxy application..
Similar to your model, I have a thin slat of teak bordering the edges. You can see that mine curves down all the way to the floor.
To remedy what I am perceiving to be excessive flex due to lack of structural strength ,I am planning to beef up the edge of the lip by installing on both sides a large 3 1/2" border of Mahogany curving all the way to the deck.
I am also considering putting a similar wood garnishing atop of the gunwales for similar reasons.
The deck looked weather beaten in this way when I took possession of the hull, and this from having sat for a long while at a boat yard.
My girl sat for a good spell waiting to be sold.My next phase will be to revamp the decking.

http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/3334/olympusphotos317rf4.jpg
In the photo that you sent I can see your unit number up front on the starboard side.Too far to read clearly but still noticeable.
My number is at the same location but on the port side.I have included a photo and you can see that this model is 000771.
I would be curious to have a data on where would be the preceding and following hull numbers be.
Are the hulls still active?
The reason being;
to know how many of those hull are actually left, and to assess their true value..
More later.

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Serge - Your project just amazes me. I am doing mine alone and seems to take forever. You are making huge strides in completing your boat. I am back in town and want to talk gel-coat application. I will drop you a PM in the next few days and we can try to get in touch. Very COOL! B)

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Mine is hull number 109 - Mfg in Nov of 1972 - According to Whaler its a 72 but my title reads 73


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/sraab928/1973%20Boston%20Whaler%2019%20Outrage/0904081633.jpg

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Hello Rob,

You are very kind in your comments and I thank You for them.
The thing is, I had two months vacation time.B)
and had a grand time beautifying my whaler.
It will be my pleasure to chat with you soon and help you if I may; with advices about your ongoing project.
What brings us all together here is the basic same classic 70's hulls possessions. I don't mind helping you and Scott for these reasons.:D
Heck I get more fun chatting with you guys then chatting with some of my relatives, bless their little hearts..;)

Serge.

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You guys are driving be crazy. I want a 19 Outrage project.

Serge,

The boat is coming along very nicely! Can not wait to see it when finished.

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Jeff there is one quite reasonable priced in Rhode Island - there has been some talk of it here..... I could be convinced to go look at it if you really want another project..... Just remember what you are getting into....which I know you do...lol


Serge - What year is your Outrage? - I thought it was a 74 but now I am not sure.

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Serge - It is nice having some other guys working on the same type of rig.

Scott - I think Serge said his hull was a 1975. Mine is right between yours and his on the production line. Title says a 1973 and Chuck Bennett told me it was originally shipped in Feb of 1973 to Baton Rouge, Louisiana.

I am going to get out there this weekend (If I do NOT end up going fishing) and get some work done on her.

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My 19 Outrage is a 1975.
I had to do plenty of detective work to get the correct Whaler numbers.
What was always in plain sight on the port front fender.was,
000771...the only identification number to see..
I did retrace this history of this boat and even had a few interesting chats with Chuck Bennet at the Whaler plant.
I did find him to be genuine, helpful and well versed.
I have fond memories and a certain measure of respect for the help he gave me to locate a new rub rail.
He did looked for me in the archives and matched my number to a Boston Whaler registration number.
My "tag" is most likely under the large stainless steel transom plate that My Girl came equipped with.
Since then I have heard rumors that things may have gotten quite a bit more complicated for the Whaler staff and workers...
Anyway I was told that my unit was made "At the Old Massachusetts Whaler plant"
Whews! Good thing that I didn't have to spell Mississippi.:D

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Gotta love Chuck....

This was his response to my number -

"According to Whaler's records, serial number 000109 was built in our old Norwell, MA factory as a 19 Whaler and was originally shipped out to a Boyer's Marine, Inc. out of Ocean City, NJ on 11/14/72.
This boat had one of the first 19' models with a 12 digit hull identification number (started in November of 1972). According to the HIN it is a 1972. "

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Well - I got nothing done this weekend. Got home Friday after work and the wife said I should go to the coast with a friend of ours who was feeling down. Now what type of husband would I be if I didn't do as I was told? Fished all weekend and came home Saturday afternoon. Oh well, maybe next weekend. :D

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Your friend probably would have felt better if he came to your place, and helped you with your Whaler. Its impossible to feel down when your working on a boat.

rich

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That is very true,
I truly think that all the hours spent in sheer pleasure working on the boat will be added to your respective life spans
and I hope that I will not live to regret these words..But seriously;
I did get back to work and am putting in ten hour days.
Days off tomorrow and I will be starting to work on the decking sections.
I will be starting by my usual thorough vacuuming of the flooring sections.
I am planning to start from the forward locker section and start sanding down with 80 grit in a sternwise direction.
Now I have a small question, to you well learned folks.
There is a type of U shaped garniture molding bordering the forward locker bottom edge and the deck so to speak..
Have yo ever renew this edging with a new one?
It is mostly intact but for a damaged smaller part of it.

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Serge - Are you talking about under the forward locker lid? I am trying to place that on my boat and can't seem to get the part you are talking about. Here is a picture of my forward locker area -- do you see what you are talking about on mine?

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Hey Rob,
The part that I am mentioning is bordering the bottom of the cap that you removed just ahead of your hatch cover.
What specific part are you looking for?
http://img382.imageshack.us/img382/236/olympusphotos453yi0.jpg

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Sept 10th.
I did some prep work on the deck and had my cap/deck issue running in the back of my mind for solutions.
Some of you guys asked for a better view of the u shaped plastic material.
I am happy to oblige.The dark shadow is the taped area that was primed with the Duratec grey primer..
http://img380.imageshack.us/img380/7996/olympusphotos455yu9.jpg
On this one I may ;
1- leave as is
2- remove and replace with new material
3-remove and anchor the parts together.
I will study the integrity of the parts as I would hate to hear some friction noises from the area when hitting big weathers.
I was pleased to receive some Whaler parts from California.Thank You Andy for trowing in your compass for free.
A great compass and a Teak live bait well hatch cover.
http://img50.imageshack.us/img50/1671/olympusphotos454ra2.jpg
The cover fits like a glove:D
I will look forward to re varnishing in time all my teak parts.B)

More later.

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I recently bought 1975 model year hull #750, manufactured in Oct 1974, probably the best condition example of this model in the world. It's all original, one owner, stored indoors, unused for 25 years with only 150 freshwater hours of total use on it before then. It needs no restoration work, except for the red rubrail insert replacement, which was vandalized by someone during storage. Original gelcoat is still glossy, even the bottom with no paint does not have a mark on it. It was stored on a keel roller trailer, which I now have for sale. Also selling the twin Johnson 70's power, since they are mis-matched in year, but otherwise practically brand new.

An 83 year old client sold it to me, who bought it new in Northern WI, then barely used it, then packed it away.

Since the boat is factory original, un-modified, I can answer any questions you guys may have.

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Hello Finnegan,

It is truly unfortunate that you are living so far.
I would have presently jumped in the Tahoe and drove directly to have a look.
I am nevertheless interested to hear and see more of this unit.
Photos If you do have them?
My EMAil is ritzy@oberon.ark.com

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Ritzy - I am surprised you have not ordered a length of the special order red rubrail insert for your boat. You should! See Whaler Parts for Sale section.

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Yes Finnegan,
I was made aware of this a while back.
My unit had a black one on and Chuck Bennet help me acquire a new replacement for me.A black one.
If not I would have been on this one like cold on Ice.

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Finnegan - If you do not mind us asking -- what did you have to invest to buy her? I looked at several that claimed to be original owner nice boats but they were quite expensive and not as represented.

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I'd rather not talk price, but I will say that I am not a "fixer-upper special" type person. Most of my Whalers have been purchased new. I believe you really can't pay too much for a used classic Whaler if you want a showpiece boat, like I do. The HUGE amount of time and money involved in restoring a "beater" is just not worth it, and most don't have the skills needed to do it right, including myself. Finding orignal resoration parts can be time consuming or impossible, and then, when you are all done, you still have a boat with a bad history, where a potential buyer has to take a flyer on how good the hidden restoration work was, decreasing it's value.
For example, a painted hull, as beautiful as it may look, tells you the boat was in bad shape at one time. No thanks.

99% of the people on the web will disagree with me, and refuse to pay top dollar for an all original, non-restored, super well kept Whaler, but I think that's the best deal you can get, if you can find one. You have to be prepared to move FAST. I am not talking about great boats that just need cosmetic cleaning and polishing, and teak re-finishing. Those can be a great find also, and fun to clean up.

The other thing that I think destroys the value of a classic Whaler is a bunch of "home-made" and "home designed" changes, or a bunch of aftermarket components. Unless the person has exceptional design skills, they only have value to the person that does them, nobody else.

Keep your Whalers "classic and original".

As for this 19 Outrage I bought (which I need like a hole in the head), I had a chance to see it first, and fully check it out. Remember, he is client, and we have insured this boat since it was bougth new, so I knew it's history (or lack of history!). Underneath 28 years of accumulated dirt, it was a new boat, and basically just needed a bath. The owner knew what he wanted, and I paid it, no beating him up on price, just like he does with me, when I send him a bill for his insurance.

---

Well,
I think that your unit may prove to be a great source of original classic details when called upon.
So what's next Finnegan?
Since having admitted that you have little use for the older lady, What are your intentions?
Spit and polish or profit?

---

I have to agree with Larry that a true OEM Original showroom Whaler can be "Worth it's weight in gold." There is nothing like having a prefect Whaler that looks like it did from the factory and there is nothing that needs to be done to it. Our Old Montauk was like that. A time piece, and I kick myself for letting that boat go outside of the family. I should have sold my 22 Outrage to keep it in the family. I kick myself daily for that. Everyone fawned over the boat and everyone always said it was a boat should be in Larry's fleet (especially with the tower of power on the stern). When I listed the boat for my father I can not tell you how many rude people I met. I was told I many many times through email and on the phone that I was @#%*'n crazy to think I would get 12.5k for a 22 year old Montauk and Motor no matter the condition. Also I was an @'hole for not considering offers. Whatever. The first person to look at the boat in person could not believe the condition and bought it right there for full asking price. He had looked at many trashed, miskept, and rough boats and knew when he saw our boat there was no question it was worth it.

---

I don't know how you guys find these treasures.... every classic I go look at ...well looks like what I have right now...lol.

I have asked Larry if he would part with her... but no such luck... As you say you really cant put a price on a new 1975 Whaler.

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Ritzy - Yes, my original intention was enjoy the satisfaction of owning a basically brand new 33 year old boat, and also have a new project, bringing it up to yacht quality will some of my "signature" improvements that I have done on my other Whalers. Then, I was thinking I might sell it. But as you know, these classic Whalers grow on you like a new Golden Receiver puppy, and quickly get to be part of the family......... So who knows what I will do with it.

As for finding a great old Whaler, I'm convinced it's just dumb luck, or at best being in the right place at the right time, or just happening to know the right person, which was my case with this 19. I am convinced that many of the best used Whalers never make it to the open market, being traded among friends and family. Four years ago I bought my ribside 21 from a complete stranger 1000 miles away, (who I now know to be a first class guy who accurately and honestly described the boat he was selling) while browsing ContinuousWave Marketplace on a Good Friday afternoon. I owned the boat at full asking price within 3 hours of the ad first appearing. Once again, just dumb luck that I was sitting at my computer at the time. If I had waited even a few more hours, someone else would have gotten the boat.

I"ll post a few photos when I get a chance.

---

Well,
Just got in and read your message Larry.

My first impression was to give your first message to the thread a double take.

I was at a bit of a loss to get the contributing point.. to the usual step by loving step in the works to make my latest project shine like new again.
You will fully understand having done this yourself that; not only will the results be positively rewarding but more importantly, all the careful steps done in a timely and loving manner will have a lasting learning curve here.
I can now share with you that when I did adopt My Girl for a sum that some may think a bit high in your locales; The best looking part of the boat was the hull.Now having progressed in the refit,I just realized after looking.. that it is now the worst looking part of the unit.Talk about progressing.
Now that's exciting.
What was unclear and now understood was your excitement at finding this true treasure..
This is a first for me as I had never heard of the possibility of a "mint" nineteen footer before.
What would be the stenciled number on the front port fender?
You must promise us all here to share some good photos.I for one can't wait to see them.

You have my sincere congratulations on your unique find.

---

Scott,

One thing that helps is location. Here in the Great Lakes you are able to find boats that have never seen salt and spend most of their lives under cover or in storage.

I have to say as cool as a perfect Whaler is I still enjoy projects and they both have their time and place. After working on my 22 Outrage I gained a lot of respect for those who take on a project boat. And a lot more respect for those who that take on a complete rebuild of a boat. I know that in the end there is more money invested on restoring a boat than if you had found a perfect boat in the beginning. That said, projects are a lot more about the journey and the self gratification.

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Jeff - you got it right. I know I will never see my money out of the outrage project. I am building the perfect boat for me and the experience is what I am enjoying. I have taken a broken down old girl and plan to have one of the finest examples of a restored Whaler you can find. There will be some tasteful modifications but at the end of the day it is my girl. I am returning life to a tired old unit and I think she will be kind to me for years to come.

Good Karma!

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Finnegan- Congrats on your recent find; I can see you are very proud of yourself. This is fantastic...I have heard of Whaler snobs, classic Whaler snobs, and now mint-condition classic Whaler snobs. Try not to look too far down your nose at us poor people piloting classics with a few dings in them. Remember, Outrages were made to fish, not to sit in a barn. I am only having fun, but you have to keep in mind that most people buy Boston Whalers to use and enjoy, not for show.

Once again, congratulations. She is beautiful.

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Hey Guys,

I am glad that some of you have picked up the slack on this one since I have been busy at work in mechanical repairs.
I will be carrying on with my favorite project as soon as I can.

PS-I think that those hulls new and older drives me bananas..;)

More later.

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Good Karma, I like that, well said Rob!

Keep up the good work guys, it's been great following all your progress...

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Glad to see that the door is open again.

I will be making some efforts in moving some photos around and also to create my personal page.

It is good to see all of you again.;)

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Serge,good to see the post from you, it's been awhile ! I understand your absence ! Lets all forget that and once again return to the fun of this site . I say lets make this off season enjoyable somehow for everyone , Jim

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Thanks Buddy,

Well Yes,
I am looking at putting on some electronics on My Girl as the existing electricals are vintage.
I will be looking for the usuals as in vhf/ gps and also an adequate breaker panel circuit board.
Rummaging through the bottom of discard boxes some of you may come across salvageable parts.
Give me a heads up.

Can You spell Bargain?:o

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Yes;
Back on the project again.
It is true that I have been busy at resurfacing the deckings for the last two weeks.
The attentive and conscientious dremelling have been done.
Filling and sanding to be faired and sanded again to prepare the surfaces for priming today.
Photos will be posted to my project place.
Now,
I wonder if Scott and Rob have managed to survive all the changes and new formatting effectuated to their pages???
Could this be the end of the three Amigos???

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The Three Amigos have moved.

1. Blue Northern (Rob)
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...er_id=6509

2. sraab923 (Scott) Scott has 2 Project Albums going.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...ser_id=838

3. ritzyrags (Serge) Has one album and NO descriptions for 90% of his photos.
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...er_id=9840
All photos need a description otherwise no one will know what a person is really doing or trying to explain what they are doing in the photo.

---

So far;
I have been adding comments but have seen them not permanently added to the photos.
Back to square one every time.

---

Are you using invisible ink?

Seems to work for the other members with Photo and Project Albums.

Are you clicking on the "Save" button.... ???

---

Well that reply has brought the first smile of the day here..
OK;
Let's see
I have gone to the first photo showing the stenciled number..
in the Current Photos section.
And pressed Edit;

This was the factory stencil number that got me to chat with Chuck Bennet for info about identifying the hull number AND the only one ownership;
Prior to my adoption of My Girl.

This is the comment that has been added, still remains posted there but has so far not showed with the photo.
It is all possible that I took a wrong turn somewhere.

---

That description shows up under the photo.

When I transferred some of your photos over, I also transferred over the descriptions that were there.
There were about 6 photos that I transferred over along with the descriptions.

The rest of the photos you uploaded do NOT have any descriptions.

All you need to do is click under the photo on the "Edit" button.
Add your description...
And then click on the "Save Photo" button.

Even though the photo is already there, you need to save the description which used the same button "Save Photo".....
Your description will then be saved along with the photo....

---

Thanks Joe,
I have done the "save photo" last step.
And did it one more time.
Hopefully the text will show up soon.

---

This is one of many that do not have a description yet.

Try it on this one.
"Scotts Cable Tunnel"
Right now the description reads: "Waiting for description from author"...
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...oto_id=733

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Yes;
I have clicked on the url and got to the photo AND comment posted.
I think that the problem will lie in the fact that when I go to the right under my Avatar and click on My Project Albums;
I will go to my album front page then to the next option showing all photos from the first page;
But to see all photos with titles but no writing beneath;
And this even though I will have tried to add photo after the few words of explanation have been entered.

---

Finally....
That wasn't so hard... Was it?

Now you only have about 30 more photos to add the description to.

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Yes,
Not that hard really;
I think that while my first coat of primer is drying that I had time to find out why this would not seem to work at first..
You see;
When I did go to my Avatar on the right and clicked on My Project Album;
The next window would take me to my project page..
I would then click on photo one for example and nothing would happen;
Unless I would click on Edit.
The usual box with my actual comments would then appear.
To be updated if desired.
But would not see the added text after save photo click option.
The only way that I have been able to see the comments with the photos was to go to Photo Gallery on the left,
Members Project Albums option and only then be able to view photo and text by clicking on them.
Took a bit of roaming to find it.
Should it not work like this on my Project Album listed on the right???

---

It has been a slice once again;
As I have again put in a full day here at my private rec facility.
A second and third coat of primer was sprayed on today.
The imperfections were spotted and filled with glazed putty prior to the second coat.
The customary sanding was also performed while the water bombers were circling the skies in preparation for landing and refueling.
Plenty of fires in our areas here lately.
I have posted a few photos to my Project album for showing of the natural progress of this refit.

---

I went back and added "Descriptions" to my P.P., I'm not exactly computer savy, and I'm "LOST" in the new world of Electronics, "High Def" TV and "Blue ray". Does anyone know where they still fix 8-track players ? I feel like my Father !

---

It was a most rewarding of days.
The first coat of gel was carefully applied Sunday and took it's sweet time to totally dry.
The fact that we have gone into the seventies instead of the one hundred plus degree Fahrenheit of last week must have a lot to do with it.
After having vacuumed all the decking, inspected and surveyed every inches of the surfaces;
A rewarding second coat was lovingly applied today.
Latex gloves,coveralls and respirator were constantly worn during all mixing and spraying sessions.
I was extremely pleased with the covering and capacity of the Isothalic Polyester gel chosen for this resurfacing.
The weather is showing a succession of cloud cover and sun in an ever ending pattern.
A bit of a sprinkle was even thrown in to complicate things..
I am very pleased with this second coat.

---

There is nothing like the sound of the surf;
As the only reply.
Calm and soothing after another good day of work.
The usual removal of all dust and foreign matter was performed today as a ritual and to get the "fix" on things.
After having inspected the covering of the second coat,It was found that numerous pin holes were still very apparent and just flying in the face of all the accomplished work done so far..
My favorite 3M glazing putty came to the scene and did what it does best.
After drying and sanding the detailing works;
It was found that three hours had already gone by.
The weather and temperature being perfect for it;
I did spray a third and very attentive coat today;
And I am not totally displeased with the results that are starting to show.
I did take the precaution of taping my stenciled number and BW affixed MODEL decal.
My project page will be showing visuals.

---

Keep up the strong work Serge. I visited my project today after its initial gelcoat application. It was weird because the boat had a flat sheen to it. Takes a bit of buffing to bring out the nice shine.

---

Serge, i was trying to read your project page and was intrigued by the hole that you were having trouble finding out where it went. was this from the front hatch area?
john.

---

It is good to see that you are still having fun Scott.
I wonder if Rob has been working on his low pro lately...
A bit tired after having put in six continuous hours working on her today.
The fourth coat in on and I have used two gallons of material so far..
It is just as shiny as the third coat and will not be posting a photo.
There is no reason to.
I will be looking forward to seeing pictures of your girl with gel on her.
Keep up the good work.

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Hey John;

Yes, the mystery of the Starboard bow deck section drain...
This one had me going a bit nervous..
Until to the fact that I did figure the setup scheme.
The drain had been installed to join the section of the structure to an adjoining"outlet" located into the cable tunnel trench located under the console.
Scott was gracious enough to have removed his console;
Having the same model as I;
And to verify that his set up was different then mine.
Both orifices were connected by an under structured tunnel.
Both of these holes were properly filled and resurfaced.
The exact location of this pesky drain was all the way up on deck forward a bow on the Starboard side.
And just before the step up to the locker.

---

I have an Outrage and wanted to put a washdown system on-board. the logical place was in the forward bow locker and after talking to someone on WC i found out that the washdown was an option on my Whaler and that the wiring was already there for it. i pulled a plug off of a hold inside the bow locker and found nothing but foam. after probing i found the wires inside the foam. could you have the same thing, and be thinking that it is a drain? just a thougt. if you want to see mine, i think that i have a pix on my personal page.
you get the FedEx package yet?
john.

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I have an Outrage and wanted to put a washdown system on-board. the logical place was in the forward bow locker and after talking to someone on WC i found out that the washdown was an option on my Whaler and that the wiring was already there for it. i pulled a plug off of a hold inside the bow locker and found nothing but foam. after probing i found the wires inside the foam. could you have the same thing, and be thinking that it is a drain? just a thougt. if you want to see mine, i think that i have a pix on my personal page.
you get the FedEx package yet?
john.

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Hey Jorder,
No ,I don't think that it is the same type of installation.
On my hull the drains were installed with 90'copper unions, no wires or electricals to talk about.
Your metal pieces have not shown up yet.

---

Well;
Fourth and fifth coats were given on Thursday and Friday.
Today being the 15th and our anniversary;
I contended myself in works of plastic curtain removals and hand sanding of the lines created by the tapes and paints.
The gel has been drying nicely but not totally cured giving reason to sanding the odd little runs.
I am planning a last perfect coat as a wrap up for tomorrow.
I know that a lot of you;
Could have you being here;
Would have enjoyed to see the Phase one and two of this refit's looks.
The cap and the deck are looking rather shiny and new.
The console, tank cover,stern bench and very importantly hatch covers will be carefully addressed while the nonskid areas will be worked on.

---

It was my pleasure to spray a carefully laid last coat Sunday.
But first,I did scan inch by inch all surfaces and sanded the odd little run.Filled up the seemingly endless finding of pinholes with the glazing filler.
The meeting of the cap and decking abow was a carefully sanded area as spraying has been generously layed.. to close the gap but by doing so caused some wrinkling.
Monday morning saw me attending to the nonskid areas,
Which were isolated by double taping and attentively resurfaced.
I am not totally displeased with the results which will be viewed on my project page.

---

Lookin good Serge. When you sprayed your gelcoat and it dried did it have a flat matte like finish or did it shine? My OR has a flat finish now and requires wet sanding and buffing to bring out the shine. We used spectrum gelcoat.

---

The gel is being applied with a 2.5 orifice.
I have gone to a thicker Isothalic Polyester gel and have used Duratec as a lacquer thinner.
It will show shiny at first but in time will become flat.
Cuts down on the sanding though.
The Spectrum being a thinner but high quality product will also commanded a premium price.
Fire me some photos of this and that if you have the time.
Now after this small break;
Back to work..

---

Here are some links to the pics...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47...lcoat4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47...lcoat2.jpg

---

I did pull my grab rail from my parts locker to make the final adjustments to the console.
All other imperfections will be attended to prior to gel coating tomorrow.
The photos are doing you justice Scott.
I know that to have inverted the hull will have made for a better if total resurfacing.
I am pleased to see that all the poor repairs and serious pitting are a thing of the past.
I have noted that on your cap;
Drilled holes for rod holders are still there for reassembly.
My Girl never had rod holders installed and will show nothing but cleats AND a provision for a starboard stern light to the gunwales.
I have been keeping my eyes open for used holders though.
Did you solve the bow rail dilemma?
To put it back or not??
Check if your balsa wood in the bow is still integrally sound.

---

There will be no rails on my baby. Im also considering pop up cleats.

---

serge, those corner pieces show up yet? just checking to see if you think they will work for you. jorders.
john.

---

Well ;
I for one, will be looking at what you will want to share with us Scott.
Pop up cleats?
John Wayne might have been saying;
What ever do you mean Pilgrim???
And having kept an eye on things;
I can expect something good showing up eventually.
I know that you will be keeping an eye open for parts that we could both use on these examples of the finest Whalers ever built;
And salvaged from indifference.
And I will state that;
It is good to see that you have kept the resolve tow still invest in a great thing.
You are not alone,
I still got your six.

---

Hey Jorder,
I have been keeping a close eye on the mail deliveries;
And this while I was hard at working on my ongoing refit at home.
You know what they will be saying about the regular postage...
Just a bit slow sometimes.
You and I know very well that the aluminum pieces will be to fabricate some stern corners;
But who knows???
I hope that the mail attendants took it for what it was and not a part for the Wild Wild West Spider War machine bent on destruction!?!!???
All joking apart I still have been expecting your parts with positive anticipation Jorder
And I will personally notify you as soon as they have made it here.
I am sure that we will both be happy to see that they have finally made it here safely.
I have been toiling hard here;
And will be glad for the help of all MY FRIENDS when in need...

---

This is a pop up cleat.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/...sku=265689

The nice thing about them is you dont get your fishing lines caught on them.

---

You know what Scott?
I think that a smooth sided gunwale will be seen as a desired effect;
After all I already have the guard less bow on My Girl.
I think that I am seeing of the direction you are taking with this refit.
I will look forward to seeing of your progress.
What will you be doing with your existing cleats?

---

They are shot - and I was having a hard time finding direct replacements.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v47...081431.jpg

---

And A big thank you for the metal parts sent by Jorder.
I will be using them as a template to fabricate metal guards for my stern sections.
Photo posted on my project page.
The Idea is a sound one and I will recommend it to all Whaler owners.
Thanks again Maurice.

---

I know what you mean by looking for replacements.
My hull came equipped with the two stern ones;
That are still in good shape.
The rest of the gunwale saw three more black cleats per side being fastened.
Plastic will not be my first choice when putting all the gear back on when the time has come.
I also have kept my eyes open for rod holders.
We will have to see...
Final touches to all the deck's components will be done today.
Plastic will be hung to protect the cap and deck areas.
Sanding will be done to the hull's side and stern area.
Phase three will have officially begun.

---

Phase Three Has Officially Begun.

After having looked at the hull inch by inch;
I was very pleased to see that there is nothing major to be repaired.
Nicks onto the sharp edges of the Chines and a very low number of shallow scrapes have been carefully filled with my favorite vynilester filler.
I have already sanded about half of the hull's area;
And realized that phase three should be the most enjoyable part of this refit.
I have not been able to locate some Perko clam shell cover replacements for my two drain areas.
I may have to put the two beat up parts back on.

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Perko Clam Shells.......

http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=32

http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=52

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Thanks for the lead Joe.
Isn't it a wonder that a simple item like this one;
Chrome plated brass and costing about a quarter to produce will fetch close to thirty dollar at the counter here.
Anyway;
The trailer was carefully removed from under the hull today.
I had the help of my motor hydraulic jack and two six ton bottle jacks to jack up the stern.
Things were a bit more complicated due to a downgraded slope within the parking area.
Each corners of the stern were supported to about four feet of the ground.
And the bow had three cinder blocks with spacers holding the act together.
Two by four were positioned as stabilizers.
Not really needed but positioned just as insurance.
The jack lifting the bow facilitated the completed removal of the easy loader.
The empty trailer being move forward was felt as one heavy duty unit.

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Hey Guys;

Seems that lately your comments and questions have been getting to be less frequent.
I would hate for this thread to be turning into a monologue instead of a conversation.
The time may be of putting the last period into this great topic.
If no one cares to comment or show a bit of interest;
I will hate to waste my precious time and Joe's capacity on this site.
But as things have a way to go by;
Seems that I am the only one left...standing here.

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I have been paying attention Serge and I believe others have as well - The project album showing your updates have been inspiring. I must say I do miss the embedded images in a thread but I understand Joe's position. There is a way to imbed the album images in the thread to make it more interesting but its a little difficult and time consuming. Keep up the great work!

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Same here Serge, I've been following this thread as well as your project album. Enjoy reading your comments there on the process and seeing the boat progress in the pictures.

Was curious, when you did the surgery on the rear and extracted the foam to see how wet it was, when you reconstructed, what kind of foam did you use and how did you shape it so well to get it to look original?

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It is truly good to see that our passion for the Whaler hulls is still alive and well, guys.
I am still inclined to firmly believe that;
Most of us could be having a grand time talking about our favorite subjects, while refreshments are being served.
"Thank God for all the good things", as House would say.
The fact that we have lost the photo expression on our threads
was well..seen as loosing the photos but keeping the text in the TIME magazine.
The thing is;
We don't pay the bills for the site so.. there it is.
To go to the Project page but reading it in the Thread may seem a bit more complicated;
But that is the vehicle being offered and the service is free..
I am wondering at times if the refits will be sailing in the same waters one day.

I any event;
The day was long and grueling.
Sanding, filling, sanding in an endless succession until my eyes were pleased with the shapes of the surfaces.
My weapons of choice today were;
A DA 6" sander with 80 grit, 8by11 sandpaper sheets @ 100 grit and sponge sanding blocks in medium grit.
After seven straight hours of this TLC work the complete hull areas will be assessed as ready for resurfacing.
The photos to my Project page will be giving you a visual.
One important point to mention will be that at the very beginning of my thread;
I had removed all through hull brass drains due to the fact that my aft starboard unit had been proven to have disintegrating O Rings.
In order to affirm a seal from water,I did fiber-glassed the top side of the structure but will be reclaiming the opening when time to install fresh drains comes.
Dave,
The foam was sliced as an angel cake would have been;
And was found to be water stained BUT dry;
The carefully cut pieces were repositioned in the same order and glued before resealing the opening.
The two part foam compounds can be purchased and poured for refilling an area that has been vacated of it's wet foam.
Remember that the liquid will expand to 25 times it's liquid volume.
I am getting some extra gel delivered tomorrow afternoon.
I will keep you posted.

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Dont know if this will help but my guy is spraying a black sandable auto primer lightly before sanding - it really helps show the imperfections and keeps you from removing too much gel. Just a thought.

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Yes Scott;
I am familiar with this procedure.
A black lacquer can be thinly applied to show any and all imperfections within the surfaces.
That is why the grey primer will be so invaluable when the surfaces have been weathered.
Today was a bit trying.
My compressor's motor kept acting up by not starting up when pressure went below the settings.
I had to truly scramble to get it to recharge the pressure enough times to spray most of my sixteen ounces of gel before the liquid would set.
I did managed to spray about fifteen out of the total.
The gun was disassembled and cleaned.
The components of the compressor were disassembled and I trouble shooted the problem to be faulty windings upon being hot.
I will be obtaining a replacement tomorrow.
Now I did managed to spray most of the hull before this mishap.
What do you guys think of the color?
I will be taking honest opinions on this one.

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I really like the Desert Tan, excellent choice Serge!

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I love the tan - Thats why I picked it for mine as well.

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It is unanimous.

There is no way of denying that yesterday was a most frustrating day.
Took the compressor back to the C Tire store that it came from and tried to get them to honor the one year warranty.
I did get to jump through hoops and finally was told to phone the company 1-880 number to lodge my claim.
I did get to press a number of options but never got to talk to anyone alive.
It was suggested to leave a message ...
Anyway;
Bought a new compressor and got to lay a very nice full coat yesterday.
Saw the very odd dimple and will remedy to that with my glazing filler today.

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Sept 1st.

The hull had a full coat yesterday and today saw another coat being applied.
After having worked for my second year on this specific project;
I will have fully understood as to why boat repair businesses will charge between 80 and 130 dollars per hours for this kind of work.
I must say that the surfaces are looking more and more as factory newness.
The question remains for me;
With all the hours and materials being put into this refit;
How much would a hull like this one would be worth presently as face value???

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Unfortunately Serge I have to come to the conclusion that these hulls will never be worth (monetarily speaking) what we put into them. However having a new 70's 19 Outrage (so to speak) to me is priceless.

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Three last coats put on today.
The project looks right on schedule.
Last touch ups and quality control will be next.
There is really no end to such works when you are doing all the phases personally.
My point being made about value was;
As far as bare hull are concerned;
Motor and trailer will be a part of the final value;
BUT the hull itself has got to be something special to some of us here.
Problem could be that there is far too many boats for sale and that the market is loaded with great deals.
Hence the true value of seventies Whalers may be kind of lowballed.

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The latest photos look great Serge. Now the fun begins.... Wet sanding and polishing...

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Thanks for the appreciative words.
What was your recepy for sanding yours?

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We are using 1200 wet..... then right to a buffer with 3m super duty compound - then finnesse it...

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Yes;
The Spectrum is truly a refined product.
And with the recepy that I have used will have proven to give a true superior finish.
On the other hand I have used a harder type of gel for the hull and have seen a bit of orange peeling finish to the surfaces today.
I have given a last "beauty" coat today and have sternly given myself an eight out of ten.
The ten being brand new from factory, I will be optimistic in seeing the shine come after a bit of sanding.
Oh yea!
Did I mention that you were all invited to a sanding party being given by yours truly shortly and including barbecued wings and refreshments???

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great job Serge on your project i also had one going last winter i really enjoyed it even with the frushtrations that went along with the guys that promised things they couldnt keep..when im out crusing around all that stuff you just forget about here is a few pics of my project if interested http://s536.photobucket.com/albums/ff326/romd133/whaler%20project/

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The boat looks great with the new finish.

looking at your pictures I did notice a bit of a safety issue. The blocks you have under her should be turned over for strength. It was clear you took time to center the block but turned over the walls of the block bear all the weight. If you get just a tad off center the way you have the blocks they will pop. Just thought I would throw that out for folks to think about.

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That is a sweet and tidy refit Romdt.
I can appreciate of all the efforts that you invested in making your Outrage what it is today.
And yes;some of the guys will promise to help with services sometimes but you must understand that sometimes there may be problems with delivering.I would not give it a second thought.

It is good to see that you are looking at our safety in the materials and propping of this refit.
I actually thought of positioning the cinder blocks on the flat but did assess that this 1500 lbs hull's bow would have ample support with the arches supporting the front bow area.
I carefully assessed the structures to be sound.
The Roman aqueducts and the great cathedral cupolas are the everlasting and living proof of adequate support and to never underestimate the holding strength of the arch.
Having dealt with a heavier hull, I would have used large wooden round sections.
Thanks for your concern.
Well;
The gel has dried nicely and will keep on shrinking for a few days.
The areas being supported will be soon attended to and some sanding will be done.

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How many coats total of gel do you have on there now Serge?

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With my gel preparation;
Seven coats were applied..And the surfaces have pretty well lost it's typical smell by now.
The job looks great.
I will today see if I can move my supports and attend to the spots that were underneath.

---

I did some wet hand sanding today.
The console was sanded and feels like a baby's bum.
I will leave up to you to guess as how old is the "baby".
But never mind that now.
I was surprised as to how much of a peel residual different gels will produce.
The job of sanding will be taking me a bit of time but the results are well worth the efforts..of monotonous sanding.

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Sept 14 09.
The days are getting noticeably shorter.
Giving a critical eye to my working areas;
I did decided to start today by vacuuming all Hemlock shedding and all loose materials from my garden's greens.
Sort of give a clean and proper setting for the work that will be taking place.
The areas of the hull having been underneath the supports
were attended to prior to resurfacing.
Careful sanding was done.
Some minor fairing to redress some minor scratches was detailed by careful sanding.
When satisfied by touch and feel and a scrutiny sing visual;
A full twenty ounces of gel was carefully applied to the areas in well timed passes.
The keel sections were also rewarded with some attention.
Seems like there is really no end to the beautifying of a Charming Lady of this caliber.
We will have well understood as to the need to make it right and beautiful when it counts.
A clear insight into the billions spent yearly in the cosmetic and resurfacing industries.
Three hours were invested in this last touch ups.
Sanding will be done to the entire structures.
I prefer to think of it as a fun filled investment in polishing the areas;
To a shiny and attractive state.
I will then reward the surfaces with the Whaler decals, and some surprises in finishing touches.

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The pictures look great Serge. Also the blocks being corrected was a good call!

Keep on sanding....and sanding.... and sanding....

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Serge, your project looks great. One thing that i have wondered about since the beginning of your thread is how you can allocate so much time to this project. i wish that i had some time to do things like this.
john.

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It is the Gospelled Truth;
And this, that a lot of my friends will attest,
The Whaler factor is quite conveniently there to keep the mind and the capacity for interest well grounded.
For me working on my Whaler is what I will call Quality Time.
So instead of having gone abroad on my vacations for the past two summers;
I have spent;
From a time period spanning,from mid July to early September working at my favorite project;
And thus have put hundreds of hours doing what.. I like.
Some of my "sources" were bragging about their capacity to hire "cheap" labor available in their states to get the job done on budget.
This is obviously not the case here at Ritzyrags.
But let's be fair here..
I had to finish up my Dear Carol's en suite first, with all fresh amenities.
Pink granite flooring, imported carved precious wood and granite top sink cabinet, new tub, paint ,crown molding etc..
This is the only way that I could have gotten away with it.
Actually,I was actually going to wait for next Summer for starting on my phase three but did find that I had enough time to get #3 done.
I had not budget ted for it but did managed to get the work done.
A buddy named John Gabriel from Florida that is still doing refits and that is keeping in touch from time to time;
(This is how we met);
Has a very good DVD about repairing Gel
www.boatrepairvideos.com
(Forgive me for the blatant plug)
And from his recollection, this kind of re gel coating with the original Polyester resin materials was documented to have payed him up to the 12 Ks pay scale for the kind of refit that I have actually done;
And this with Polyester gels.
Seems like today he is more into spaying Emron into larger yacht's refits.
Gel is just too expensive and time consuming for the budgeted average guy.
So;
instead of suntanning or laying on the beaches;
I have found that to work on My Girl was truly enjoyable and soothing.
Sitting in my park setting in timely fashion has had a true way to recharge my batteries.
It is truly good to do what you want to do at the best of times.
I hope that this has helped into shedding light on things a bit.
Thanks to my Dear Carol and her patience with my "Folly"
Life has been much more bearable due to the Whaler Factor.

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Hey Serge, She's looking great! Had a Q about the 7 coats of gel... I'd read that you want to keep the total thickness to about 30 mil to keep it from cracking in the future as it tends to continue to shrink over time. Was this a factor with the product you used?

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Seems like we both like the word Factor here..

Well,
Let's not forget that there is already a very solid thickness of gel left over from the original manufacturing.
You see the polyester gel formula of the day at that time were chemically made to the best standards of their.. times.
And to have seen a vast amount, if not to say;
All of the models past, showing spider cracks;
And this especially within the caps and deck structures;
Has led me to believe that certain Poly formulas were more prone to fissures...then others.
I have yet to see a single spider crack due to shrinkage or heat on the whole span of my hull.
Compare it if you wish to nail polish used by Our Ladies.
Some will go brittle and flake;
But then again, some will last..well, a very long time without damage or loss of integrity.
The magic of better chemistry today.
To give a dry and finished product the power to sustain heat and flex will go a long way in making our boats so much more appealing.
So;
My aim was to use a chemically proven mix of Polyester resins and thinners to achieve this finish product.
And time will tell, of my accuracy of choices.
Let's not forget that sanding will be taking some of the gel's thickness down some.
The thirty mills measure may have been taken in regard to a "certain" quality product and set as a measure some time ago.
A minimum of thirty to a maximum of forty If I do recall properly.
Yes;
Well, To be duly reported as an interesting fact;
What about those stern areas on my project that got to see the "green" with just a couple of pass with my DA then?
The thickness of gell was vastly unequaled throughout the structure; thicker in places and thinner in others.
The causes for spider cracks will be seen as a coating that;
A- Could not flex with the material underneath
B-Could not sustain integrity with the expansion and retractions due to weather
C-As in concrete; kept hardening until brittleness and fissures appeared.
C-Did i not forget to mention the UV rays factor?
With a wee bit of research, you will be able to find the right formula for your needs.
Just read of my entries.
There may be something that would be of use to you.

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Thanks Serge. I've never shot gel but would like to at some point, so I'm always in the information gathering phase and find that first hand experience is always best to learn from.

You're correct, min of 30 and max of 40, which is why I asked about your 7 coats, made me curious. Nothing more.

How did you decide between the surfacing wax and PVA?

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You could use either or..
The formula that I used gave me the option of using neither.

---

It is just possibly the time that I will have put this thread to bed for now.
A sizable amount of efforts were put forward on this fun project this summer;
And I have also responded in advises and comments to some of you Whaler re fitters out there.

I must give thanks to all the Good Souls.. that had fun in corresponding and in making this subject into a concrete reality.
And having being there to share in the works and pleasure of the Whaler Name and Soul.
In the name of the Classic Banana Hull Owner's Group;
I will thank You.
I am positive that;
There will be more to come later.

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Serge, it sounds to me like you are beginning a sabatacle from your project. i have enjoyed your corrospondance along the way. you obviously have a lot of knowledge about how to go about doing you project. i will keep a watchful eye on your future threads.
i have to ask just one question. the photo that you use for your personal page is somewhat bizzare. what are you wearing?

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Necromonger's finest...

http://www.legionxxiv.org/riddick.htmiddick.htm

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Looking good Serge. Just checked out your Personal Page, the boat is coming along nicely!

If your dog is anything like mine, that Golden is going to enjoy cruising around on your "new" boat with you in the near future.

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Jorders,

Nice to hear you again.
Yes, I is true that life as it is will be for the most part filled with challenges.
And a refit of that amplitude is a project that will take time, patience and for some strange reason, be a lot of fun.
She is wrapped for the winter but the search for parts continues.
I am still looking for a set of louvered bow locker doors, diverse gunwale rigging ,Teak and Mahogany to make her truly shine;
And all this again in the aim of doing the Classic Whaler Heritage Justice..
What's in a name? You may say.
The answer has been vulgarized by the coin phrase"Brand Loyalty"
Inspiration. will be seen as the right medium here.
Never a dull moment and plenty to think about.. what will be done next...
High point will be seen as when Friends will volunteer to help and sometimes contribute with parts for the benefit of my refit.
That's what Whaler friends are all about.

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Thanks for bringing me this link Johnny.
Ideology..
A great example of the diversity of the Human Spirit.

---

Flippa;
Yes She most definitely is all girl;
All 75LBS of her,big for a female and again one of our resident animal family member here at Ritzyrags.
Plenty to still do on the boat.
Playful wonders, of what will be done with the Teaks and Mahoganies next..
I will still be here to give advise or input throughout the winter months.

---

How many gallons of gel coat did you end up using?

---

Let's see..
About ten gallons from my last recollection.

---

Ok, thanks. I planned on ordering five for my montauk.

---

Were you able to get your surfaces flat? Mine look wavy.

---

Four and a half bells and I have found myself busy with sanding orange peel today.
Went to a 220 grit with my DA but had to back off to a 150 to get a bit more bite.
White cover all,escape respirator, gloves and glasses will have me protected enough.
I am changing the paper pad often enough and it is progressing rather nicely.

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The rewards of the sanding have started to show and are a real pleasure to look and feel.My hand passed on the flat and mat surfaces passed on a notion of approval to the critical board.
I did have to improvise on getting the scene settings just right.
The overshadow from natural daylight on the hull sections begged to be addressed.
I did bring in my portable flood lights to give the surfaces a very clear and lighted view.
Due to the lack of draft control in managing the sanding by products,a small portable fan was put to work to keep my areas and body to a manageable level of mist.
What would have I done without electricity?

---

I found a dry guide coat helped me to see the sanding marks.

---

Yes,
Seems like I am doing the sanding over and over again.
I have used the dry guide coat on my initial sanding.
Sanding orange peel to the finished flat ad mat surface is time consuming and thankless detail.
Patience is the key here.
I did start on the bow structure and sanded and shaped the gel to my satisfaction.Every inch will have to be addressed again and again.
The work is going rather well.

---

Well it seems that due to the lack of responses and comments to this long thread
The option of stopping my reports on this long but pleasant refit has come to mind.
I will ask plainly;
Are you still interested in reading about all these steps involving repairs Folks?

---

Well, Sir I certainly am. So if you have "only helped the few of us with your knowledge you have helped many." (Hargrave 1906)

---

Ritzy,
You may not know how many of us are really interested in your project by replies, comments etc. Remember, we are all in the same boat, so to speak and anything you have discovered in your endeavor, no matter how insignificant it may seem to you, my prove to be invaluable to a fellow Whaler owner.

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I enjoy reading the work you have done on your boat. Looks like your project is coming a bit faster than my 19 Outrage that I'm working on. Its kinda of at a standstill right now and am waiting on a few things. Keep up with the posts.
Tony

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A Lack of comments does not imply a lack of interest.

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This info is priceless and I have been reading it from the start. Thanks for the updates.

---

Gents,
I am a bit relieved to see that some of you are still having fun watching me wrestling with this fun filled refit.
My take has been to mentally appreciate of the work already completed and NOT about the work that still remains.
I did carefully hand sand and detailed the main chines yesterday.
I did scrutinize the first sanding surfaces and saw that a finer grit will be needed to bring it to specs.
I am thinking of changing the name of my classic from "My Girl" to "Purgatory".
Thank you Fred for giving me a kind phone call and give me your appreciation.
I always like to hear from you in Kentucky.
If ever you want to pass your project on, Tony,
I would gladly carry on with your great works.
Thanks for the kind words all you guys.
I really do appreciate it.
Now ..Back to another exciting round of sanding.

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I think that I have been remiss in the fact that I did not mention that I have viewed Cliff's page and fell hard for his favorite "Lil Fish" Classic 13.
Nice work Cliff,
The Whaler has turned out to look better than the original.

---

Serge

Keep up the good work! I enjoy reading your reports!

Thor

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14,860 views as of this morning. Seems there is at least a little interest in this thread. I know I look forward to the next update.

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After attending to an adoption today,I was back under the mask and goggles to carry on with the load.
I did move to a 320 grit and went over the pre sanded surfaces and dealt with all imperfections.
Due to different thickness of gell from the get go on this specific hull
I made all hull surfaces smooth and ready.
A critical eye from the Chairman of the Board made me move to give the surfaces a last beauty coat.
This coat will be sanded with a 400 grit and will hopefully pass the quality control test.
The cap being next will be sanded from the get go with a 400 due to the much softer Spectrum gell initially sprayed in this phase.
The hull in this state never looked better.

---

That will teach me to be so picky..
I have Da sanded the entire cap for the very last detailing and did find that some areas were a bit shallow due to gel coat thickness.
I did hand sanded the entire shape and artfully give it an obscenely glossy last coat.
I will most likely obtain a Finesse It product and will be buffing with the lamb wool buffing pad in good time.
My renamed Whaler "Purgatory" has never looked so good.
I will thank you for the couple of generous offers to buy the Outrage from me at this time,
The obvious reason being
To see that this Thread being finally ended!
There is a bit more work to be done.

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I went from 320 to 600 with a DA sander. Then 1000 with a DA sander, 3M imperial with a direct drive buffer, them imperial if you want. It turned out great.

---

I do have some 600 grits ready to be used.
3M makes a fine line of products for this next polishing job.
Thanks for sharing with your success Modena
I do appreciate it.

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I board sanded with the 320. You have to be careful not to chase low spots though.

Way more work than I expected but it looked like new when I was done.

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The work has gone extremely well in the time spent on the gel surfaces.
A point to be remembered when doing this king of gell coating will be;
Upon the final sanding s and in preparation to using a cutting compound such as 3M Finesse It;
One will remember that the factory sprayed gell thickness WILL NOT BE OF AN EVEN DEGREE throughout the surfaces
And this as noted especially to the cap structures.
You will vision this as the way the start of a built was begun.
1-A separating agent was sprayed inside the mold.
2-Coats of Polyester Gel of various colors were sprayed with elapsed time between sprays.
3-After 5 to 10 coats? as a guess, Drying was timed and controlled with proper temperature and humidity.
4-Polyester resin was rolled thickly and sprayed in.
Fiberglass clothing was applied throughout the inside surface of the inner mold.
5-A predetermined amount of coats and cloth was applied and let set as a finished product.
6-The mold was then removed, leaving a smooth and shiny hull surface.Assembly of the two half hulls would follow making the Whaler hulls what we have come to like so much.

When redoing the surfaces by gell coating anew,
it will be very important to remember that to spray plenty of thickness will be preferred to the opposite.
The sanding efforts will be often going deep enough to show the original gell due to the high and low points from original designs.
The cap was thus lovingly crafted more than once.

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Keep up the great work Serge!!

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Would you ever gel coat a boat again, or would you paint? I did a console once, and would go with a paint, no question. The amount of time and energy in sanding is just overwhelming. I give you a lot of credit, your workmanship is fantastic.

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Thanks for the good words Guys..
In a detail like this one,
I was imagining at first, that the work would have been straight forward and reasonably quickly done.
I do remember contacting the Spectrum Co and ordering some gel resin in a desert tan and medium gray colors.
The first coats quickly used my few quarts priced at $100/Q.
I had to solve the $ issue in order to make this refit float..
Nevertheless this "just about completed" resurfacing did cost me a pretty penny and oodles of hours.
Just when I did think that the final sanding was at hand, some details would show through the gel warranting yet another coat.
I do remember having it done in it's entirety and ready to be buffed within the cap areas IE;
To see pale and dark shadows appearing within the gelled surfaces.
These Ghosts shapes would compel me into spraying an extra few coats in order to give enough depth..to the cap surfaces.
An area that was especially troublesome was the 90' bordering the cap and rubrail surface.
Sanding by hand with 220 folded sheets and by DA with #400 grit did the job in the end.
The left over traces were scrutinized under direct lights and dealt with a #600 grit.
3M Finesse It, applied with my Simonize buffer did show additional imperfections that were dealt with accordingly.
I do not regret any of the work done here
The difference between an Imron paint and Polyester Gel will be seen as in the finishing product.
The prep work will be the same for both
The end paint will be usually a two to three coats spray with a sealer/wax and buff.
The gell will be more laboriously finished as in orange peel and"crater" sandings.
Less finishing work with the paint but not an "Original" condition.
To directly answer your question,Walt,
I would have loved to have helping me an apprentice or two for the careful finishing details.
I would also would've been grateful to have an updraft booth instead of my cosy asphalt home parking
And this in regard to the sanding dust factor and also for the added capacity to keep working throughout the rainy months seen here in the Winter.
In hindsight,
The work involved here is not a simple patch or scuff repair,
It is a complete resurfacing..
A smaller craft as a 13' would have been ideal to refit in this manner and this just for the fact that it would have been easy to overturn and work on the hull unhindered.
On the next one I would consider both materials and apply on an individual basis.
The prep as in filling dremelling and making the surfaces "sound" will be an important detail.
Concentrate on the prepping and the finishing answer will be revealed to you in good time.
No one would like to see those cracks reappear.
Thanks again for the appreciation of my humble efforts.