Thread subject: Whaler Central - Boston Whaler Boat Information and Photos :: Moeller tank under RPS - Montauk
Posted by Lang Wilcox on 07/16/08 - 2:53 PM
#1
My first post but I have been reading for a couple of years.
I am in the early stages of changing my 1978 17' hull (originally rigged as a Katamah) to a Montauk. There is no sleeve under the RPS location on this hull, it is under where the console is to be located. How do I rig a fuel line to a fuel tank located under the RPS? Also I am planning on using the Moeller 26 gallon tank. Do you slide it back enough to allow access to the filler neck?
Posted by Grady95 on 07/16/08 - 3:41 PM
#2
Lang,
Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your boat. The rigging for the fuel line will require that you drill through the floor and down into the rigging tube. You will use this hole to feed the fuel line through and run it back to your motor. Here are a few photos to help you get an idea. Hope they help,
Grady
[IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd283/Grady952007/FuelTanketc003.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd283/Grady952007/FuelTanketc004.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd283/Grady952007/FuelTanketc011.jpg[/IMG]
Edited by Grady95 on 07/16/08 - 3:44 PM
Posted by Lang Wilcox on 07/16/08 - 4:25 PM
#3
Grady95
Thanks. Very helpful. I picture is worth a thousand words, you know. I am good to go.
Lang
Posted by Jeff on 07/16/08 - 5:12 PM
#4
Lang,
I believe it was Casco Bay Outrage (Phil) that put a brass thru hull fitting in for the fuel line and it look great as well.
Posted by Phil T on 07/16/08 - 6:57 PM
#5
On this one Jeff you are only 1/2 right. (probably the only time,ever :p ) It was on my boat but done by a prior owner.
Lang, if you do a search on my or Grady's user name, you can find the thread and detailed conversation. Think there are also some photos.
Posted by Jeff on 07/16/08 - 7:04 PM
#6
Phil,
I am wrong more than you think.
Here is the earlier thread your
referenced.
Posted by DaveS on 07/16/08 - 8:27 PM
#7
Looks like they answered the first part of your question pretty well. I always thought that solution was very clean. As for refueling, I had a very similar " problem with my Newtauk. When I first restored it, I was using a nylon strap to hold my fuel tank, a 20 gallon Moeller fuel tank. When it was time to refill, I slide it forward. When it was full, it was a little more difficult. I solved this problem by installing a hinge on the RPS. Worked great, all I needed to do was flip up the seat, remove the fuel cap and fill. Paying is the hardest part/
Posted by Grady95 on 07/17/08 - 5:24 AM
#8
Guys,
As placed, this installation allows direct fueling without tank removal. I had used the straps in order to make removing easier, but it turns out that that was not even needed. I had chosen the 20 gallon over the 26 in order to keep the profile down. Worked like a charm.
Just got back from a fishing trip in the thousand islands region of NY. Big tank or little tank, the cost of fresh caught fish, considering fuel as part of the equation is really starting to get prohibitive. I'm considering fishing now with a drag net instead of rod and reel. Just haul in some tonnage and get off the water! :(
Grady
Posted by Lang Wilcox on 07/17/08 - 5:40 AM
#9
This is all great stuff and very helpful as I had hoped it would be. Thanks for all the help.
Lang
Posted by egerrity on 07/17/08 - 8:10 AM
#10
As you can see in those pics that jeff posted the RPS is lifted on 3 inch spacers that make refueling and sitting alot better.
Posted by Grady95 on 07/18/08 - 4:56 AM
#12
egerrity wrote:
As you can see in those pics that jeff posted the RPS is lifted on 3 inch spacers that make refueling and sitting alot better.
Those are solid mahogany blocks cut on the bandsaw and finished to carry the shape of the RPS foot down to the floor. Due to their contact with water, they were sealed with two generous coats of West System 105 epoxy and sealed to the floor with Lifecaulk. A word of advice for this and any project using mahogany. This wood has a tendency to tear and break away when it is drilled at the point where the drill exits. These are very expensive pieces of wood and take a long time to make ready. It's a heartbreaker when the drill snaps a big chunk off. Been there, done that. Consider initially drilling a small pilot hole first then predrilling the exit point to relieve stress there. Raising the seat not only affords you with easier fueling, it also makes the seat more comfortable to sit on while underway. It's a nice upgrade, just take your time in the fabrication stage.
Best of luck,
Grady